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Discussion Starter #1
The other half's Clio is showing all the signs of a blown fuse - front and rear NS sidelights and number plate lights out - except both the 10A fuses that are live when the lights are on are intact. Every fuse in both fuse boxes tests OK, yet there is no 12V at the cluster connector. There's no corrosion in bulb holders, earth is good, all the other lights in the rear NS cluster work, except the side; bulbs are tested and good.

It seems to point to break/fault in the wiring, so I was trying to trace back the wiring from the fuse box. Given the number of connectors and fuses I was wondering if everything is wired from the top, or is there a loom underneath? I could not find a corresponding contact for the top side of the 10A fuse that's removed in this photo; any ideas?
185579

After packing everything away, it occurred to me that fuse might be for the OS sides; can anyone confirm if that fuse is NS or OS?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Have you removed the fuse?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, I'd removed that one whilst trying to check continuity and searching for the loom contact for fused end.
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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If I am reading left & right correctly the left side 10amp fuse (no 105) on the top row feeds the front & rear N/S sidelights plus a few other functions. Fuse 104 on its right feeds the equivalent O/S sidelights. Fuse 101 that is missing is listed as not in use. 105 feeds two wires in separate connectors out of the box, can identify if you need so if both front & rear N/S sidelights are out this points to an issue in the fuesbox. Try swopping 104 & 105, you may have a cracked fuse? Also inspect the fuse contacts as may not be tight to the fuse. Best Wyn
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Wyn. What source are your referring to there, Haynes? I have a Haynes manual, but it contains "Typical engine fuse/relay boy" diagram, which doesn't inspire total confidence, and it's LH/RH notation is ambiguous (probably clarified elsewhere in the manual). It does say that F101 is spare, though there was one inserted; I think I fixated on F101 as it was the first I found that was high with the side lights on, before I RFTM (not that I seem to have paid much attention to the manual).

All the fuses buzzed OK, but I will take a fresh look at F105 and its contacts in the box. Thanks again.
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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It is from an original pdf of the fuseboxes and connecting plugs etc. If you look on Ebay searching for Renault wiring diagrams there are a few selling this data which is copywright. Sadly Haynes wiring diagrams these days are a works of fiction. No plugs underneath the fusebox.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Went out and rechecked the fuses; all buzz OK with a continuity tester. Physically pulled F105 and the thing is wide open; put it back in and it still buzzes on the tester. I thought a continuity test across the exposed shoulders of the mini blade fuse was a universal test?

F101 is not spare, it has something to do with anti-theft; when it's out the steering is locked.

Anyhow, thank you both for your help, especially Wyn.
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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Clearly the pdf I'm looking at is fiction at least in parts as well. This is looking more serious from what I can make out from the schematic of the UPC innards. F105 sends 12v out to pin 5 second down on right side on AN plug which is the brown one to the left of the top row of fuses this goes to the front N/S sidelight and pin 5 bottom right on CN plug which is the large rectangular plug above left side of the top row of fuses.
F105 is fed from a built in relay activated by a CAN signal from the main UCH inside the car via the stalk switches.
If you can get the lights to work by feeding them direct by a probe onto the pins 05 on the two plugs then I think the built in relay could have failed as there is a duplicate built in relay & fuse 104 feeding the right side lights, pin 01 on AN and pin 04 on CN.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry Wyn, what I neglected to state in my earlier reply was that the lights worked once the blown fuse - F105 - was replaced!
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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So your issue is now solved then @b52M
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, thanks. Looking in the right place helped workaround the confusion caused by a blown fuse that passes a continuity test!
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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The bulbs are the worse..
You actually think you are losing the plot

Bloody cars LOL
 
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