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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,
I'm cleaning the upper manifold out, and plan to clean the lower manifold too. It's tremendously filthy. There's 12 bolts holding it, but one of them I can't find a way to remove. The reason is due to poor clearance as the attachments will show. The service manual says to remove right wheel and wheel arch liner. Even with this removed, I still can't get good enough access.

The bolt is long, so It can't be pulled out all the way, as it will hit the metal on the left side (see images) but I think this is OK as the bolt doesn't need to fully come out in order to dis-attach from the actual part that holds the lower manifold.

Help please?

MEGANE III 1.6 Petrol 2009, K4M 848 Engine.
 

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Premium Member
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1,807 Posts
How about a ring ratchet spanner that you only have to move through a small angle in between clicks?
These have 72 teeth gears so it would click every 5 degrees- just an example, I don't know the size- bit pricey though.
 

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3,591 Posts
Failing that you could remove the engine mount and with a jack and block of wood under the sump, shift that end of the motor around until the fastener lines up with the peephole and get a socket and extension on it. It's the way I get at the idler pulley for the timing belt.
 

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Premium Member
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794 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thank you very much for the help everyone, it is highly appreciated.

OK, please do bare with me on this one. How will the ratchet spanners give me an advantage in terms of leverage over a normal ring spanner?

Regarding engine mounts, I don't have any experience in that area. I wouldn't know what to remove unfortunately, or where to locate what requires removal.

Thank you.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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22,602 Posts
The ratchet spanner means you only have to locate in on once, then ratchet it.
And as Spacey says, only 5 degrees per click with decent ones.... slow but if in tight space where you cannot give a decent turn on a spanner, works well.
looking at that bolt/position, may be better with an offset/cranked Ring spanner.
Readily available, sets or singles.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thank you.

I've checked the links. Not sure if the ratchet spanner will help crack the bolt loose, because its more pure leverage I need. Or have I missed something?

No room for a "longer" 13mm spanner either (via above the engine bay). Perhaps a long offset spanner via the wheel arch will do it? I'll have leverage. But no guarantee the spanner will reach without obstruction.

Unfortunately they'll be no room for a torque wrench for reinstallation of the bolt. Should be 46nm but I'll have no way to measure.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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38,186 Posts
Get a trolley jack with a block of wood, place the wood and jack under the sump as close as possible to the crank pulley,
Jack up until you see the engine slightly move.
Undo/loosen the bolts holding the TOP part of the mount onto the engine,
DONT panic if it seems like the engine is dropping.
Now undo/loosen all other bolts holding the mounting to the chassis,
Remove all bolts .
Lift the mounting out of the way.
NOW lower the engine JUST enough to get a socket on it, Remove the bolt you are struggling with..

TO REFIT TOP MOUNT
Raise the engine up
WHEN you go to refit the top mount, just be careful as some have a locating peg on the mounting that goes to the ENGINE , make sure this is located, .
Put the bolts holding this part on , in first, just pinch them up enough that the mount wont move.
Lower the engine enough that you can then get the other bolts in position, .
You will have to push/pull the engine for the holes to be visible,
Once happy, and JACK is out Tighten all mount bolts back up
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you for the detailed post Ours:
I'm not confident doing this on my vehicle. If I had an old car to practise on (as you've advised me to do before) then I'd do it and rest assured, I will refer to your above post. Reason: my fear is snapping or bending something if I accidently lower the jack all the way. I do hope you understand my concerns.
 

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Reason: my fear is snapping or bending something if I accidently lower the jack all the way. I do hope you understand my concerns.
I put a safety stop under there. Either an axle stand or a round of a tree even better.
Can't trust them hydraulicky spawn of satan things :)
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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38,186 Posts
IF you can lower your engine low enough to snap something, then yours will be a first You are lowering less than 2 inches.
We lower a hell of a lot more than that to change a timing belt on one..
Stop being a pussy, get the wood and the jack, and get on with it..
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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He will need to rock the engine to align the Engine Mount to Chassis Pete.
On a scissor jack, he wont be able to.
The engine will automatically tilt back towards the bulk head...

He needs have a couple of hours with me, then he'd panic LOL

Sent Tim grey, he only spent one day with me

179722
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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9,244 Posts
A reminder to unscrew the lowering screw on the trolley jack very gradually so it lowers in a slow controlled way.
 

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Premium Member
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794 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Would I need to touch the lower engine mount, or would I just be concentrating my efforts simply on the upper engine mount?

Cheers.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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22,602 Posts
Just the upper.
Follow Ourkid's instructions and you will not be far wrong.
And if concerned over your ability to lower in a controlled fashion, use a second jack, block of wood, axle stand to create a stop (as Brendan advised)
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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38,186 Posts
post a picture of your mount, Something is telling me.
3 bolts at the top. go into the Cylinder head
3 or 4 bolts holding the mount to the chassis
Top 3 bolts out, other bolts out mount lifts up and off..

While your there, might as well change cam belt and pump ,
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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