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Discussion Starter #21
Belt removed and timing tool fitted , if new belt doesn't line up then Ill slacken sprockets to accommodate.

Any way the whole reason for doing all this i to find where exactly the sump oil coming from , the crank seal has been put in a little squint and presumably needs to be sat flush with its housing and not in 2mm further than the opposite end diagonally!
The main leak is from I would guess is from the rear of the pulley housing where it mates withe sump. The sump was off and replaced ,(apparently the oil pump was noisy , but I am doubting this as well) not by me I may add and it appears badly fitted with one bolt missing and two loose!
I am hoping to cure all this , we'll see!

Anyone had a 1.6 sump off , any tips appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Are you calling the rear camshaft where the slot is.
then no this is part of the camshaft, it wont come off

The mechanic who fitted it probably like me never used a tool to lock the camshafts,


If the engine was running ok before he fitted it, he would mark in his own special way and just fit the belt , and put the belt on exactly how the old came off..

We would have to have thousands of pounds worth of locking tools to cover all engines
One screwdriver, one bottle of tipex, and lots of drinks
"The mechanic who fitted it probably like me never used a tool to lock the camshafts"
Haha maybe should have as it was out!
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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How was it a non runner then?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ok Ineed to ask this of anyone on here,
New Cam belt on , camlock plate fitted, crank pin on crank web but once fitted the crank web has fallen back about 5mm off pin. The exhaust cam sprocket is slackened and the belt was still extremely tight to fit when I got to the idler pulley . Now I know I did this in a clockwise direction , which I know is probably the wrong way, however there is still a reasonable slackness between crank drive and exhaust pulley This can be taken up by the tensioner but as I say the crank is not up to the pin on the web .
Question is can the inlet vvt pulley be slackened off to allow all this to move into line. (Providing I manage to lock all movement) Does this pulley need to be free like the exhaust pulley Just off it’s shaft and not harm it’s mechanism
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Oh dear , well no one out there with help, bad timing I expect with everyone celebrating !
Didnt realizes there was a cap covering the main retaining bolt on the vvt pulley , or as some call it the de-phaser pulley , would that be right?
Ao everything isdone to the letter and what a job , everything has been turn over 4 times and no issues , I would question the tensioner pulley setting , it seems awful vague and quite a soft tension.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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crankpin DOES NOT GO UPTO THE WEBBING ,
it locks into the crank shaft webbing,,
 

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Discussion Starter #27
crankpin DOES NOT GO UPTO THE WEBBING ,
it locks into the crank shaft webbing,,
Not sure if you interpreted my meaning a few threads back , I probably worded it wrong , the locking pin is inserted through the block and the crankshaft web buts up to it .
not sure why-you mentioned that.
Any experiance of the make up on the tensioner, it maybe that the securing lug on it to the rear moves about a bit while lining the pointer , I found it’s bit tedious that’s all .
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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The crank shaft webbing does not butt up to it, there is an opening in the crankshaft for this locking pin to fit in
is the crank locked now..
Confused, you say the timing was out,
So was this a Non Runner, .? when you bought it ...
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The crank does butt up to the pin , you take a outside tork socket to remove a plug and the pin screws in there.
Yes when I went to align the camshaft lock plate the slots would not match the correct positions.The car was running but a timing belt was put on without slackening the cam pulleys.
The crank pin shown before it butts up.

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181595
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Have a look at the picture you have posted, now unless your locking pin has another part at the end, you see its located into something
In one of your posts crank web has fallen back about 5mm off pin.

Now look again at your posted picture HOW is this possible ..

So lets Assume mechanic did not use locking tools, how did the engine run ok then ..
Throwing this out here, because IF YOU get the crank moving after you have screwed in the locating pin, then something is adrift, 5 MM is enough that when you go to start the engine you can do damage..
Thats the reason I have asked , was it a runner, and is the crank pin located correctly..

Its too late once you turn that key, if something is not right..
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Ok well observed , I took this picture after I ran the timing belt round only to discover that the vvt pulley was rewinding the timing back , after aligning up the shafts with the plate in the slots . I loosened the inlet, (previous to this the exhaust sprocket was loosened ) and this allowed the crank to move round against the timing crank pin. (Unfortunately the timing locking kit did not have a camshaft sprocket kit to lock for loosening them, so I made my own ) . I then brought the marked spot on the inlet to 12 o’clock and the Renault logo also. I have tried to keep to the proper procedure . The timing belt has been refitted and going back to my original query #27 I was a bit wary of the weakness of the tensioner. It does all turn manually, so hopefully everything is correct . Bottom timing cover missing , so trying to find this after previous fitter hasn’t bothered to!
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Well done, these sprockets can be a nightmare to undo..
Not sure what you mean about the tensioner, some have a locating tab, some dont ..
And no idea without seeing a picture of tensioner, if no locking tab, then you should still be able to adjust it up to the marks..

So are you happy with everything timing wise now, or still not sure..
Seriously here, its bad enough on the nerves when turning that key/pressing the button, for the first time as it is..
But if unsure, check, as its to late afterwards
Just make sure the crank pulley bolt is tight,.
Thats enough to make you cry, do all the hard work, and forget to re check the crank pulley bolt is tight enough
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Oh yeah it’s tight!
I was worried, when torquing up, I actually changed wrenches to make sure I wasn’t going too far and clicked straight away!
I have turned it three or four times and no noises and cam plate and sprockets turn up the same place , but I know what You mean . I am dealing with a lot of bad history here , so trying to source a timing cover , a lower plastic one. Yeah the tensioner has a right angled lobe that fits into the casting on the block facing , but maybe the water pump facing plate , no matter , it has a fair bit of movement so in judging we’re the pointer fits for locking in place can be a bit vague. It must be better than the tensioner I took off which had the h pattern bent so the pointer never even enters the zone , bloudy nightmare!
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Is there not a pointer on your tensioner, this should align with the back , usually a cut out ..

Can you post a picture lets all have a look,,
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Yeah the pointer is in between the gap on my set up, but as I say it moved about a bit in its recess behind a bit. That’s why I said it was vague to try and find an average setting . The tensioner I took off to replace that , the gap setting point was bent , so obstructing the pointer of being in the right place. Nightmare!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well the car fired up and seems all right Phew! But for the engine management light coming on in idle and tries to disappear bringing revs up . I have not had time to diagnose but could be a camshaft sensor.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Shove diagnostics on it, if not sure what he fault codes mean.
Then LIST them in the order they appear , and we will have a look for you..
Would not play parts darts, expensive and seldom works..
 

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Discussion Starter #38
No problem , will let you know, the fact that the cam sprockets were out, was giving me the clue
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Ignore cam sprockets being out..
Car was running before with no lights on, so its something stupid..
 

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Discussion Starter #40
It maybe something stupid but I was handed a sensor as someone said it was , when I stripped it thought No 1 cyl was full of oil , so I’m thinking then , that would have faulted the warning light . As it happens the pending and stored faults were just that. Well I never got any further , there was another menu it wouldn’t open, as the battery was low I started the car again and checked for leaks !
NO!! the blasted car is still pissing oil again from much the same area, as far as I can tell not from the new sump gasket to the back of the crank pulley housing , but from within the housing to the rear of timing drive sprocket! Thats a new crank seal in there. ?
 
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