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I gave up bothering with drain plugs years ago, especially in difficult to reach positions.
Just remove the bottom hose and drain into a suitable container for safe disposal.
Seen a few of them break in no man's land.
Anyway I reckon that pulling the hose does a better job of flushing debris out with the big run of coolant.
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
A good job I removed this coolant. It had dried up in a few places and left staining. More to the point, I removed the thermostat housing and it's visibly warped! Cheap eBay product though.....
179354
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Dried up around the thermostat gasket and expansion tank. Temp sensor O ring had dry chunks all over it. Leaked a few weeks back, possibly as a result.

Coolant stained the engine block galleries (visible with stat housing removed), radiator and expansion tank.

System was flushed and pulled apart. Engine block, heater core and radiator given a final set of flushes with distilled before blowing remaining fluid out of the pipes and hardware.

Everything reinstalled, new thermostat housing installed, followed torque and install sequence on instruction leaflet. Filled, bled, heater on full, all is well.

Need more coolant. Below min line. Final bleed with the thermostat open after topping up will be done for good measure.

179365
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Air bled out during a test drive causing coolant levels to drop a fair bit! As a result of low coolant, the temperature gauge went 1 bar/cluster above the mid point for approximately 60 seconds. Will this have been enough to warp the new thermostat housing I installed?
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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I very much doubt it. The housing should be able to cope with the coolant reaching maximum on the scale. If there's no leaks then its all good.
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
I very much doubt it. The housing should be able to cope with the coolant reaching maximum on the scale. If there's no leaks then its all good.
Thanks bud. I can't see a leak. Just worried of slight warping, don't want coolant and oil to mix as a result.

The housing sits directly on the face of the engine block, so they do take all the heat, not just the coolant heat. With this, do you think I'm still OK? Cheers.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Most common cause of thin or plastic items warping is too much torque when fitted
Second is uneven torque
Third s unbalanced tightening, ie one side fully tightened then the other
High temp is way down the list, at least as far as coolant or block temp
I know that you are a perfectionist with things like torque but any apply ???
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
Most common cause of thin or plastic items warping is too much torque when fitted
Second is uneven torque
Third s unbalanced tightening, ie one side fully tightened then the other
High temp is way down the list, at least as far as coolant or block temp
I know that you are a perfectionist with things like torque but any apply ???
Thanks for the help.
I was careful to torque all fasteners correctly and evenly.
Just checked under the housing. Felt with my finger. It was wet.
The substance was green coolant mixed with oil.
Either the housing is slowly leaking, or the coolant is from opening the bleeder valve.
As for the oil, could be general grime which collects over time.
I've mopped it up. Will check in a few hours. If I find anything fresh, the housing is getting replaced!
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Attachment 1:
Here are the install instructions that came with the unit.
Instructions say to tighten screws labelled 2 and 3 simultaneously. Not being funny but how do you tighten 5 screws at once?

179406


Attachment 2:
Here is the order I followed (at all times). I hand tightened each screw in that order, then nipped them up, followed by torqueing down to 9nm. Screws 1 - 4 are the long fasteners. Screws 5 - 9 are short.

179407
 

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Discussion Starter #51
No leaks from the unit. The method I used as shown in the above post worked just fine. Hope this helps others. Please mark thread as solved. Thank you everyone for the kind support as always.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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If you are a car maker, tightening 5 pins at once is easy, all you need is a special multi head drive tool.
For the rest of us, it is as the instructions,
Each tightened a little in order before final torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I think I have an air lock. Could be the reason I saw the coolant reach above normal temperature. Reason for possible airlock is because the hose in the attachment below is very easy to squeeze compared to the rest. Feels like it is only partially full at all times. Every time I squeeze it, the coolant in the expansion tank burps. Endless squeezing hasn't made a difference.

Overflow pipe leading from the radiator to the expansion tank also spits out a tiny bit of coolant along with some micro bubbles, with each squeeze of the pipe shown in said attachment. I've tried the following in this order:

1) Ran engine 10 minutes with expansion cap off.
2) Waited 5 minutes, then removed bleeder on thermostat housing. Coolant gushed out. Closed bleeder.
3) Removed bleeder on pipe leading to heater matrix. Coolant gushed out. Closed bleeder.
4) Topped up coolant to max. Ran engine, heater on full, held 3k rev for 30 seconds. Left to idle 10 minutes.
5) Squeezed hose in question, no change. Put expansion cap on. Idle 2 minutes. Squeeze. No change.

179432
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Are you saying this is now Solved Bradders ?


With all coolant, best way is to test levels first thing in the morning, ( If car stands overnight that is )

Just undo the cap, and see if it drops.
If yes top up, if ok , leave alone ..
 

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Take the car on say a 6 mile drive and any residual air in the system should have purged itself by then.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Removed the cap after the car was stood and the levels remained the same.

I drove the car 10 miles, checked the pipe, and it still feels the same.
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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If you levels are now steady, the thermostat is opening mormally, your engine temperature gauge is spot on and the heater/AC is working normally then I wouldn't be concerned with the pipes any more. Your cooling system is working fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
It does seem to be working OK. I put the car through it's paces by driving firmly. Blower set to cold / off, preventing passive cooling via heater core. The gauge remained at operating temperature. Heater works fine by the way, super hot! I have noticed though, the engine gets to operating temperature after only 4-5 minutes of driving. It normally took longer before I did this work.
 

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I have noticed though, the engine gets to operating temperature after only 4-5 minutes of driving. It normally took longer before I did this work.
Is the new thermostat exactly the same operating temperature as the old one? I would think its warming up quicker as the new thermostat is working more effectively as it is new. When old ones completely fail they do so in the closed position (no flow) so over a long time I guess the waxstat doesn't open the plate quite as quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Is the new thermostat exactly the same operating temperature as the old one? I would think its warming up quicker as the new thermostat is working more effectively as it is new. When old ones completely fail they do so in the closed position (no flow) so over a long time I guess the waxstat doesn't open the plate quite as quickly.
It's hard to say. If you look at replacement housings, although identical units, some are listed at 89c, whilst others at 83c. Mine doesn't state which. Previous housing was 89c I think.

I was under the impression that the longer it takes for the thermostat housing to open, the quicker the engine gains heat, because the hot coolant can't escape into the radiator to begin the cooling process.
 
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