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Discussion Starter #1
I have browsed through a lot of topics relating to problems with the D4F engine but i haven’t found one with a identical problem.

So, the car is a 2004 kangoo with the D4F 730 engine (1.2 16v 55kw).

Ever since i first bought the car it had trouble starting when engine is cold: sometimes it will start on the first attempt, sometimes it will take 3 or 4 attempts. The car starts for a couple of seconds and then stalls. The problem gets worst when the weather is colder. When engine is warm the car presents no problems (except maybe a very sharp drop in revs when pressing the clutch that doesn't make the engine stall, it bounces back form 500rpm to normal idle almost instantly).

In the 3 years i have had this car it have tried the following:
1. cleaned the TDC
2. Cleaned the throttle body (reinitialized it with DDT 2000 or clip numerous times)
3. changed lambda sensor 1
4. adjusted valve clearance
5. compression test (14 bar on all cylinders)
5. vacuum leak test
6. about a million diagnostics with both CLIP and DDT2000- absolutely nothing wrong
7. cleaned contacts on TB connector
8. tested for fuel pump pressure (3,4 bar)
9 cleaned injectors and verified flow (both ok)
10. changed coils and spark plug leads
11. changed spark plugs every 20.000km and filters every 10.000km
12. changed Throttle body, checked with CLIP, initialized the new one with DDT2000

The car still doesn’t work well when cold, it starts on the 3-4 attempt and after that if you ever so gently touch the accelerator pedal it stalls. After a couple of minutes i can accelerate but it hesitates and still first stalls and then revs up. I will put a video to show you what i mean.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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In old days I'd have said a choke problem but obviously not the case with modern engines.
I'd still be looking for modern equivelent though cos all the symptoms fit.
I'm no expert on modern sensors and controls but think the "choke" cold start fueling etc is initially controlled from the water temp sensor.
As you seem to have access to diagnostics you may be able to see what readings you are getting from it.
Won't show as a fault if reading a little high but will prevent the ECU from knowing it should be treating the engine to a cold start.

Just a guess so take it for what it's worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have checked both the coolant and air temperature sensor readings and both are accurate (checked on CLIP and DDT2000 just to be sure). The injection time is somewhere arround 4-5 ms when cold (-10 degrees celsius) compared to 3-3,5 when hot so I guess it's providing a richer mixture, if that is enough I do not know. The long term fuel trim is arround 128-130 (right arround the default value) and the short term fuel trim on idle(hot) is arround 30.000-33.000.

The ECU software hasn't been updated (since I own the car I haven't done it), if it comes to that I am going to go to the renault dealer, even if i have acces to CLIP I would not do it on my own.

If you consider usefull I could make a recording of a DDT2000 diagnostic check so you can see the exact parameters. The car does not register any fault codes.
 

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I would get the software updated.This cant be done at home even if you have a clip.The software is downloaded at the dealer.
 
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