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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi can anyone point out the location of the engine fan relay ideally on a 2016 Clio please
 

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Welcome to the forum. Please don't post 2 threads with the same question - 2016 Renault Clio gt engine fan

I can't seem to find the fan fuse on any diagram available. Have you just checked all your fuses to see if any are gone? That would be the easier method without a diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the reply I’ve checked all the fuses and relays and they are all working fine. The engine fan spins so I know it has seized. The relay for engine fan switches over when activated on computer but the fan just won’t kick in. I’ve taken to a couple of garages now and no one can seem to find a fault however no one is also willing to take the car in as they don’t want the hassle of doing fault finding with sensors. Ive been trying to find a Renault speacialist mechanic in or around south east london. The local dealerships are all booked up at the moment till mid April.
 

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Thank you for the reply I’ve checked all the fuses and relays and they are all working fine. The engine fan spins so I know it has seized. The relay for engine fan switches over when activated on computer but the fan just won’t kick in. I’ve taken to a couple of garages now and no one can seem to find a fault however no one is also willing to take the car in as they don’t want the hassle of doing fault finding with sensors. Ive been trying to find a Renault speacialist mechanic in or around south east london. The local dealerships are all booked up at the moment till mid April.
It has to be temperature related. I know a fan doesn't kick in if your thermostat is stuck open. But you would know because you would have far less heat inside the car if it was stuck open. But this is down to coolant temperature for sure. If you've got no faults then that's where I'd be looking.
 

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Technical Supremo.
Scenic II, 2004, K4MW761, DPO
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I’m looking for some help. This morning a engine malfunction warning came up on my dashboard and also the emissions light, since then I’ve worked out that the engine fan isn’t coming on.
Question ............... how exactly did you figure the fan to be the problem? (Fan operation is not directly linked to emissions btw)

Electric cooling fans generally do not run during normal operation of the vehicle - the thermostat temperature spec is chosen for that reason/characteristic.

What happens if you remove the wire from the engine coolant temperature sensor? ............. does the fan run then?
 

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Question ............... how exactly did you figure the fan to be the problem? (Fan operation is not directly linked to emissions btw)

Electric cooling fans generally do not run during normal operation of the vehicle - the thermostat temperature spec is chosen for that reason/characteristic.

What happens if you remove the wire from the engine coolant temperature sensor? ............. does the fan run then?
Didn't think of suggesting that. I've done that a few times by mistake when messing around with other components. Suffice to say, fan spins it's t.its off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It has to be temperature related. I know a fan doesn't kick in if your thermostat is stuck open. But you would know because you would have far less heat inside the car if it was stuck open. But this is down to coolant temperature for sure. If you've got no faults then that's where I'd be looking.
thanks again for getting back to me Is there anywhere you would start to look in particular? How would I go about locating the thermostat?Thanks again I appreciate your help
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Question ............... how exactly did you figure the fan to be the problem? (Fan operation is not directly linked to emissions btw)

Electric cooling fans generally do not run during normal operation of the vehicle - the thermostat temperature spec is chosen for that reason/characteristic.

What happens if you remove the wire from the engine coolant temperature sensor? ............. does the fan run then?
hi thanks for the response I’m going off what the mechanic has said and the diagnostic report.There was a lot of error codes originally but after deleting the fan remained on the report.

im sorry if this sounds stupid but how would I locate the wire that goes to the engine coolant?
Also I’ve seen online a lot of people say to check the thermostat however again I don’t have a clue where to locate.

Thanks again for your response I’m really greatfull for the advice.
 

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thanks again for getting back to me Is there anywhere you would start to look in particular? How would I go about locating the thermostat?Thanks again I appreciate your help
I would unplug the temp sensor plug first. See if that kicks on your fan. If it does, then we'll look at suggesting something else.

190122


Thats the temp sensor for your engine. Right side, just above the gearbox. You should see the long neck of the back end if the sensor. Disconnect the connector from that sensor and fire up your car. Be careful when your disconnecting the connector. The only thing holding the sensor in is a metal clip. So be gentle with it.

This is assuming you have a diesel and not a petrol engine.
 

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Technical Supremo.
Scenic II, 2004, K4MW761, DPO
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There was a lot of error codes originally but after deleting the fan remained on the report.
As before - there is no dash moan on the emissions system directly triggered or controlled by the fan so I fail to see how/why the mechanic is now chasing this with the reported initial moans on the dash.

Are the dash moans now gone?

............ and more importantly, what EXACTLY do you see on the engine temperature gauge - do you feel the behaviour is normal?

Do you have the initial scan report? - if so can you post its contents? - especially the actual error code numbers

If you switch on/use the AC does the radiator fan spin then?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would unplug the temp sensor plug first. See if that kicks on your fan. If it does, then we'll look at suggesting something else.

View attachment 190122

Thats the temp sensor for your engine. Right side, just above the gearbox. You should see the long neck of the back end if the sensor. Disconnect the connector from that sensor and fire up your car. Be careful when your disconnecting the connector. The only thing holding the sensor in is a metal clip. So be gentle with it.

This is assuming you have a diesel and not a petrol engine.
hi thanks again my car is a 1.2 turbo petrol gt model I’ve tried to locate the thermostat but am having a bit of difficulty are either of these the thermostat
190137
190138
White Motor vehicle Black Automotive tire Automotive design
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
As before - there is no dash moan on the emissions system directly triggered or controlled by the fan so I fail to see how/why the mechanic is now chasing this with the reported initial moans on the dash.

Are the dash moans now gone?

............ and more importantly, what EXACTLY do you see on the engine temperature gauge - do you feel the behaviour is normal?

Do you have the initial scan report? - if so can you post its contents? - especially the actual error code numbers

If you switch on/use the AC does the radiator fan spin then?
hi I don’t have a engine temp gauge, the warnings are all still there. The car drives fine no loss of power my a/c has stopped blowing cold but that’s the only change.

the fan doesn’t spin when I turn the a/c on.
I’ll upload the report it did have a lot of error codes however when he deleted and restarted the number of errors did decrease.
Thanks again for the response.
 

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Technical Supremo.
Scenic II, 2004, K4MW761, DPO
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The thermostat and the engine temperature gauge sensor is located here in that picture of yours:
Leg Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Motor vehicle Automotive design



I would suggest you stop any further faultfinding until we have an idea how come you ended up with all these codes on the computers:

Can you answer this first:

1. Did you have a flat/bad battery or faulty charging system recently? - all of those faults you listed cannot possibly exist on a relatively healthy vehicle and such a wide range of faults are often caused by a bad/flat battery or faulty charging system.
2. When you checked for the radiator fan running with the AC on - did you also switch on the internal fan?
3. When did the AC start to not cool anymore?
4. What are the CURRENT codes left after the mechanic cleared what he could?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I’ve also added some pictures of engine bay if that helps at all
The thermostat and the engine temperature gauge sensor is located here in that picture of yours:
View attachment 190143


I would suggest you stop any further faultfinding until we have an idea how come you ended up with all these codes on the computers:

Can you answer this first:

1. Did you have a flat/bad battery or faulty charging system recently? - all of those faults you listed cannot possibly exist on a relatively healthy vehicle and such a wide range of faults are often caused by a bad/flat battery or faulty charging system.
2. When you checked for the radiator fan running with the AC on - did you also switch on the internal fan?
3. When did the AC start to not cool anymore?
4. What are the CURRENT codes left after the mechanic cleared what he could?
Hi thank you for pointing out the power to the sensor I did disconnect and the fan didn’t come on however the A/C did feel like it blew colder than it did the other day.

1. I suspected a flat battery originally and went to kwik fit the same day they changed the battery over as they said my battery has started to die and won’t fully charge. However when I went to another garage they told me the battery was way to small for my car and not designed for start stop they told me to go get my old battery back and a refund which I did I returned to the garage and he done further diagnostic with my iron gal battery and still showed the same faults

2.Yea I put the fans on highest setting with the a/c on.

3. I hadn’t noticed as it had been cold so I didn’t use the A/C only used the heating.

4. The last page I believe are the ones that showed after deleting the codes.

my car shows on dashboard as engine fault hazard, then goes one to check stop and start. Then the final one is check anti pollution system.

my car is in pretty good condition gets serviced regularly by dealer and has done 28,000 miles.

thanks for all the continued advice.
 

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Technical Supremo.
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I would stop this searching for faults that most likely don't exist - I don't know what scanner what used to check on your vehicle, but it sure was not a proper Renault speaking scanner at all - a proper Renault speaking scanner would have listed the issue with stop-start as well as the anti-pollution system .......................... I think all of this the "mechanic" has done till now is waste your time and money.

Get the battery and charging system properly tested - battery under heavy load and the charging system with all electrical loads switched on.

Only once you know for a fact that they are both normal, THEN find a mechanic with a Renault speaking scanner or buy one yourself - get the proper codes and we can try and help you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I would stop this searching for faults that most likely don't exist - I don't know what scanner what used to check on your vehicle, but it sure was not a proper Renault speaking scanner at all - a proper Renault speaking scanner would have listed the issue with stop-start as well as the anti-pollution system .......................... I think all of this the "mechanic" has done till now is waste your time and money.

Get the battery and charging system properly tested - battery under heavy load and the charging system with all electrical loads switched on.

Only once you know for a fact that they are both normal, THEN find a mechanic with a Renault speaking scanner or buy one yourself - get the proper codes and we can try and help you.
thanks you I think that my best bet like you said is to find a Renault mechanic I’m going to book in at local dealership after the bank holiday I’ll keep this thread updated and hopefully post the resolution thank you for all the advice everyone has given.
 

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thanks you I think that my best bet like you said is to find a Renault mechanic I’m going to book in at local dealership after the bank holiday I’ll keep this thread updated and hopefully post the resolution thank you for all the advice everyone has given.
Be very careful with dealerships. Because those guys are hit and miss too. Buy the Autel AP200 (white version) and run a scan. That should tell you what's your anti-pllution warning is tied to. Those faults shown in your images in a previous post. That's way too many faults for a car that's done your mileage. Something is a miss here, so a proper clearing of the ECU and all modules will do the trick here. Then, any faults that are showing after that, they will be the actual faults. I suppose, the dealership would be best to do this as they have full membership to the latest Clip software.

Just be prepared to pay for a dealership diagnostic. Where as the AP200 scanner is £69.99 on ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi all thought I’d update on the car, the independent garage I took the car to first had changed 2 relays and the problem seemed to be fixed however 4 days later the problem came back they had explained if it happens again they would need to look further into it as it they believed it might had been a sensor.

Luckily I forgot to cancel my appointment at the main dealer so I took the car to them they ran there diagnostics and done there own fault finding after.. to cut a long story short they said they found a common wiring fault with the wires that go to the fuse box they’ve fixed that and all seems well on day 2 of having my car back.
Once again thank you for all your help me advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update day 3 and the same faults are back.. engine fan not working and same dashboard warnings
 
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