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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, I just finished rebuilding my Power Steering Pump and changing out the High Pressure Power Steering Pump Hose.

I thought I would document this for future use, its probably valid for Scenics, Kangoo and other cars as well.

Hope you enjoy!

Andre

2000 Renault Clio II- K4J 1.4-16v -98PS ABS (LHD): Power Steering Pump Removal and Rebuild with A/C Compressor and Power Steering options (LHD) by Andre [MtvClio] Renaultforums.co.uk
I have had a slow leak from the power steering pump for a while now, it was coming from the rear of the housing. I looked into replacing the pump and found prices in the € 60 up to € 250.
Now here is the thing, normally I have no problem paying 10x mark up from the manufacturing cost for a car part because many times you have limited options: brake pads, rotors, air filters, bushings, etc. But for a leaking €2 O-ring I thought I would try to just rebuild it myself. Plus what’s the real difference between a €250 TRW and a €60 no name brand? I do not know.
Surprisingly there is very little detailed information on-line about rebuilding this style power steering pump. Collectively known as a Saginaw (GM) Type 2 or TC Style pump it’s been around since the 1960’s. You can find derivatives of this pump in Opels, Holdens, Corvettes and of course Renaults are a few with the Type 2. This pump is known as a Rotating Vane Hydraulic pump:
179638

So below we have an exploded diagram of the Type 2 pump. The parts we are interested in replacing are the O-rings 18, 16, 6 and the front shaft seal number 3. GM or AC-Delco makes a Rotor/Vane Kit for a few dollars and you could replace parts 11,12,13 and 14 but when I asked about I found out it was out of production. I don’t know if you can find it via another source. When I took my pump apart it was in good condition, no scoring or scratches. So I just flipped the vanes and re-used the original parts.
Figure 1-Saginaw Type 2 (TC) Power Steering Pump
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Item​
Name​
1Supply Port (Low Pressure from Reservoir)
2Pump Body
3Shaft Seal (19mm) High Temperature
4Spring
5Flow Control Valve
6Pump Body to Union O-Ring Seal
7Union Fitting (High Pressure out to steering rack)
8Pump Shaft
9Dowel Pins (2x)
10Thrust Plate
11Cam Ring
12Vanes
13Rotor
14Pump Shaft Retaining Ring
15Pressure Plate
16Pump Body O-Ring
17Pressure Plate Wave Spring
18End Cover O-Ring
19End Cover
20End Cover Retaining Ring
Figure 2-Stock Type 2 Pump
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Note: I included a copy of the rebuild instructions that came with the PS pump rebuild kit in the Appendix. The parts schematic is not 100% accurate (different housing and reservoir is integrated into the pump) but it offers some additional info that can be useful.
Parts List Below no VAT:
ItemManufacturerPart NumberTotal Cost
PS Pump Seal Rebuild KitEdelsMann8624€ 10.00
179639
179640
Includes O-Rings and Shaft Seal
Cross Reference of Parts​
Seal KitGM26053277$7.94
Ring Kit, Hydraulic Pump
(W/Rotor & Vanes)
179641
GM26046606NLA
Power Steering Pump Shaft SealGM26025977$3.35
Power Steering Pump High Pressure Hose O-RingVarious€ 2.00
Power Steering Pump High Pressure Hose (includes both O-Rings and Pressure Sensor)Renault8200710815€ 202.00



Estimated Time with 1 person is 6 hours start to finish for first timers, add another hour if you need to cut apart and remove the High Pressure Power Steering Pump hose…because rust ;)
Next the tools required for the job:
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  • Jack and Jack Stands, torque wrench and a small piece flat wood (only for Transmission support when replacing (PS High Pressure Hose)
  • 13mm open end wrenches (Thin or tappet wrench, ratcheting type, long wrench) for idler pulley bolt/tensioner bolt:
  • 13mm socket 6” extension and ratchet for top tensioner pulley bolt and PS Pump.
  • Anti-seize paste, rags, gloves, eye protection
  • 2nd pair of hands is helpful
  • Long pliers
  • Torx 20, 30 and 40 Bits (with ratchet or bit driver) for PS pump and front trim removal
  • 8mm wrench for battery cable (Radio Code is also needed)
  • 10mm for Battery Tray Removal (only if replacing PS High Pressure Hose) and for Hood Release Bracket
  • 16mm socket (deepwell) 6” extension and ratchet for transmission mount (only if replacing PS High Pressure Hose)
  • 17mm wrench/Flare wrench (PS High Pressure Hose)
  • 1L Dextron II Power Steering/Automatic Transmission Fluid
Loosen the wheel nuts slight, jack the car up and support it with a jack stand. I placed the jack stand near the lower control arm on the front rail. Remove the right front wheel, see below:
Figure 3- Right Front Wheel
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Next with a piece of wood on top of the jack, move the jack up so its holding the engine. You can watch the motor mount to see how much you need to make the mount move. Make sure you have just enough pressure to support the engine, moving the engine up can damage your motor mount, see below:
Figure 4-Car Supported and engine supported

Jack Stand Position
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Discussion Starter #2
Well I don't think uploading 60 images and text in this manner is going to work. It throws the formatting off and after the days spend editing this into a PDF I am not going to re-post it without the correct layout.

I've written 3 DIY How to's here already so if you want to see what I'm talking about just search for my profile.

Thanks
Andre
 

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Sexy at 70 super duper mod..
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Just suggested and talking to a fellow mod that this be made a sticky..lets see how it goes..would be easier for members to find and wouldn't get lost in amongst other posts on here..on my behalf thankyou for the time you have taken putting it together..🙂
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cool no problem, take a look at the other DIY's that I did a few years back.

Not sure if they were made stickies or not.

Thanks for the support
Andre
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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I'll add my thanks as well.
This is the sort of thing that does really help people who are looking to do a job.

As an aside...vane pumps.
Were the staple of my life when I was a Technical Engineer working in a foundry.
Seeing that diagram took me straight back 40 years.
 
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