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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys;

Well, I took my Megane Coupe to get this knocking checked out, turns out the CV boot has been replaced on the drivers side (prior to me getting the car) and has started to go. Also, it needs a new track rod end as there's play in this one too.

I'm confused as one place I went to is saying that I'm going to need a whole drive shaft as they only come in one piece (an indy garage told me this); but when I took it to a Halfords Autocentre to get a second opinion, they told me I could just get the joint - also, if it's just the joint, is it an easy DIY job?

Sooo..which is it? Any one know? It's a 1.6 Coupe with ABS, by the way.

Thanks muchly peeps! Very much appreciate any answers. :d:d:mechanic:
 

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Firstly, are there signs of the CV Joint failing or are you just getting the knocking of the track rod end?

If you want to do it your self then I would suggest buying the whole drive shaft as this will be soooo much easier than splitting a joint and fitting a new one, even if it can be done! You'll probably find it cheaper doing it yourself and replacing the whole shaft rather than a garage charging you to just replace the joint!

My advice, therefore, is (as long as your handy with a spanner) buy a track rod end and drive shaft and do it your self. Under £100 I would say.

I have bought a drive shaft of these people for both the Scenic and Subaru and haven't had any issues! Ring them up and ask them, they'll give you a definitive answer to your question :)
 
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There are one of two types of drive shaft fitted one is complete and you can't seperate the CV joint from the end drive shaft the other type you can.

So if you have a one piece drive shaft you won't be able to replace just the CV joint. Though you can replace the complete drive shaft for one that does have a removable CV joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hmmm, thanks guys!

I might just get the drivers side track rod end (this is the only one with play) and drive shaft done at my local indy. I'm pretty good with a spanner and I try to sort most things myself, unfortunately I just don't have the time to do.

Scatz, there's no sign of the boot splitting and the auto centre said that it looks like it had already been replaced (probably to repack with grease) So I'm just getting the knocking (but only when I'm on the gas and turning - if I coast, there's no knocking!) :d
 
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there's no sign of the boot splitting and the auto centre said that it looks like it had already been replaced (probably to repack with grease) So I'm just getting the knocking (but only when I'm on the gas and turning - if I coast, there's no knocking!) :d
I'm sure there's lots of times when CV boots get replaced but the grease doesn't ? Had this on one of my brothers cars last year. The joint was making a slight noise when I peeled the boot back the joint had virtually no grease in it. Looking back on the MOT history online there had been several comments about that side boot being split and also not being fitted securely so it must have been replaced at some point.

I repacked it with new grease and he got a few more 1000 miles before it started making a noise again. So it’s worth trying that 1st before getting the drive shaft / joint changed
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cool. I might try that first!

Ok, I haven;t managed to get hold of a Haynes manual yet, and this is one of the jobs I've not done before! (Though I'm pretty good at following instructions)

I've seen some CV boot kits on Ebay - what would I need to do to repack the joint; are there any step by steps anywhere?

Thanks again!

Noel
 

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Only problem with putting a new boot on is that you'd need a cv boot gun (near on £100) most likely to fit it over the joint itself! If the current boot is still in a serviceable condition then you'll only need to repack with grease (not any old grease by the by) and reseal with a CV clip. You can buy CV clips and grease for less than a fiver on eBay :) You literally would need to squeeze the grease into the boot and reseal with the clip....easy peasy :)

To add, when CV Joints go they click click click when turning, especially on full lock. If you aren't getting this clicking then the CV Joint is most likely OK. The knocking you make mention of just sounds like the track rod end is the culprit!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Hmm...good point.

It's not click click clicking - it's going "dadadadadadadadada" - when I turn either way - and not on full lock, it starts pretty much as I turn and only on the gas; but it's worse turning left. I KNOW the drivers side track rod end is loose, see.
 
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I bought one of these cone kits for my Scenic a while back as thats got one piece drive shafts.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UNIVERSAL-STR...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a0e819a2b

I have used the cone a couple more times though it is getting a bit chewed up now to fit CV boots to another Scenic. Not quite as easy as the demo on You Tube. It makes it a hell of a lot easier if you leave the boots in boiling water for a few minutes before hand.

I have just bought a pack of twelve 450mm long X 7.2mm wide cable ties and used one on a Scenic which had a loose CV boot as I couldn't get the spare metal one I had to tighten properly?
 

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I'd fix the track rod first and see what noises if any you are then getting before throwing money at it!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
That's my plan now Scatz. I was just unsure as to the sounds they make when they go!

Thanks for your input mate, tis really appreciated!

Just one last thing - again due to time - my local indy has quoted me £120 for both of them fitted AND tracking.

This a good price? They suggested I get both (track rod ends) done at the same time, though I'm not 100% if this is needed.
 
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Just one last thing - again due to time - my local indy has quoted me £120 for both of them fitted AND tracking.
Thats not a bad price at all. A tracking check can cost you £30 and drive shafts at around £50 each it's hardly worth the hassle of doing it yourself at that price IMO and thats coming from some one who always does his own repairs.
 

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Hmm, as already mentioned, tracking can cost around £30. You can pick up track rod ends for around £10-15 each totalling around £60. An hours labour I suppose these days could be around £60 so it sounds about right! I'd not pay it though. I'd fit the track rod ends myself and then pay for tracking to be done and save the labour costs!

Now, I'm sure someone will quote me wrong here but I assume that you would just need to count exactly how many turns it takes to remove the old track rod end and then put the new one on with exactly the same amount of turns and it should be correct but tracking done professionally for piece of mind ). In fact, I believe there's a jam nut which would only enable you to tighten the track rod end to the previous position. You would, of course, need to ensure that the new and old track rod ends were the same length in the first instance!
 
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Now, I'm sure someone will quote me wrong here but I assume that you would just need to count exactly how many turns it takes to remove the old track rod end and then put the new one on with exactly the same amount of turns and it should be correct but tracking done professionally for piece of mind ). In fact, I believe there's a jam nut which would only enable you to tighten the track rod end to the previous position. You would, of course, need to ensure that the new and old track rod ends were the same length in the first instance!
The problem is you can't guarantee the new track rod ends are the same lenghths as the old ones? it's the distance from the centre of the taper to the end of the track control arm and there is no easy way to measure that.

When I change track rod ends I do as you suggest and wind them on to the lock nut which I try and leave in it original position and then get the tracking checked asap before I start scrubbing tyres :eek:

You are supposed to have the tracking checked when ever steering has been disturbed and the track rod ends are usually disconnected when replacing the drive shafts.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yo be honest, the track rod ends are only about £12. I'll do the one that's got play and get the tracking sorted - that'll save me the money I hope!

Is it a hard job, or just a case of unbolting them, giving the bolt areas agoot coat of WD to losen 'em up and taking them off?

Noel
 
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You need to break / seperate the taper joint I personally never use a spliter. Remove the nut apply some force with a long bar and and sharply tap the arm with a lump hammer holding the taper and that usually loosens the taper joint.

Thats how most garages do it. Dont apply to much force so bend anything and don't go bashing things so they get all brusied up :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Heh,

well I've just dug out one of my axle stands from our shed (which it appears, has a leaky roof and is yet ANOTHER job I'll need to do LOL) and I'll order an end this week.

Hopefully next Sunday will be dry enough for me to sort it.

I shall try not to mash it!

Thanks again for the info guys! Much appreciated!

Oh, on a side note - I mentioned before in another thread my horn isn't working; now, it's NOT the fuse (I checked yesterday). I looked behind the passenger foggy under the car and there's a flat(ish) round object that has an electrical connector going into it. It's held by a little bolt on a metal support and it looks fubared! Is this the horn? If so, by the look if it, I think that's why it ain't working!
 

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Heh,

well I've just dug out one of my axle stands from our shed (which it appears, has a leaky roof and is yet ANOTHER job I'll need to do LOL) and I'll order an end this week.

Hopefully next Sunday will be dry enough for me to sort it.

I shall try not to mash it!

Thanks again for the info guys! Much appreciated!

Oh, on a side note - I mentioned before in another thread my horn isn't working; now, it's NOT the fuse (I checked yesterday). I looked behind the passenger foggy under the car and there's a flat(ish) round object that has an electrical connector going into it. It's held by a little bolt on a metal support and it looks fubared! Is this the horn? If so, by the look if it, I think that's why it ain't working!
It is not uncommon to get bad contact on the female connector to the male lucar on the horn. A good clean, some protective grease and perhaps compressing the female connector a wee bit usually helps. Could also be your horn needing tuning. Don't tune it too high though. There is a tuning screw on the back normally protected by a plastic cap or sealant.
 
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