Ok I’ll look into that, it’s a bit of a pup!
It’s been handed to me as a challenge I think . Been leaking previously after new oil pump fitted, bolts missing fro sump replacement and no cam belt cover !
I haven't done that seal but no. Checking the manual, you can do it in situ or take off the sump and seal housing to do on the bench. There may be a spacer in between the seal and crank and I believe that it can be turned around if the seal has worn a groove in it.
There is a brand new crank pulley screw here on the desk and it's definitely right hand. Had to check it, can't trust the memory
You have to get crank pulley off, then crank sprocket off to change the seal
Its TDC engine,undo/remove crank bolt then pulley, remove belt slide sprocket off
Then pull seal out.
Fill the inner part of the seal where the spring fits with grease
Smear some clean engine oil on the crank, slide seal into place.
Degrease crank then rebuild..
Timing tool arrived and the timing attempted ,
Unfortunately not only does have a securing bracket that fits no 6mm hole , the timing slots will not line up , I assume that given the story that a mechanic before me WHO has been taking short cuts that the rear camshaft is a press fit cog and its been timed badly?
Can someone confirm this , the crank pin is in place I think , the slot behind the starter,
The front cam slot does align and beneath the line of the cylinder head, the thicker half of the halfmoon of the shaft on the lower side.
What 6 mil hole do you mean, The cams slots at the back , are these the slots you are referring to
Going to take the second question as yes..
If the engine was turned forward a touch more would they fit?
Remove the crank locking pin
THIS crank locking pin, can fit below the webbing on the crank, and you think you are in place
So try this ,
Take the spark plug out closest to the timing cover .
Now with a screwdriver place in inside where the plug was
As the engine turns, you will see this screwdriver move up or down.
Now as you are close to TDC, turning the engine slowly clockwise, you will see the screwdriver raise, when you have gone PAST TDC you will see the screwdriver go down , now turn the engine back slightly, until the screwdriver comes back up, but starts to drop again,
PUT your hand on the screwdriver handle, and turn the engine backwards and forwards in a rocking motion with your spanner on the crank, you Will feel TDC.
Now try your locking Pin for the crank,
IF its right the crank wont move back, or go forward,.
DONT get forcing with your spanner
NOW mark the crank to the timing cover..
See what your slots are like now,
Ok there is a bracket attached to secure the u shape in the slots , its supposed to attach to a convenient fixing , a convenient bolt hole about 6mm . But as have bought cheap , probably , its missing the extra luxury of covering all versions?
Yeah I have tried the forward , back , only slightly as it not a good thing and the lock wouldn't line up . I have done this without the crank locking pin in ,
Yes the screw driver is the next thing to confirm, I am just trying ask the above all this is if the rear camshaft is on a push fit tolerance , in other words , if the previous fitter has tried to fit a cambelt without a cam lock , this would be what I am finding now , out of line.
Thank you for replying I have done quite a few timing belts but this is new to me .
No the driven end , I’m know the slot end doesn’t change but the sprocket can as it’s pressed on to the shaft drive , that’s what I’m asking , in turn making the other where the lock plate fits wrongly sitting for synchronising with the inlet cam . I can’t believe you are not understanding me . At present the the cams are not synchronised. I am trying to lock everything at Tdc and remove and replace crank seal. All I’m saying is that the exhaust sprocket must be a tolerance fit and not keyed to be out at the slotted end .