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Here is a guide for allowing an aux input (for example, to use an ipod) in the Cabasse system fitted to the Laguna II Phase 2 Initiale. This system has a 6cd MP3 changer in the dashboard and satellite navigation functions are controlled by a joystick device on the armrest. This also works for similar Espace models.

First, you need to get the correct cable. A mini ISO plug is used. I have had mine made by somebody named Alan on ebay (User: mod18) who has been extremely useful throughout in helping me understand what is needed through us both looking at the French forum Planete Renault. His workmanship seems to be very good to me, also. He is generally found on ebay selling Megane Cabasse cables.

The cable must be built using the following connections:

Connection 1: Left channel - negative
Connection 2: Right channel + positive
Connection 3: Right channel - negative (connected to Connection 1)
Connection 4: Left channel + positive
Connection 5: Negative ground (for example, from the feed to the radio)
Connection 6: Positive supply (for example, from the feed to the radio).

This is based upon the ISO being numbered as follows:



Please IGNORE the current wires into that plug, it is just an example of the number layout; it is not wired as above.

The cable received from Alan is as so:





It needed the two connections 5 and 6 for power and ground to be connected using simple soldered connections that push and clip into the mini ISO. These will have to be manually connected later.


Thus the finished cable should look like:


The other end is obviously a 3.5 mm jack, directly into your audio device.

You can fit the cable in any way that you like, however, the amplifier for the connection to the car is in the rear of the glovebox.

I routed mine into the central armrest by removing the plastic panel hiding the emergency handbrake release and pushing the cable up by the edge of the armrest, in between the armrest plastic and the carpet. The other side of going to the glovebox was hidden behind various plastic panels.





You should remove the amplifier in order to fit the plug, to do this, remove the glove box liner by undoing the single torx (T20) inside and using a bit of effort around the edges to help pull it out (it is a difficult step, the clips are fierce).



Once out, you can fully see the amplifier and 4 screws on its mounting bracket. Undo these screws and lift the amplifier out. You will see an empty plug socket on the rear, this is for your plug.




You now need to connect up the negative ground and positive to a source of power (this tells that amplifier that there is a source to use). I used scotch blocks to connect up to the main black cable feed (thicker than the other connections) and the red cable – this is to the main connector block at the back of the amplifier. This should remain live regardless of the car being on or off, thus allowing you to always access the aux input. This is a slightly fiddling part, and you might have a better solution, but the amplifier only needs to recognise a 12v voltage is present.




Refit and enjoy, the aux setting for the radio should be easily accessed using the steering wheel remote etc.




Add a basic ipod cable for power and you're sorted.

Once again, thanks to Alan for his excellent effort and please remember that you undertake all of this at your own risk. It worked for me, but I can’t allow for your mistakes or Renault’s changes, sorry.
 

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Great guide. Just debating now whether it's worth doing, considering that I'm only supposed to be keeping the car until October.
 

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£20 I can live with, and getting to the back of the amp isn't too tricky (I've done it before to fit the TomTom permenant docking kit.)

I've dropped the eBay guy a message and I'll see what he says.

Thanks very much :)
 

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Fantastic post,thank-you for making the effort.:).It's posts like yours that make this such a usefull forum.Excellent.:)

(thats for pghstochaj,not for you Dave.:rofl:)
 

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I used a similar guide on here and used an old computer cd drive audio cable.

On a separate note - I much prefer the dashboard to the facelift version of the Lag2 compared to the ph1 i've got!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys - when I realised that it had not previously been done (or if done, it had not been documented), there was no way I was not making a decent guide.

I used a similar guide on here and used an old computer cd drive audio cable.

On a separate note - I much prefer the dashboard to the facelift version of the Lag2 compared to the ph1 i've got!
Yes, that's the problem, the phase 2 Initiale seems to be fairly rare so all guides are for the previous Cabasse system and that does not apply to the facelift version.

I too prefer the dash but I question some of the durability, I actually really enjoy my Laguna. I am replacing my ashtray lid tomorrow as some of the soft touch paint has flaked away.
 

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I'd trade my 03 plate initiale in for a ph2 tomorrow if I thought the build quality was significantly better - but I fear that it isnt!

Shame really as its a much better looking car than the Lag3!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'd trade my 03 plate initiale in for a ph2 tomorrow if I thought the build quality was significantly better - but I fear that it isnt!

Shame really as its a much better looking car than the Lag3!
I can't compare to the Phase I, but my opinion of the Phase II is that the build quality in my opinion is surprisingly good. Time will tell, of course. I was annoyed about the paint damage (the previous owner must have hung his keys out of the keycard slot and thus it scraped against it) but when I googled the issue, there are 50 Audi/VW owners for every Renault owner complaining about the same thing.
 

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I can't compare to the Phase I, but my opinion of the Phase II is that the build quality in my opinion is surprisingly good. Time will tell, of course. I was annoyed about the paint damage (the previous owner must have hung his keys out of the keycard slot and thus it scraped against it) but when I googled the issue, there are 50 Audi/VW owners for every Renault owner complaining about the same thing.
I've had both Phase I and Phase II, and really don't see a whole lot of obvious difference in build quality. To be honest, I've always thought that they were pretty well put together, cosmetically at least.

They've done one or two sensible things, such as getting rid of the troublesome covered stereo cage, and putting screws in the front of the dash so that you can remove and replace the centre air vents if they break (the screws are hidden behind the trim strip that's on the Phase II.) It also looks like the headlights might be removable for ease of bulb replacement, but don't hold me to that as I've never needed to try and don't plan on doing it for the sake of it.

And apart from the turbo shredding the engine, a faulty ABS computer and the car's ridiculous failure to recover from a flat battery, I suppose it has fared well in the reliability stakes compared with its predecessor. My old 2 litre threw injection faults on a fairly regular basis (well it was the IDE engine) and over the 80K miles that I had it, must have leaked just about every liquid present in the car. The power steering rack and pump failed, and it needed a new gearbox (probably due to one of the oil leaks.) Yes, I'd say that things have improved everywhere bar the engine, and that was hopefully ironed out when they introduced the 2 litre diesel.

Back to the subject of the iPod cable: I've been in touch with Alan and I think he's happy to do another one at the same price. The cheapest I can get the connector alone seems to be about six quid including postage, and by the time I've added the other components, reckon I'd be on the wrong side of a tenner. So I reckon it's well worth the extra to have the cable pre-made, and when it comes to getting rid of the car, I'll either let the new owner have the cable as an added bonus, or see if anyone on here wants it for around half of what I paid :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Good to hear it, I was happy to pay that figure because he helped me work it out, alone I wouldn't have bothered I imagine. I think it is worth the extra for time saving etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have just been asked to clarify what the power inputs do on this via PM, so here is my response for all to see. All the power input does (12v and 0v) is act as a switch to let the amplifier know that there is an aux input connection made and therefore it should make that menu available in the option's menu.
 

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I have just been asked to clarify what the power inputs do on this via PM, so here is my response for all to see. All the power input does (12v and 0v) is act as a switch to let the amplifier know that there is an aux input connection made and therefore it should make that menu available in the option's menu.
For what it's worth, I thought you'd made that perfectly clear from the outset :)
 

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For what it's worth, I thought you'd made that perfectly clear from the outset :)
What wasn't clear to me was if this power could be presented after the ignition was on, ie connected via accessory socket or if it HAS to be a permanent live.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I don't think it matters - just so long as when you next go through your cycle of sources to the amp using your remote steering control, that it then has power. I went for perm live since I know now that I can use it when the ignition is off, parked up waiting for something etc.
 

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What wasn't clear to me was if this power could be presented after the ignition was on, ie connected via accessory socket or if it HAS to be a permanent live.
I took it to mean that as long as there's power, AUX will be available, and as long as there isn't, it won't.

Ignition live and permanent live should work equally well, because both will be live whenever the stereo is on. Ignition live might be a marginally better choice, in case this sensing imposes any drain on the battery (though I doubt it pulls more than a few milliamps.)

You can get either off the power ISO block on the back of the amp, which is probably the easiest thing to tap into bearing in mind that you're rummaging around there to plug the cable in anyway.

I could be wrong and maybe it does need a permanent live. Whichever I choose, I'll be testing before putting the amp back in place.
 

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My cable just plopped through the letterbox a few minutes ago, so I should get to fit it sometime this weekend. For what it's worth, Alan (who made the cable) recommends connecting the +12v supply to an ignition switched source.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Good - have fun. I can't see the downside of using a perm live, but using a switched live will mean you can't use the aux input to the radio with the car off, yet the radio still can be turned on? You could always use the feed to the cigarette lighter if needs be.
 

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Good - have fun. I can't see the downside of using a perm live, but using a switched live will mean you can't use the aux input to the radio with the car off, yet the radio still can be turned on? You could always use the feed to the cigarette lighter if needs be.
I never manually switch on the stereo anyway: If I want music without starting the car, then I press the start button but without the brake or clutch depressed. It cuts out after 20 minutes or so if you do this, but that doesn't particularly bother me.

I've still got the TomTom permanent docking kit wired to the back of the amp, and I modified the wiring on that quite a bit to try to get it working properly (I never did succeed :() I should be able to pick up ground and 12v from there.
 
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