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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hoping for some help please if poss.

Got a fair fright, battery was disconnected but terminal slipped back to touch terminal and we didn't realise.

(Mark 2 phase 1, 172 sport) 2000 year

Removing aftermarket boss metal contact was made and fried a wire, fair bit of white smoke appeared and horn went off and kept going off until took terminal off (and realised!) thought the car was going to go on fire but thankfully did not.

Behind the steering wheel a black and red wire run up behind and goes into a plastic black box (think its called a squid going by google) both stalks attached to this. The red wire you could tell was badly fried almost a melted look.

Have left car now disconnected but could someone help -

1. will we need to buy new squid?
2. what do the red and black wire do?
3. we did disconnect the red and black wires to move car (started, no horn this time) but lots of plasticly crunching coming from steering wheel. Didn't sound great.
4. can it be rewired ?
Looks like black and red wire run into squid then come out, the wires coming out look okay but wondering what's inside the squid too?

Everything still works, indicators, lights, even horn. Horn is at the end of the stalk (left one) seems to be the connecting of the wires which keep the horn on.

Both feel idiots (brother was with me) hopefully can help not sure what too do.

☹😑
 

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Grand Scenic 1.6 2007
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Hi Scott and Welcome:)
Not good news I'm afraid.
You will have to expose the fried wire along it's full length and find out what other wires it has melted and where.
Crispy crunch noises in the wheel means that will have to be opened up as well to see what damage has been done to the airbag clockspring or squib.
Until you know the state of the steering wheel internals I would avoid reconnecting the battery just in case the airbag gets triggered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
We have an aftermarket steering wheel, so no airbag but all noted and battery not connected.

Thanks for advise. Surprised everything else works no dash lights or error message when started, only issue was the horn staying on!
 

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Melting wires can provide permanent earth paths for any neighbouring wire they burn into. Hence things on all the time.
 

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@Scott_i
If you fit a new clockspring (squib) you have to make sure the steering is absolutely centred first and the squib is aligned so when you turn it both ways the squib behaves within it's range. (If you disregard that and it isn't aligned the first time you turn the wheel to one extreme you chance wrecking the squib)
I've never done one myself just read about it so can't provide details of the procedure but you should be able to find it.
The clockspring is there to to maintain continuity of any wiring that moves with the wheel, like buttons if it has any, or horns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for this information.

The black and wire behind the steering wheel, what does this do? we unplugged the two wires going into the connectors on the squib (black pastic piece) and I am wondering of this is why its now crunching when turning? I am also wondering if the wire from the steering wheel to squib could be sorted, it looked like the red wire was the damaged one.

But curious if this could have ran into the squib and damaged further and why horn is going off.
 

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If the squib is crunching when you turn the wheel it's fubar, by some means you put a lot of current through those wires, which must have gone into the squib and melted/heated the wires (continuity paths) inside it. The squib is a a flat coiled multicore wire with a connection at each end. As you turn the wheel one way or the other the coils get tighter or looser. It should move smoothly with no scrunch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If the squib is crunching when you turn the wheel it's fubar, by some means you put a lot of current through those wires, which must have gone into the squib and melted/heated the wires (continuity paths) inside it. The squib is a a flat coiled multicore wire with a connection at each end. As you turn the wheel one way or the other the coils get tighter or looser. It should move smoothly with no scrunch.
If the black and red wire were plugged back into the squid would this potentially stop it crunching? Or not electrically operated?

Realise its lucky knackered if shorted.

Do you know what the red and black wire do?

Thanks
 

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Someone else may know what the wiring is, I don't have a diagram. I explained what the squib is and how it works (look at the video link I posted), it isn't electrically operated as such its basically a flexible ribbon cable. If you connect to it you risk shorting something else out, it's knackered if its scrunching. You have nothing to lose at this stage by removing it and seeing if you can look inside without breaking it further - photographing as you go and get any part numbers (probably printed on the squib)
I can't understand how you managed to short things out in the first place, what state of dismantling was it in when the battery was accidentally reconnected? Surely there weren't any exposed wires at that stage as everything is on plugs? If you've connected stuff yourself I'd either disconnect everything you've done before you reconnect the battery OR get someone who understands the wiring to make sure what you've done is correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Someone else may know what the wiring is, I don't have a diagram. I explained what the squib is and how it works (look at the video link I posted), it isn't electrically operated as such its basically a flexible ribbon cable. If you connect to it you risk shorting something else out, it's knackered if its scrunching. You have nothing to lose at this stage by removing it and seeing if you can look inside without breaking it further - photographing as you go and get any part numbers (probably printed on the squib)
I can't understand how you managed to short things out in the first place, what state of dismantling was it in when the battery was accidentally reconnected? Surely there weren't any exposed wires at that stage as everything is on plugs? If you've connected stuff yourself I'd either disconnect everything you've done before you reconnect the battery OR get someone who understands the wiring to make sure what you've done is correct.
We were removing the after market boss and for leverage used a spanner it seems the wire contacted this, sparked then a fair bit of white smoke, then proper panic! Happened fairly quick, we didn't realise the terminal moved and made contact with the battery.

Thanks for video and explanation.
 

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Before this happened Your air bag light worked and came on? ( Aftermarket steering wheel with no air bag fitted )
Does your airbag light still work now (MOT LAWS)
 

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@Scott_i
were you were working near the airbag and hadn't disconnected the battery first (and then waited 10 mins) ?!, or had the airbag already been removed?
Either way you should have disconnected the battery.
You don't want to be in the line of fire if airbag deploys (unless you're in an accident).
(I'm not posting this as an I told you so, but to warn others.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So the car already has an aftermarket steering wheel (no airbag) the battery was disconnected before starting and everything was fine. Only removing wheel for potential refurb and was taking boss off to put original back on. The terminal for the battery moved and was touching the battery without my knowledge. Trying to remove boss, with a metal socket type wrench it made contact with the black and red wires, sparked, horn went off (sounded louder than normal) then white smoke, safe to say panick! I took plastic base from below steering wheel off asap by which point it had calmed down, removed terminal (again) and horn stopped.

Everything seemed fine, lights, indicators etc only thing was the horn just kept going off.

I removed more of the squib yesterday and believe the inside has had it, it seems both stocks are fine therefore meaning I can hunt just for the squid? I have hopefully attached a picture, does anyone have any knowledge of this and what I need. I have seen a few online but numbers (on the top) seem slightly different but the squid looks the same?

Automotive tire Eyewear Gadget Audio equipment Font
 

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The 7700 numbers look like Renault slip ring part numbers. The 616 numbers are stalk switch numbers. The same part can have different numbers in different cars and parts can be assembled in different combinations for different models. Slightly different might work but it's a minefield.
On the subject of battery cables, even disconnected they have a memory of their usual position and will try to get back there. This is especially true of an earth cable that comes in from above as it were as on many cars. I'm a bit ocd and the earth cable gets a plastic bag on it and the battery terminal gets a cover of some sort as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Lesson learnt here!

I have found one online with matching numbers for the two long blue numbers but the shorter blue number is different, the also do not note any other numbers. It seems some relate to the stocks but cannot define which number is for the squib. Any help would be appreciated once more.
 

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Don't mean to sound preachy. It's for the benefit of people who will find your experience useful.
That short number could be something of less significance like a batch or date. I'm guessing here :)
Almost certain the 7700 is the squib/slip/clockspring/ribbon cable reel/etc etc. That part has a lot of names.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Not at all, all good and helpful.

On the phone to Renault parts department, why do these people always seem so unhelpful. Anyway gave numbers on squid, said they aren't showing up, gave reg plate, still not showing up so needs to put a request into Reno France too see if numbers have maybe been updated, this perhaps explains why numbers change on different units.
 

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@Scott_i
Have you tried looking on HERE
(vin required)
(I thought you had to have original airbags present and no warning lights to pass an MOT? Is that not the case?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
@Scott_i
Have you tried looking on HERE
(vin required)
(I thought you had to have original airbags present and no warning lights to pass an MOT? Is that not the case?)
Thank you for this! what a great website. I interestingly have found two slightly different squibs -

7701045277 - Valeo
7701045278 - Lucas

It then seems you will get two different types of stalks, and therefore they need need to match accordingly. I have hopefully ordered a new part online (used but new) having called about it does not seem Reno make these parts anymore? :/

Thanks all for help hoping this will sort it all.
 
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