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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there 'o wealth of knowledge,

In the process of having my engine rebuilt in my Espace II, after a critical oil loss and severe damage to at least one of the big end bearings, cam shaft and pistons. i have bitten the bullet and deceide to have the engine rebuilt, as a matter of course i am having timing belt, clutch, oil filters, new alternator, radiator, and some of the AC pipes replaced as they were in bad repair. Is there anything else that in your vast knowledge base here that anyone would recommend to do while the engine is on the bench?

Have also addresed the initial problem that caused the oil loss . . . . the speed bump in Coventry that dislodged the pipe from the bottom of the oil sump and emptying it in less than 60 seconds . Coventry City Council have paid out for the damage to the car circa £2k and am hoping that will cover the cost of the rebiuld ( wee boss man at the garage seems to think that is acheviable)

Any advice greatly received,

Many Thanks


Craig
 

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Engine rebuild

Hope your fitting a new oil pump - definitely a must in my opinion. Also doing anything about fuel system, pump, etc. Could the 2K stretch to a reinforced sump guard LOL:)
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for that Madnoel, it's now on the list as well as fuel pump and water pump. might as well do it right while the engine in on the bench, any other advice is greatly appreciated,

Many Thanks

Craig
 
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Discussion Starter #4
UPDATE . . .

The engiene is about to be put back into the Espace. Is there anything i should really be asking about before it goes back in. As Madnoel suggested i have had he oil pump and water pump replaced. Any advice appreciated

Many Thanks

Craig
 
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Sorry should have mentioned, have had the cluth replaced as well, might as well seeing as it was on the bench anyway,

Thanks Mag1,

Many Thanks

Craig

Is the spinner plate normally part of a full clutch replacement as that is what i asked them to do ?
 

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Replace clutch when engine out

The correct name for it is "the drive plate". When doing a clutch it should always be remembered that the 3 main components interact with each other - so by introducing one new component without replacing all is not good practice. Most people buy a clutch kit which comprises of
1. The Drive Plate
2. The Pressure Plate
3. Clutch Release Bearing
Additionally if the clutch has an internal slave cylinder it's best to renew it at the same time. The cost of replacing a clutch is mainly due to labour costs. Additionally no garage is likely to provide a warranty for a partial clutch repair.
Good Luck and happy motoring!:) :)
 
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The correct name for it is "the drive plate". When doing a clutch it should always be remembered that the 3 main components interact with each other - so by introducing one new component without replacing all is not good practice. Most people buy a clutch kit which comprises of
1. The Drive Plate
2. The Pressure Plate
3. Clutch Release Bearing
Additionally if the clutch has an internal slave cylinder it's best to renew it at the same time. The cost of replacing a clutch is mainly due to labour costs. Additionally no garage is likely to provide a warranty for a partial clutch repair.
Good Luck and happy motoring!:) :)
I agree TO DO A PROPER JOB then all three parts "A CLUTCH KIT" should be fitted. it's all dependant on costs. I was assuming that COSTS WOULD BE "THE" MAIN FACTOR.

It is false economy not to take this opportunity to replace some or all of the clutch
assembly whilst the engine is out of the car.


The Drive Plate alone would cost approx £15 to £25

ADD APPROX £50 TO £100 FOR THE FULL KIT

GREAT ADVICE!!.

PICTURE ENCLOSED OF THE AVERAGE CLUTCH.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for making that so clear to a numpty like moi :)

Have phoned the garage and they have replaced the "full shi-bang" as he said - the cost of the kit was £125 and labour was minimal as the engine is still on the bench being rebuilt - it's taken almost 2 weeks so far but i have asked him not to rush things as i am in no real hurry for the car back that way they can work on it when it suits them at slow times. This way he wont charge me an arm and a leg for labour, negotiated him down to £15 an hour which i thought was reasonable - compared to renaults £65 + vat. . . . . anyway back to the clutch, he confirmed it was all 3 parts he has done and new hydrolic fluid.

Many Thanks Mag1 and Madnoel :)

cheers

Craig
 
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Great labour price £15 well done!!!

LET THE FORUM KNOW THE FINAL OUTCOME

HAVE FUN
 

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Another simple thing you can do.
Most resistor packs in this model fail in time. It controls the heater blower speed. Failure causes the blower to only work on top speed.
I'ts located in blower assembly which has probably been removed to get the engine out.
Open it up and you'll see a green ceramic wound resistor with wires coming from it.
You'll notice it has what looks like a diode soldered to it.
This is a thermal fuse. As the blower gets older more heat is generated and the fuse fails as it is rated too low.
Nip to maplins and get the next rating up. Don't go too high as it is a safety feature after all.
Swap it for existing one. It'll save you a 100quid job in future as it's more or less inevitable these pop in time. Cost will be about a quid.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Hi Happysaks,

Thanks for that, will up the rating and get it replaced first thing monday morning as i am hoping that it should be back together by the end of next week all being well.

Many Thanks

Craig
 
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