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Discussion Starter #1
Have covered this in a another thread but...
This is how to do it, (sorry, no photos)
1. Chock the rear wheels,
2. Jack up the car and support on two axle stands and remove the front wheels. (Take note of which wheel goes which side. Put the wrong one on and the car will not drive!!!!!)
3. Remove the two plastic trim screws either side of the struts in the engine bay. (Be patient and they'll come off easily). Pull back the weather strip and lift back the plastic cover.

4. The strut has one nut (I think 20mm -Can be done with a large spark plug socket) and two 13mm bolts. Undo and store safely)

5. In the wheel arch, there are two 20mm bolts holding the strut to the hub. Soak these with WD40, taking care not to spray the discs. Then, using your plug socket, unscrew the nuts. These will be tight.
6. Top tip!!!! Put a jack underneath the lower ball joint to support the hub. If you let the hub slip, you can accidently drop out the driveshafts!!!!
7.The bolts will still be in place because they have locating splines on them. Put the socket on and turn them just until they 'give'. you can then tap them out with a soft hammer or mallet.

8. The final bolt to remove is the anti roll bar droplink. This is a 16 mm nut and requires a spanner and allen key. Hold the threaded rod with the allen key and slowly work the nut back and forth to remove. Take your time as these can be stubborn and require liberal dosings of wd40.

9. The strut is now free and can be removed from the car. take care not to hit the wheel arch is you go.

10. Lock the strut in a vice by its mounting point using an appropriate piece of wood between the blades and not on the shaft. Using spring compressors, retract the spring. You should now be able to push back the bearing/ mount assembly to reveal a 17mm nut. Using an allen key to hold the shaft in place, unscrew using a spanner. You will now be able to lift off the bearing and rubber mount. Refitting is the reversal of removal.

Remember to fit new locking nuts all the way round.

Warning - We are not stupid on here but removing springs can be lethal. Don't use any home made tools buy a decent set of spring compressors.

Refer to Haynes or other manual for torque settings
:eek:
 

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Nice one goon, did try to give you some rep points but I gotta spread the love around before I can give you any more;)

Photo's would have been helpful but hey, you don't get everything in life:rofl: . Still a very helpful post.

Just one question......I keep seeing people mentioning about the torque settings for particular bolts etc, do you need a specialist wrench etc for this?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, you need a torque wrench. Can be got from eBay or bought for about £20 but to be honest, I'd go for about £50 at least. Its a tool you'll keep for life. I have three. Without a doubt, the best I have is a Halfords professional. Much superior to my mate's Snap On and apparently made in England. 5 year guarantee too. Every piece of work you do on the car should be torqued correctly, even the wheel nuts 105 Nm on a Lag II
 
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