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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
I'm removing the lower manifold. It is metal. It attaches to the engine block. It uses a thin metal gasket between the manifold and engine block. I have a spare gasket, Renault OE.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Yes, you need the room, for how long it takes.
When working on engines, you will find at times easier to remove parts that will hinder
"First as Last"
You will still need to get in to clean surfaces, as much room as possible is always the way .
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Cheers!

What would happen if the engine was raised with the top mount still installed? (Bottom mount uninstalled of course).

As it stands, without lowering/raising the engine, the bolt can't be unscrewed all the way due to clearance. However, only a small portion of the bolt actually screws into the lower manifold, meaning full bolt removal isn't required.

There would have to be enough clearance for the bolt to come out, just enough to release the lower manifold, if the engine was to be left in place. Just thought I'd show and share this. See images, which should help to explain.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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What bottom mount
Leave the dog bone alone.
Undo the top engine mount, remove it jack the engine up..
Its a 10 minute job, why are you fixating on this part of the job.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Bottom mount would allow the engine to twist but not necessarily get the movement you need.
And no point in jacking an engine with the mount at that end connected, will only try lifting the whole shebang on that mount... and bust summat.
On my Kia, to do the timing belt, engine has to go up and down like a fiddlers elbow. And top mount on belt end is not enough to get the lift/drop you really need. Gearbox end mount needs to be released as well.
That's a 2.9litre lump with cast iron block and a feckin heavy gear box, what are you worried on with a tiddly engine ?
It is common on vehicles, controllable and with a modicum of care safe.
Please trust us.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Guys, I think there has been a communication error.

Ours, I may have misunderstood your post. I thought you were saying to remove the lower mount before raising. Sorry.

Dancingdad, I absolutely trust the information given. I've just misunderstood a few things because this is a new area for me.

Sometimes I do come across the odd thing I find very challenging. This is just one of those times. But with the help of you all, I know I'll get there. Thank you :)
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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It is simple.
You are over thinking the job..
Just make sure you have slackened bolts before removing.
Your engine will automatically fall back DIFF is heavy and this pulls the engine back to the bulkhead and down..Your bolt you are concerned about, make sure if you cannot get in with a socket that you use a combination spanner as in an open ender one end, and the ring end on the bolt, with another ring/combination spanner locked in the jaws
of the spanner thats on your bolt, not only will this give you leverage, but one quick sharp pull, and the bolt will undo easily ..
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Don't panic Bradders.
We do forget that others may not have our experience, mine is I've been playing with cars, takin them apart for over 40 years now, plus I have nigh on 50 years as an engineer to fall back on.
Ourkid does it for a living. And has done for a long time.
And what seems simple to us may seem alien to you.
We would not steer you wrong mate.
Do remember, there is no such animal as a stupid question, except when you didn't ask it and get in the mire, that's stupid.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Promise you one thing Bradders, we wont ever let you get hurt..
Its good you are thinking about the job.
BUT then IF takes over ( Initial fear )..
Get past that stage, and you wont go far wrong
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
It is simple.
You are over thinking the job..
Just make sure you have slackened bolts before removing.
Your engine will automatically fall back DIFF is heavy and this pulls the engine back to the bulkhead and down..Your bolt you are concerned about, make sure if you cannot get in with a socket that you use a combination spanner as in an open ender one end, and the ring end on the bolt, with another ring/combination spanner locked in the jaws
of the spanner thats on your bolt, not only will this give you leverage, but one quick sharp pull, and the bolt will undo easily ..
Thank you.
Let me see if I have this correct. Raise engine slightly with trolley jack and wood. Slacken bolts holding top mount to engine, then top mount to chassis. Remove all bolts and mount. Raise engine.

Don't panic Bradders.
We do forget that others may not have our experience, mine is I've been playing with cars, takin them apart for over 40 years now, plus I have nigh on 50 years as an engineer to fall back on.
Ourkid does it for a living. And has done for a long time.
And what seems simple to us may seem alien to you.
We would not steer you wrong mate.
Do remember, there is no such animal as a stupid question, except when you didn't ask it and get in the mire, that's stupid.
I appreciate this. It can be challenging for me. Still in the learning stage. I've come a long way thanks to you guys and others on this forum. I trust what you all say and follow it to the best of my ability.

Promise you one thing Bradders, we wont ever let you get hurt..
Its good you are thinking about the job.
BUT then IF takes over ( Initial fear )..
Get past that stage, and you wont go far wrong
I trust the guidance given. I'll try to not let the "IF's" get the better of me as this may hinder progression. I don't mean to frustrate anyone with questions. The support you've all given me means more than I can put into words.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
I've read your "refit" instructions Ours, and I am struggling a bit mate.

Do I raise the engine, install mount to engine, lower until holes match with chassis, install remaining bolts, remove jack, torque?

Just watched a video. He left top mount all as one unit (40:20): Cam Belt MEGANE III
Brainwave! Why not just remove bolts holding mount to chassis, then raise?

Once cleared up, I'm ready to rock and roll, if I have to raise the engine. Got wood ready! :)
Cheers.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Make sure mount is back on the engine.
You can now lower slowly and align the mount to the holes in the chassis as you will have to pull the engine forward slightly,
I use a number 3 Philips screwdriver to aid alignment ( Screwdriver through one of the holes on the mount, then guide the screwdriver into the chassis hole , pull on the screwdriver to align holes this allows me to put other bolts in, )
YOU dont need all that wood, you want the rectangular piece of wood , .
Put the wood so the longest length goes from front to rear.make sure it wont trap on the subframe as you raise the engine ..
 
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