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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, I've just joint and I've not long bought a low mileage Laguna II with FSH. Since buying it, I have had to replace the rear bushes, rear discs, ball joints, track rod ends, inner steering arms and tyres. Fortunately, I have done the work myself but I am amazed that such a new car can have so many suspension niggles. It still clonks when I turn left or right. Is this a common laguna II fault? I suspect suspension top mounts as there is no play in the wheel bearings, the anti roll bar links and bushes are good. I had a Laguna 1 and that had spring problems but I've inspected them carefully and can see no cracks or breaks. Can anyone help!!!!!!!:crazy:
 

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Hi goon and welcome to the forum i have a 2002 espace and the balls on the end of my steering rack are in bits and the car has only done 37k and 4 and half years old:crazy: :steam: and the front wheel bearing. Iam sure some lag owners will help you soon all the best Donald.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Donald. i know that one about the rack all too well. It took me 2 days to drop the front subframe and put on two new ball joints. Cost £32 the pair. Time = far too long.
 

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Hi donald,

Welcome to the forum. I bought a Laguna II a few weeks ago. It was very cheap but has some problems (engine running rough, electric windows not working, tyre warning light flashing).
I have fixed the tyre warning light & worked to how to fix the windows cheaply. The rough engine is down to one cylinder not firing, need to get a compression tester tomorrow. I have ruled out spark plugs, coil injector.
My car has done 125K but no sevice history so I dont know what has ben replaced, alternetor looks new, but nothing else does.

Have you replaced all those parts to try to cure the cluncking noise?

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Gary,
The rear bushes were clunking all on their own but yes, I did the rest to try and find the problem. The steering arms were well and truly knackered and one ball joint was very wobbly. Have got to say it drives really nicely now.

lee
 

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Hi goon,

I have had a 2002 Laguna from almost new (ex demo), and Ive put over 90k on over the years. It has had numerous problems including the rear bush issue, however that was about 20k ago. It has over the last 2 months or so started to make knocking noises from the nearside front, especially during cornering. It was in to a Renault dealer for another problem (rough running, which needed a decoke at £1200..!!!!!), and I mentioned the knocking. They said it needed a new suspension strut on the nearside, and an offside lower balljoint.
Subsequent to this (and a non Renault garage decoke quote of £800...) I took the car to the non Renault garage yesterday and they gave the car suspension/steering a thorough check and could only find a knocking exhaust system. They say everything else is fine with no play at all.
Very strange....

Maybe the exhaust 'clonk' is what you may have?

Cheers
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Bob,
Thanks for your reply. I'll shimmy under the car and take a sneaky peaky. I have ordered some top mounts anyhow and will check the struts and springs when I take them off. I just can't think what else it might be. I really thought I had it with the steering arms but it wasn't a waste of time because they needed doing. Taking the front subframe out is no easy job when you do it on your own!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Could well be. Suspect that is could also be steering joints as well. Depending on how practical you are, this is how its done:

First thing, jack the car up and remove the wheels. Next, grab the steering arms and give them a firm tug. Any play could indicate that the steering arms have gone. If unsure, get a ball joint separator and crack off the steering arms. If they flop down, they're knackered. They should stay up on their own.

To check the ball joints, pop the wheel back on and grab firmly top and bottom and give a good push and a tug forwards and backwards. If there is play, then it is likely that they have gone. If you are still unsure, unscrew the big nut at the bottom (24mm spanner) and get your ball joint separator and split the two. You're going to have a bit of a job removing the hub from the threaded rod. Haynes recommend not removing the nut completely to save the thread. Once free, give the threaded rod a push. It should offer a fair degree of resistance. If no, then they are kaput!

To replace the bottom ball joints:
(Ideally, its best to have the subframe off of the car but it can be done in situ)
1. Use an angle grinder to grind of the three mounting lugs - This is time consuming! Do this from the bottom as you don't want to nick the arm. (Obviously, usual safety protocol applies)
2. Fit new ball joint. There are no specs for tightening but I have been told unofficially that about 60Nm is right for the small bolts. The large bolt is about 110Nm.

Ball joints cost £12 a side but I have been told that an average garage will charge £250 to fit.

To replace steering arms
This is where you will, unfortunately, need to cry! You need to remove the whole front subframe with the power steering rack in situ. Haynes manuals give the process. Steering arms are £16 a side but need to be put on with the rack and subframe off of the car. Major expense for a garage to do. I can advise if needs be but its not a job for the faint hearted. Good luck.
 

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thanks for all that, the only thing is i would not no were to start i am not mechanically minded,but all the info is great i am just looking for someone who can do it with out paying crazy money when i find someone i am sure the advice will help cheers.
 

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Bob,
I have now traced my rough running problem to low compression on 1 cylinder. I now have the head off,1 exhaust valve is not sealing and 1 inlet is also a bit suspect on the bad cylinder.
There was not a significant amount of coke on the head, I am surprised your car needs a decoke (mine has done 125,000). I would recommend you ask the garage to do a compression test - poor compression will cause rough running but I am not convinced coke will - it usually causes pinking when the engine is hot and working hard.
The £1200 for a decoke is very expensive even for a main dealer, £800 is better but still seems a bit high. Ask then exactly what is included, new valves? new timing belt? etc.
The job I am now doing is very similar to doing a decoke. Cost will be £40-50 gasket set, £20 new ead bolts, £15 new timing belt, Valves £6 each (upto 16 required).
Your kncking exhaust could be a cracked manifold -quite common, if it is cracked the manifold is easier to replace while the head is off for the decoke.

Gary
 

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Hi Gary,

Its to late, Ive had the decoke done.. In the end I went to my local garage. They charged £818 in the end and that included all consumables.
The Renault garage had told me 'Oh its a common problem with the ide engine...!'.

When my local garage did the decoke he did say that one of the cylinders had low compression (which Renault hadn't spotted/reported) and it was the buildup that was stopping the valve seating correctly. His actual words were ' it looks like the head off of an old morris minor that hasn't been serviced for 40 years' and 'what fuel have you been putting in this?'
I didnt get to see the head but paid the money and was just glad to have a car engine that didnt run like a lawnmower.
They also re aligned the exhaust system but the clonk is still there. I'll check out your suggestions next...
Cheers
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi All,
Have said this in another post but a friend of mine who worked for Renault, Peugeot and is now with the AA reckons that diesel drivers cause a lot of these problems because they don't thrash their engines every once in a while. He also advocated the use of a diesel additive every so often when filling up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sorry, meant to say both. Its cause we all drive too nicely...
 

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Hi Bob,
Good to hear your car is now running well. It was sensible of the gagrage to doa compression test, it only takes a few minutes and gives you an idea about what to lok for when the engine si stripped.

Coke buld up can be caused by low quality fuel but is also caused by the low quality oil. The crankcase fumes are drawn into thte inlet manfold to be burnt by the engine (for emission reasons). Using good quality synthetic engine oil and changing more often that the recommended service intervals helps reduce the build up. Is worth checking all the breather pipes are free of blockages as well.

I removed the valves form my head today, all the exhaust valves were pitted and needed to be reground - nearly considerd replacing them. The inlets on the bad cylinder were bent - not visibly but showed up when I tried to gring them back in. The same story with the inet valves on the other 3 cylinders. Considering the state of the valves I am surprised 3 cylinders managed to give 200psi. Obviously a previous cam belt replacement gone wrong with 125,000 miles or wear on the exhaust valves for good measure.

Regards

Gary

Gary
 
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