Bit of a PITA to do this but quite manageable if you have a few basic skills.
Tools required are a half decent socket set, torx bits, 13mm spanner, exhaust paste (which I forgot).
Remove Wiper Arms
Ideally this should be done for access reasons. Each is held on with one nut and then should just pull off (might require special puller tool). I couldn't get mine off so worked around them.
Remove Scuttle Panels
Simple procedure as only held in place with a few torx screws along the front edge and either side. If you haven't managed to remove the wiper arms you'll only be able to remove the passenger side scuttle.
Remove Top Bulkhead Panel
Dunno if that's what it's called but it's the panel hidden underneath the scuttle panels. Again, easily removed as held in with two 10mm bolts either side. Again, if you haven't managed to remove wiper arms you can still move the driver side scuttle panel enough to get to the two bolts that side to remove it.
Remove Air Intake and Resonator
Easy as pie, two torx screws hold the front of the air intake just above the grill. Once these have been removed (or broken like I have done) undo the rubber retaining band before the resonator box and pull the rear of the box off of the air filter housing.
Remove Air Filter Housing
Two torx screws hold the air filter housing at the top. Undo these and pull the top out and up.
Remove Air Box on Rear of Throttle Body
You'll need to unclip the electrical connection at the rear drivers side. There is also a pipe of some description, again on the drivers side that needs pulling off. Then it's a case of two bolts (hidden behind the intake manifold), make sure it's the two smaller ones closest to the bulkhead as the larger ones are for the intake manifold!! Once these are undone you should be able to push the box off of the throttle housing and manoeuvre it up up and away.....or to the passenger side if you haven't managed to remove the wiper arms
Undo Flange Bolts on exhaust
Once you've removed all the above out of your engine bay you will have enough room to be able to remove two of the 13mm (I think) flange bolts that hold the exhaust to the exhaust manifold. The third bolt is accessible from underneath the car (just).
Undo Exhaust Clamp
Just behind the Lambda (O2) sensor is a clamp that needs undoing to allow the exhaust to separate. Simple case of a couple of 13mm nuts. You can either remove the Lambda probe now or just uncilp the electrical connection and remove once you've got the catalytic convertor off.
Removing catalytic converter
Now, this is the real PITA part. Haynes manual suggests lowering the subframe by 20mm at the front and 40mm at the rear. This method includes undoing the steering rod/rack (something like that) and lowering by use of threaded rods.
My method was to eff and jeff at it for a while and wiggle the darn thing out. I did manage it but it's not easy. It's a case of sort of cork screwing the pipe in all manner of directions to get it over the subframe. Now, if you choose this method the worse damage you will do is to make some dents in the heat shield, baring in mind the heat shield is only thin aluminium or the like I was quite surprised how much abuse it took :rofl:
Obviously, you choose this method at your own peril. If you can be bothered to lower the subframe then I'd suggest you do so
Refit in reverse
You should replace the gasket at the flange and use exhaust paste where the exhaust joins the rest of the system behind the catalytic converter.Hopefully that's been of some help.
I did start taking pictures but the dirtier my hands got and the more effing and jeffing I lost the will to take my phone out.
Tools required are a half decent socket set, torx bits, 13mm spanner, exhaust paste (which I forgot).
Remove Wiper Arms
Ideally this should be done for access reasons. Each is held on with one nut and then should just pull off (might require special puller tool). I couldn't get mine off so worked around them.
Remove Scuttle Panels
Simple procedure as only held in place with a few torx screws along the front edge and either side. If you haven't managed to remove the wiper arms you'll only be able to remove the passenger side scuttle.
Remove Top Bulkhead Panel
Dunno if that's what it's called but it's the panel hidden underneath the scuttle panels. Again, easily removed as held in with two 10mm bolts either side. Again, if you haven't managed to remove wiper arms you can still move the driver side scuttle panel enough to get to the two bolts that side to remove it.
Remove Air Intake and Resonator
Easy as pie, two torx screws hold the front of the air intake just above the grill. Once these have been removed (or broken like I have done) undo the rubber retaining band before the resonator box and pull the rear of the box off of the air filter housing.
Remove Air Filter Housing
Two torx screws hold the air filter housing at the top. Undo these and pull the top out and up.
Remove Air Box on Rear of Throttle Body
You'll need to unclip the electrical connection at the rear drivers side. There is also a pipe of some description, again on the drivers side that needs pulling off. Then it's a case of two bolts (hidden behind the intake manifold), make sure it's the two smaller ones closest to the bulkhead as the larger ones are for the intake manifold!! Once these are undone you should be able to push the box off of the throttle housing and manoeuvre it up up and away.....or to the passenger side if you haven't managed to remove the wiper arms
Undo Flange Bolts on exhaust
Once you've removed all the above out of your engine bay you will have enough room to be able to remove two of the 13mm (I think) flange bolts that hold the exhaust to the exhaust manifold. The third bolt is accessible from underneath the car (just).
Undo Exhaust Clamp
Just behind the Lambda (O2) sensor is a clamp that needs undoing to allow the exhaust to separate. Simple case of a couple of 13mm nuts. You can either remove the Lambda probe now or just uncilp the electrical connection and remove once you've got the catalytic convertor off.
Removing catalytic converter
Now, this is the real PITA part. Haynes manual suggests lowering the subframe by 20mm at the front and 40mm at the rear. This method includes undoing the steering rod/rack (something like that) and lowering by use of threaded rods.
My method was to eff and jeff at it for a while and wiggle the darn thing out. I did manage it but it's not easy. It's a case of sort of cork screwing the pipe in all manner of directions to get it over the subframe. Now, if you choose this method the worse damage you will do is to make some dents in the heat shield, baring in mind the heat shield is only thin aluminium or the like I was quite surprised how much abuse it took :rofl:
Obviously, you choose this method at your own peril. If you can be bothered to lower the subframe then I'd suggest you do so
Refit in reverse
You should replace the gasket at the flange and use exhaust paste where the exhaust joins the rest of the system behind the catalytic converter.Hopefully that's been of some help.
I did start taking pictures but the dirtier my hands got and the more effing and jeffing I lost the will to take my phone out.