Independent Renault Forums banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
You will need to hire or buy a bush removal tool for this job. You will also need two 24mm spanners/sockets a 17mm and a 16mm spanner (not hex)



Chock the front wheels and put the car into gear. Loosen off the rear wheel bolts and then jack up the rear of the car. Make sure that car is on a level surface before doing this.
Support the car on axle stands. Do not jack up upon the rear beam.
Remove the rear wheels.
Spray liberal amounts of penetrating fluid onto the three mounting bolts (either side) that hold the bush and beam in place. Spray the anti-roll bar securing bolts as well. Also spray the lower damper mount.
Support the beam with either a jack or axle stand.
Unclip the hanbrake cable from the mounting plate.
Working one side at a time, loosen the anti- roll bar bolt with the 16 mm ring spanner. Use more penetrating fluid as you go.
Now, using a 16 mm socket and extension bar, loosen off the three bolts holding the mounting plate in place.
Now loosen off the lower damper mount with a 17mm socket. This may well need several dosings with WD40.
The beam is now loose (remember, only one side at a time) and can be slid backwards.
Soak the old bush in penetrating fluid. Gease the threads of the removal tool.This is vital and should be done every time the tool is used.
Place the larger cup on top of the beam and the smaller on the bottom. Hold the top bolt of the tool with a 24mm spanner and tighten the bottom with a 24 mm long socket. The bush will slowly be extracted. (A diagram is provided with the tool)
Clean out the cavity left and then lubricate the sides of the new bush to be inserted with grease. Insert the new bush into the cavity. (Make sure you have selected the correct side for your beam. The internal part of the bushes are different. Check also the orientation of your original bush)
Reassemble the tool, this time with the smaller cup on top and the larger on the bottom. Tighten until the bush is inserted.
Reassemble the back axle and bracket. (Don't forget the handbrake cable clip). torque bolts to 80Nm/ 59lbf/ft. The rear shock should be 105Nm 77lbf ft
Repeat on other side. WARNING! Take care not to damage brake lines when doing this task.
When doing the job, I recommend only using genuine modified Renault bushes. These are black and are stamped with a renault part number.

:)
 

·
Tourerman
Joined
·
4,838 Posts
Your like me, always look for a way to do the job an easier cheaper way, sometimes you can sometimes you can't.

Fantastic post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I need to replace mine. Can you clarify that you only loosen one side at a time and that by sliding the beam back that allows enough room to get the tool onto the bush. Or does the beam need to be dropped down by about 5" to 6". Also the bolt in the centre of the bush looks like a torx headed bolt. Is this right. How long does it roughly take each side. Would like to have ago at it. Renault charge just under £300. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
You do one side at a time. Allow for 30 mins each side.
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
southcambssimon
There are 2 on eBay 1 is a buy now other is for auction type in item no130175758221 in the car parts section, you can also get bushes at a fracion of the cost from a dealer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I'm suprized by how much people think the bushes are from Renault. I did mine and for the pair from Renault was £39. Not a lot more than the non genuine ones listed on Ebay etc.
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Mine cost £50 each plus the labour so there must be a big mark up by the dealer :mad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Got quoted £37.77 EACH from Renault today?
ebay prices £39.99. (a pair) Earlier mentioned are Modified bushes - have they been improved from Renault over the original fit? Looks like I'll have to buy a tool, off ebay £70....and put it back on ebay afterwards:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I paid £35.66+vat for genuine Renault bushes. Part no. 7701209534. They come as a kit(pair). This was from Cardiff Renault.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
205 Posts
Hi I did the job a few weeks ago, You could use a wrench in place of one of the spanners, it is only to act as a backup to stop the tool turning. For wedges a couple of bricks or blocks of wood. I found that the bolt at the top of the shocker was easier to remove than the bottom one. I bought the tool second hand from ebay for £42 and resold it for £54 when the job was done. Why do people insist on genuine renault parts when they are the parts that failed in the first place!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,861 Posts
I guess I'm committed now - had a torque wrench but just bought a 32 piece 1/2 inch set for it; plus the 2 tonne kit above; add to that about 70 for the tool and 30 for the bushes and its almost as much as renault would charge :rofl:

Would be cool if I can offload the part on fleabay afterwards though :)

Cheers!

:d

ps I think I'd for genuine renault filters though?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I dod the job a couple of weeks back now, just toreport my experience. It was generally pretty straight forward. Took 3 hrs from start to finish (this also included jet wshinG under the cay 'cos it was full of road salt grime&crud)!
The trickiest bit was lining up the last bolt that goes through the bush, it seemed to put up quite a fight, but a quick brew and a few choice words persuaded it in.
Need to put the tool back on ebay this w/e!
I'm personally not convinced there was much wrong with the old ones though, seemed to be just as much movement as before, and I could see no cracking on the ones that came off?? But good enough to get through the MoT re-test. Hmmm:rolleyes: .
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,861 Posts
Cool :) Was it knocking or was it just the MOT that said you had to have it done? Mine is definitely knocking and I'm hoping I might also notice some improvement in the handling...

Cheers!

:d
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
No knocking was evident, just the MoT was failed on the offside bush. Can't say I noticed any difference in handling or NVH after changing them.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,861 Posts
On a repeat of top gear on Dave they had a re-engineered XJS so it was - for 35k + mint donor - a decent car. They showed the original bushes and they were no bigger than a stack of 7 or 8 £1 coins! May also said they were of low grade rubber. You can guess what happened. I was shocked at the size of the lag bushes - they look tiny in the pictures but they're actually fairly chunky. So I reckon they're not bad ;) Comapared to an XJS!!! :rofl:

ps has anyone else noticed in the cold weather the knocking is not so bad ... perhaps because the bushes are frozen?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Just to add my experiences after following these instructions:

1 - I removed the top rear damper bolt rather than the botton (The damper didn't come free after removing the bottom bolt)

2 - One of the bushes (offside) is slotted to allow for side to side movement of the axle when lining it up. I did the offside bush first and then found when I came to do the nearside it wouldn't line up with the hole on the chassis (the old bushes were very worn) and my efforts to get the bolt in could have damaged the thread on the bolt and chassis. To resolve this I would advise jacking the entire rear of the car up and supporting from both sides and removing both rear wheels before starting the job rather than working on one side at a time. Then start on the passenger side first but be aware that if it doesn't line up you may need to loosen off the drivers side and use a crowbar to lever the axle into position.

3 - you may find you need to loosen/remove the anti roll bar from both sides to allow enough movement to get the tool/bush/bolt in when working on the nearside bush.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top