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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Good Evening everyone.



We are at the end of our tether with the evidently common problem we have with our 2006 Laguna 11 1.9 Dci 130

For some time we have been getting intermittent lights on the dashboard, either 'Check emissions' or 'check injection'. Our local Renault garage here in France did diagnostics a few months ago, which did not find an injector problem, and they used injector cleaner, which seemed to do the trick. However, a few weeks ago we had the 'check emissions' light come on again (although the car was running perfectly at that time) Our local independent garage cleaned the EGR valve, which did not make the emissions light go out. We decided to get the EGR valve blanked off altogether. Then the 'check injection' light came back on! This time, when starting from cold the engine runs perfectly for the first couple of kilometres, no smoke, smooth running, great acceleration. Then as soon as the normal operating temperature is reached, like clockwork the 'check injection' light comes back on and the car goes into limp mode soon afterwards. We had the injectors checked at the independent garage, and the mechanic found there is very little back leak, slightly more on number 2 than the other three, but nothing to indicate why the car goes into limp mode. The mechanic said he did not think there was a faulty injector, considering the car starts and runs normally, and doesn't smoke.

After reading on the forum about buzzing or humming sensors, we decided to listen under the bonnet when the injection light was on, and we could hear a high-pitched humming type of noise coming from the sensor on the photo, which goes on for half a minute or so after the engine is turned off. When this is disconnected the noise stops. As we have the 130 bhp version, it is apparently different from photos we have looked at on the forum. Today we decided to drive the car with this sensor disconnected, which made no apparent difference to the car, and it still went into limp mode. Like everyone else on the forum with the same or similar problems, we don't want to spend money on something that won't fix the fault.



This is the type of engine we have, the sensor in question is to the right hand side of the middle of the engine, and towards the back. We would be grateful for any help/comments. I hope the photo urls work!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Why didn't I see that option the first time. DOH! I have attached one of the engine as a whole, as from looking through lots of info on this great forum, I became aware that the Laguna 2 130 bhp has things in different places on the engine! I hope the photos open ok now.
 

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Looks like the EGR valve (Siemens type). If coked up inside the rotary motor cannot park itself during switch off hence the buzzing sound. time for a strip down and a clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Looks like the EGR valve (Siemens type). If coked up inside the rotary motor cannot park itself during switch off hence the buzzing sound. time for a strip down and a clean.
Is that the second photo you are looking at - the electrical connector with the blue marks on? Is that the EGR? We actually had that cleaned a month ago, which didn't solve the problem, then we had it blanked off altogether, which stopped the 'Check Emissions' light but reverted back to the 'Check Injection' light.

:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Having just looked at a photo posted by MadNoel on another thread, the part that is buzzing on our version could be the turbo activating solenoid. (Difficult to say exactly, but the part looks very similar, but is in a different location on our 130 bhp engine) Could this be the offending part, causing the check injection/emissions light and putting the car into limp home mode once the engine reaches it's normal operating temperature? When it is disconnected, the buzzing stops, but it doesn't seem to make any difference driving with it disconnected, the car still goes into limp home mode. :confused:
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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The buzzing solonoid could either be a defective solonoid itself, or worse it could be a fault in the circuitry on one of the wires to/from the solonoid. You may do better consulting an auto-electrician to diagnose an electrical fault rather than a general mechanic, although the solonoid does activate mechanicl parts.
 
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