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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Engine stripped down again and timing driven sprocket Its very difficult to trace whether it crank seal , (newly replaced) or sump gasket ditto replaced.
So as everything has been splattered all over again by the belts , Im looking at the crank seal. A lot of oil has travelled down to the back via the timing belt to the crank aux pulley , and then thrown about from there. So there is not a lot of oil from the sump half moon area behind the crank pulley housing.I amthinking that if I replace the seal from the crankshaft and replace it with a smear of RTV then It might help. Then run everything from there.?

I will add that the previous sel that I originally replace was in a bit squint and previous marks were on the housing where someone had tried to remove the seal before that.
S i placed the new seal wth atouch of sealant on the bottom of the housing only where the damage occurred. This doesnt seemed to have helped looking at the leak, so thats why I am going to smear the whole seal with RTV.
Its just annoying that everything has to be refitted to find out if there is any success.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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No oil behind cam sprockets that you can see.
As much as oil will splash it wont get behind the sprockets if its off the belt, to the sides of the sprockets, but not behind
Was it RTV you used on the sump,
Very unlucky if this has failed,,


Did you fill crank seal with grease before fitting, the inner part.
and a smear of oil on the crankshaft aids fitting
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Yes , to your advice with seal , and a very small smear at the corner of the sump gasket where it joins the half moon rubber .
I will have a look at seals behind cam sprockets .
ive left the seal cleaned overnight to sea if there’s a fresh leak.
im thinking if that area is where everything points to Icould remove the housing off the block that contains the the half moon and the crank seal that way I. can see the rubber half moon as well .Part of which you see in pic.
No fresh leak from crank seal, nothing obvious fro behind cam sprockets , I may have to take them off without locking plates I’m wary (made my own ) and maybe replace seals there as well . Does the vvt pulley come off intact after the centre but is slackened ?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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So yours has a gasket on the sump then, is that it
Or just for the two end caps,( them poxy bits of rubber that fit in the groove )
Yes


Not saying this is yours, but you can see its a complete unit..
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Yes thats the same , gasket is all one , a metal srip on each facing an jointed at each end for crank housing and opposite end.
I have removed all the bolts surrounding the crank pulley housing , so unsure as to whether it comes off and consequently if it goes back together , I might have to remove the sump again, not sure ....A bugger!
Ill send a pic
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
181692
Ok this is the plate but reluctant to part company , perhaps I should move or remove the crank seal first.
181693
24FAD15F-554C-4A62-BC9B-8B500CCD7BC6.jpeg so seal out now I have a replacement and it doesn’t look as ifit was letting oil passed, I can still see the small amount of sealant applied thinking the housing was damaged a little .
181694
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
181695
loser
181696
Now the section of housing is off and it doesn’t look too healthy , a lot of scoring ( not me )! Has occurred so that wouldn’t help. The sump seal is where it’s meant to be but some help with Rtv might help.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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The cover looks ok, ignore the slight scoring, as its coming through the centre of the seal, not the sides
What sort of sealant have you used
Never seen that type of RTV before
That looks like a hylomar sealant
Dont need any on the inner part, but if you decide to use it on the outer edge A smear is enough
BUT on the seal, not the housing, you want the sealant to come out, not go inside and block any oil galleries up.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I agree with the lip , I would never put RTV there , the sealant I would use is a blue Loctite product I used for a Rocker cover on a Mitsubishi. They have a huge problem on the Valve cover. So if this is not the problem what is , I’m stumped only to find after rebuild there is something still there. I’ll lift and clear out the seat of half moon seen in the last pic and seat that in Rtv , nothing is too obvious at this stage .
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Dont beat yourself up here, if only place it was leaking from is crankseal, replace it ..


( After market are nor very good here, too big a job to take the gamble on, same as rear cramkseals, Genuine, though expensive always pays off )

Clean cam belt with Brake cleaner, then wash in soapy water rinse it well if re using it
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Thanks , for the beating up reminder but not sure as to where the leak is yet.
mum going to clean below the rubber half moon and put a smear there also.
im going to order a cam sprocket plate to lock and replace sprockets and as an ins replace the seals there but no evidence of leaks but for timing belt throwing it about.
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Also , after you said genuine makes sense I am taking back this seal , same make I put in last week , not only that it’s oval and get a £20 one instead of £
£8 !
I should have learnt my lesson there when I spent months trying sort my ABS on an old Range Rover using aftermarket sensors, genuine cleared all fault .
Thanks for your advice, very much appreciated!
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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£8 For a generic, tucking hell thats expensive ... Is that Trade, have you asked for a trade discount if you use the shop often?
If you spend over £500 a year there,, ask,
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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That seems a high price for a generic seal, around a fiver here..
I know local factors, if a customer is regular they get certain trade discounts..
Ranging from 5 down to 1 ..
Hopefully a regular member who comes on @Davegayle ,, will tell you his discount from a factors I use..
But looking at his receipts he's on about the same as me,
As he's been using the same factors for over 25 years..
Not sure how much he spends a year now.
As I usually pick his parts up if I have time
But he still gets his discount ..

He dont get A callender or bottle of wine, or 12 cans of beer mind ( I do LOL )
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Spend a lot more than £500 that's for sure.
I;m not sure If I want a Generic seal given what happens, however there is an other Motor Factors before I go to Renault.What do you think?
A different make might make the difference I suppose.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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for the life of me cannot remember what make I use..
In the gearbox area, ( Crank rear,or gearbox input shaft seal always use genuine )
But with you having a failure once, you might be better just putting a genuine in and having done with

This really is mind over matter now, you wont feel right in your mind if you put a generic in
The doubt factor will keep coming back
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I dont understand the pricing of these seals , Renault genuine for crank £19 but camshaft seals are 35 and 25 , gave them a miss and local factors wanted 4 and 6 , albeit earlier type ....apparently , the ID was the same on exhaust but that was all, another local supplier wanted £39 and I forget the other. They appeared to be correct sizing but unsure until I get the inlet vvt pulley off/ and measure . I t might have been prudent again to go Gen.I cant understand why the camshaft ones are so much dearer.
Its the time factor as well , by the time you decide these things , another week passes LoL
 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
181761
If You turn the image to right it’s sitting in a recessed circle , sorry if you can’t see the circular lines .
I thought Iwould load ups genuine crank seal from Renault . It is different in two ways with a very small white marking on the lip . Also instead of diagonal lines to throw oil in a clockwise direction, there are straight lines round the internal circumference ?
As long as that makes the difference , I ‘m happy!
181762
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Never understand pricing of parts me
Just so glad it's the customer paying at times

Yesterday

Bolt broke off in a audi upper suspension
The part is £500 , effing crazy
As the bolt cannot be removed because of the shape of the suspension .
Two engineering companies have had a go and gave up..

chances are the bearing will be tucked as its held in with bolts, and will more than lickly refuse to come out,
ABS sensor has already snapped off..
Customer is going crackers ,
All for one DUST cover on the ball joint,
And that arm plus the other arm are needed , wont come out because the bolt holds them both in place ,
£80 each

( So £20 dont sound to bad when put against a sh1tty VAG car )
 
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