hi espaced, dont know about price? mine is a 02,dci and they are lucas ones but it is a left hooker. you say it is your wifes if you have a car yourself take one out when you go to purchase them and you know you have the right ones
[word of warning] just changed mine recently you need a workshop tool to fit them ie the pistons dont just expand as the pad is used the pistons spirel out you need proper w/shop tool to wind them back in i purchased one from a motor factor last time i was back in the uk before i got the pads about 20 quid i think it was [still cheaper than paying a garage good luck.
they were Lucas calipers. They are the same system as m,y Audi A4.
bought the new pads for £12.
the old ones were def. worn. the noisey one had worn down the spring rivet slightly only, no damage to disc.
on winding the pistons back in on the calipers -
first take the reservoir lid off.
undo the 2 caliper bolts 13mm & 15mm spanner needed, and prise out the way, pads can be removed now.
using a standard 6" G clamp -
position the rotating end centrally onto the piston and the other end onto a bolt head, slowly tighten the clamp, the piston will start to turn and go back in.
on mine it took about 30 seconds for the nearside , but the offside would not budge so i used some stilsons to turn the piston, i was very tight, i sprayed wd40 and kept turning, it wasn't moving much,:steam:
so i thought i would press the brake pedal to pop it out and clean the piston up. couldn't see much reason why it was not going in, however the dust seal was not located properly. When it was in pieces you can see the spirals that are to do with the hand brake - thats why they have to wind back in and the hand brake will automatically adjust when you give it a few pulls.
it took me forever to try and get the piston in, i ended removing the caliper from the vehicle to work on:steam:
and even more differculty trying to get the dust seal back in properly, i had to remove the piston several times again to get the right technique to get the seal and piston in properly. i did find that operating the lever that moves the handbrake spiral would push the piston back out easily when needed.
however, did finish this marathon job which would have took about 30-40 mins in about 3 hours, i also had to get some brake fluid and bleed through.:steam:
All worked fine when tested and bedded in. what a b'stard.
Here is a picture hopefully of a G clamp or cramp as some might say.
But you need a 6" version. as i said get the moving end central on the piston and the fixed end on top of the bolt which is directly in line to keep parrellel.
undo reservoir cap and the piston will rotate back in about 10 seconds. if its not corroded.
Hi Espace but how does the foot on the end of the clamp engage and turn the piston or are your calipers different than usual. I have been using your method on front calipers for many years - just place an old pad between the clamp foot and the hollow piston so you don't cause any uneccessary damage. It is also recommended you release the bleeder when forcing the pistons back as it can cause problems with the ABS system if fitted. The best way is to clamp the flexible hose first, open the bleeder - push back the piston, close the bleeder assembly the new components remove the brake hose clamp and then gave the caliper a short bleed - that way you get rid of any mucky fluid in the caliper and the clamp reduces the risk of air getting into the system. I have heard of numerous cases of the ABS unit being damaged by forcing fluid back through it - apparently the regulating valves are prone to damage and are primarily designed to permit flow in one direction only. Knew a guy who replaced the pads on his Honda and didn't follow the recommendations and ended up coughing up £400 for new ABS unit.
the piston ends are relatively flat, and the foot on the clamp will rotate when there is a small amount of pressure pushing on the piston which rotates at the same time because of the spiral/thread its on.
as i said they are a Lucas caliper and are the same as my Audi A4 rear calipers, which i used the same method to push the pistons back with no problem at all.
If a rear caliper piston is in good condition you can wind it back in with a pair of pointy nosed pliers - especially if you open the bleeder - forcing the piston back without aiding it to turn can cause damage - you can buy the proper tool (fits onto the end of a socket extension bar) for £10 or £12In my view that would be much cheaper than a new caliper. Maybe you were just lucky this time but thanks for sharing your knowledge.