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Cannot say categorically that it would cause the tyre wear but it is possible. Good thing they are very cheap so do both they can be an awkward little thing to do but I am sure you will be fine (patience and perseverance wins the day)
All the best
 

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Okay so a quick update the only thing I've found movement in is these (shown in the picture) the other side had a very slight but the one shown in the picture which is also the drivers side has quite a bit not sure this would make the noise i'm hearing? Lower ball joint seem fine with no really movment.
Is that stabilizer and rod connecting it to the shock absorber?

If yes, that will not cause tire wear. Clunk yes, but not tire wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Same part, different name.
Clunk yes, tire wear no.
Okay so still require replacing. Could it being off though pull the tracking out at all? I think if I do replace both side then a garage should fix the camber problem
 

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You still have to find out which part is causing tire wear.
When that will be dealt with, change this drop link too as suspension will be worked on, then to wheel alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
You still have to find out which part is causing tire wear.
When that will be dealt with, change this drop link too as suspension will be worked on, then to wheel alignment.
Yeah I mean I don't know how to fix that so I think it's going to be a garage for that I think
 

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Hello Ryan,
A couple of different problems here: The tracking needs sorting out, best go to a trusted garage for that, get the steering wheel straight and the front wheels aligned. The garage will pick up on any major suspension problem while they do that.
But often clunking over speed bumps can be anti-roll bar bushes or drop links. Best to check them before randomly replacing them.
Definitely a probable clunk cause. I have done one on a Clio mk3, but the Clio mk2 has completely different shape links.
 

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Point here is that there are only a couple of parts that can cause uneven tire wear.
Assuming you didn't bent anything by hitting the hole, these are: steering joints (inner and outer), ball joints at the arms and upper shock mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Point here is that there are only a couple of parts that can cause uneven tire wear.
Assuming you didn't bent anything by hitting the hole, these are: steering joints (inner and outer), ball joints at the arms and upper shock mount.
Well I've the lower ball joints for play and nothing I've changed the track rod ends on both sides. So there's only the upper shock mounts and possible the tie rods?
 

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Here I am not sure that we are talking about same parts.

For cheking: inner ball joint and track rod end
192388


After that ball joint at the arm and then upper shock absorber mount.
Tie rods can not be the cause for tire wear.
 

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Don't think the drop links would cause the tyre wear, but they do tend to clunk a bit on rough
roads, you can get them off on the drive but be carful it acts like a big spring, make sure the
car is secure and have a jack under the roll bar so it cant spring down,
If they are like the ones I did they have a nut on the bottom and the top is like a mushroom with
a alien key or torque drive in it, that goes right through and they tend to seize I ended up hacksawing
it top and bottom to get it off, and they are a bugger to get the new ones back on.
To be honest I have seen a lot worse ones than yours on cars.
Forgive it this as been said before, if your sure the bottom ball joints are ok have you tried the
attachment to the chassis at the other end of the wish bone?
failing that suspension top mount and shock absorber it's self if there's any side play were the rod
slides into the lower bit that would also cause tyre wear.
Make sure everything is safe and secure there a lot of weight and some bits that spring given
half the chance so be carful.
If it is the tracking that is out it would usually wear both tyres the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Don't think the drop links would cause the tyre wear, but they do tend to clunk a bit on rough
roads, you can get them off on the drive but be carful it acts like a big spring, make sure the
car is secure and have a jack under the roll bar so it cant spring down,
If they are like the ones I did they have a nut on the bottom and the top is like a mushroom with
a alien key or torque drive in it, that goes right through and they tend to seize I ended up hacksawing
it top and bottom to get it off, and they are a bugger to get the new ones back on.
To be honest I have seen a lot worse ones than yours on cars.
Forgive it this as been said before, if your sure the bottom ball joints are ok have you tried the
attachment to the chassis at the other end of the wish bone?
failing that suspension top mount and shock absorber it's self if there's any side play were the rod
slides into the lower bit that would also cause tyre wear.
Make sure everything is safe and secure there a lot of weight and some bits that spring given
half the chance so be carful.
If it is the tracking that is out it would usually wear both tyres the same.
I've had a poke around with the crow bar and the ball joints don't rock or move on either side I've also tried rocking the tyre with it off the ground with no clicking or movement at at all. The only thing I haven't checked is the top shock mount. I'm not 100% sure how to check these. As you can tell I'm only an amateur that's trying to find his way in somethings and try his hand in repairing something as it feels great when you achieve haha even if I've lost half my hair pulling it out coming across rusty bolts none stop haha
 

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Not necessarily.
Bad alignment can cause tire wear on only one side, outer or inner edge of the tire, depending on values.

If Cleme is sure that everything is OK and all parts of suspension are good, then alignment will tell the true story. Was it OK or was it off. After that, I would keep the old tires on the car for a while until it proves that uneven wear is over.
 

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Could it potentially cause that tyre where too and the pulling to the left that it was doing? I really hope it's this! I will most likely change both because the other one the rubber boot looks ruined. How easy would this be to change from working on the floor?
Look HERE
I can't stress enough the importance of the vehicle being safely jacked up and supported.
Bounce and rock the car side to side and see if there is any difference between the way the top of the strut behaves in one side compared to the other?
Also have you checked the springs?
 

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I've had a poke around with the crow bar and the ball joints don't rock or move on either side I've also tried rocking the tyre with it off the ground with no clicking or movement at at all. The only thing I haven't checked is the top shock mount. I'm not 100% sure how to check these. As you can tell I'm only an amateur that's trying to find his way in somethings and try his hand in repairing something as it feels great when you achieve haha even if I've lost half my hair pulling it out coming across rusty bolts none stop haha
Inner ball joint has a play when faulty, just like the track rod ends do, and they also make clunk noise when bad. Shaking the wheel left to right should show that.

For shock mount check you would have to shake shock absorber strut. That shiny thing inside the spring. Don't know how much can you do as the best would be to raise the car and have wheels hanging in the air or taking the complete shock absorber down and then lean on the mount to prove it worn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Look HERE
I can't stress enough the importance of the vehicle being safely jacked up and supported.
Bounce and rock the car side to side and see if there is any difference between the way the top of the strut behaves in one side compared to the other?
Also have you checked the springs?
Definitely I will make sure safety is first and foremost. Thank you for the link! Looks so easy.... but it's missing like Ralph said the trouble you run into with seized bolts. Haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Inner ball joint has a play when faulty, just like the track rod ends do, and they also make clunk noise when bad. Shaking the wheel left to right should show that.

For shock mount check you would have to shake shock absorber strut. That shiny thing inside the spring. Don't know how much can you do as the best would be to raise the car and have wheels hanging in the air or taking the complete shock absorber down and then lean on the mount to prove it worn.
Great thank you! Like I said I've changed the track rod end ball joints already not the inner tie rods though. I'll check the struts tomorrow then. Thanks again!
 
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