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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Y reg Megane, my music (at half volume, almost flatline bass and treble) has blown 2 sets of speakers and recently, my 3rd set of tweeters.

Now, as I am not electronically up to speed on cars, I can't install the tweeters I got with my current (not-yet-blown) speakers and so I need ones that can be put into the same as usual. However, I do not want the same standard set of tweeters that I have been having to get.

So my question is... can I take the tweeters from one of the other models, such as the Clio, Laguna, Scenic etc, and install them in my Megane? And if yes, are they of the same quality?

Thanks & regards,
Z
 

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Is it an after market HU?

It is blowing all speakers or just fronts, rears, left or rights?

Have you taken the door card off incase it's water ingress?

What are the HU x-over points set to?
 

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all standard Renault tweeters are crap!! :(

just add in an aftermarket set of tweets, make sure they have inline crossovers though... or you'll kill em in a matter of days.

i have my standard Laguna 2 ones here though if you wanna stick to original equipment, you can have em for the price of postage...


pics of the original tweets & locations will be handy as mine will obviously be oriented differently to yours.


ive replace ALL speakers & tweets front to back with aftermarket offerings, & the sound is immense!! :d
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
iv been told the standard wiring is [email protected] tho !
You are absolutely correct, the wiring has these sort of connectors on the ends, I found some low-cost adapters which just click into the ends and then slide onto the speakers like in a normal car, check the rather overly bright photo!

This is one of the (blown) stock tweeters, showing the connector:


Here's the replacement stock tweeters in the dash (which has blown):


One of the speakers I've replaced the stocks with (dry as a bone in there):


This is one of the connection adapters so no cutting has to be done:


This is the tweeters that came with the speakers, inc wires, but no idea on what goes where or what to cut etc:
 

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That factory tweeter has a capacitor on board so the wiring going to it can be assumed to carry fullrange audio signal. Put a tweeter in there without a crossover and it'll be dead within minutes.
I'd expect the signal at the midbass to be fullrange: the natural roll off of the speaker is used in cheap car systems as a low pass filter.

If I were you I'd put those crossovers near to the headunit wired directly to the speaker outs on the headunit and then run new wires from the crossover to each speaker. Alternately, if you can get access to the midbass speaker wires near the A pillar then hook them up to the crossover there and run wires from there up to the tweeters.
 

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That factory tweeter has a capacitor on board so the wiring going to it can be assumed to carry fullrange audio signal. Put a tweeter in there without a crossover and it'll be dead within minutes.
I'd expect the signal at the midbass to be fullrange: the natural roll off of the speaker is used in cheap car systems as a low pass filter.

If I were you I'd put those crossovers near to the headunit wired directly to the speaker outs on the headunit and then run new wires from the crossover to each speaker. Alternately, if you can get access to the midbass speaker wires near the A pillar then hook them up to the crossover there and run wires from there up to the tweeters.
hmm....... that's what i'd of liked to have done with my Vibe blackair comps b/c my crossovers are quite large, the problem on the Laguna 2 is the tweets on the dash & the front door drivers are connected to the same run on the ISO block (2 front channels).... the split happens somewhere behind the dash....

then (as you say) the tweet crossover is attached to the unit itself...

attaching the crossovers @ the the HU end (in my case anyway) will mean the door drivers being subjected to the same HPF as the tweets... im sure this is done b/c the HU only has 4 channels, not 6.??

running new cables requires removal of the dash.... to much hassle!!

in order to get around this i had to ditch my blackair crossovers, buy a new (Alpine) set of tweets with tiny inline crossovers that fit into the existing tweeter holes.

the wiring is terrible.....lol (IMO its probably fine for 25wrms, any more & you'll need new cable), there's also no clear way to determine pos & neg.... im my car the cables in the rear are all brown & the front is green & brown..??? so not too sure if speakers are in phase..

obviously this is only really relevant to my model.... but some other Renaults may be configured the same..

i need to get my front end amplified, but committing to the task is something im not looking forward to.




:d
 

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Auckland, New Zealand
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Surely there's an easy way of running a wire from the tweeter down through the dash (or down the side of the A pillar to pedal level then round the back of the pedals).

To test phase, disconnect tweeters (cos I'm not sure they'll like the test), then get a 9v battery and attach it briefly across the speaker wires at the headunit end. If the cone moves out then you've got the positive battery to positive speaker. Similar to this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIMHGkxw72o

Tweeters can be phase checked by ear. Fade to front and right. Listen for height of soundstage. Flip tweeter phase and recheck. Correct phase is when stage is highest. Then repeat for left front.

PM me your email, I'll do some digging and see if I've got a phase testing mp3
 

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Surely there's an easy way of running a wire from the tweeter down through the dash (or down the side of the A pillar to pedal level then round the back of the pedals).

To test phase, disconnect tweeters (cos I'm not sure they'll like the test), then get a 9v battery and attach it briefly across the speaker wires at the headunit end. If the cone moves out then you've got the positive battery to positive speaker. Similar to this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIMHGkxw72o

Tweeters can be phase checked by ear. Fade to front and right. Listen for height of soundstage. Flip tweeter phase and recheck. Correct phase is when stage is highest. Then repeat for left front.

PM me your email, I'll do some digging and see if I've got a phase testing mp3

thanks for the help rogan........ address PM'd



there's no easy way to rewire the tweets without the dash coming out (or just running as new cable up the door jam & having a little of it on show as it enters the aperture...


here's what im know thinking ... i have a set of fusion PP 5'' drivers in the rear doors, capable of some 70wrms....

if i run a 3rd amp (other 2 for sub) to the boot (2 chan), disconnect the rear doors from HU outputs & run 2 cables from boot to rear doors..??

this will give my rear fill (mid bass) a boost (say 50wrms) & also free's up a little more power for the front (blackair comps) to deliver the high end frequencies..

this way i avoid having to rewire the front dash.....


:d
 

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Based on the home cinema and the computer speaker systems, the concept of stripping off the bass and even mid-range to a central speaker, and just using the peripheral speakers for treble and stereo imaging can be quite effective.
This would mean that you are not trying to push high levels of (bass) power down the wires to the door speakers, and so the low-power wiring in the Renault harnesses works OK for that.
You can then put the higher power bass speakers in place in a box, etc, where convenient, and just chose (3-way) speakers to fit in the normal locations.
The power handling and matching for the (3-way) speakers protects the tweeters for the rated power, and gives a sensation of sound from all around, and the grunt of the bass lines spreads all around the car from the boot.
I found that most effect for my Clio; the 100mm locations in the dash and parcel shelf supports weren't up to what I wanted, so I mixed in tweets into the dash surface, added 150mm 3-way to the door, and 200mm 3-way to the solid wooden parcel shelf.
But then I could run the wires wherever I wanted, since the first stage of dashboard work was to take off the top surface (five screws) and so reveal all the dash-board cable runs.
 
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