hi

the PSA TU engines used a cable for the accelerator.

Al

 

Thanks for your reply Al, I'm not very familiar with Renault yet, I've had a kangoo before briefly but prior to that my previous was a Renault 21 over twenty years ago. I did a search on eBay and Google and I didnt find much on PSA tu engines, except in Peugeot and Citroen stuff. Did any kangoos have a cable throttle - maybe early 1.9d?

 

It would be a big help to know if any kangoos had cable accelerator pedals fitted? Even more fantastic if someone on here had one that i could purchase. I'm sure I can make something up to suit but it would be nice to find a direct replacement unit that would bolt in in place of my current electronic one.

 

I needed to make a crankshaft locking pin (MOT 1489).

I know they are available on eBay for tuppence but I didn't order one when i should have and today I needed it. It's just a long 10mm bolt reduced to 8.5mm diameter for 58mm and then the two nuts are locked together to give length of 69.5mm from first nut to end.

 

hi

PSA is Peugeot / Citroen their TU diesel engines have cable operated accelerators. I know, because before my change to Renault I owned a 106 GRD, a 205 dTurbo, two 309 GR & GLD and a 306 GRD.

I have pics, but this site is currently not uploading photo's.

Al

 

1.9d Clio or kangoo may have one but they are very rare now. Clio 1.2 8V has a cable throttle, still plenty of those around.

Interested to know how this works out.

 

Thanks for that, I will have a look in my local breakers yard for one of those.

How do I upload pictures? The pump bracket is done, fairly simple really but quite a bit of trial and error to get things in the right place. I had to move the pump axis 15mm forwards and 6mm up and the pump also leans about 45° forward, just building up the pump it will run this evening so hoping to have it running tomorrow. I had to shorten the pump nose about 3mm to be able to fit the original k9k pulley to it. Same taper fitting but slightly different keyway in the pulley.

 

it runs!

 

 

Nice job, very interesting to see. How easy was it to fit the mechanical injectors.

 

Landrover TDI injectors are 17mm diameter throughout their length, and the tip is slightly longer than those on the DCI injectors. So they are a good fit, but they are taller, and the section that is machined narrower for the fork type clamp is further up the injector, i was able to use the k9k clamps, but i needed to make upstands for them out of round bar to reach the extra height, and use longer bolts.

Ford duratorq injectors were also an option I had, they are also 17mm, but they are taller again, not that that is really an issue, but they use a different clamping method - a circlip groove and a threaded loose collar around the injector.

 

The pump I used was a Perkins prima from a rover montego turbo, I have a couple of those on the shelf and the power output of the prima is about 90hp or so, depending on configuration, so it seemed to me to be a fairly good match to start with. Also that pump has the adjustable mounting for timing, some engines have a fixed pump and Vernier pulley, which is great when you know exactly where it should be with a dial gauge for static timing, but not so convenient for experimental adjustments on a project like this. With the prima pump I can just slacken a couple of 13mm nuts and roll the pump a bit to try a new timing position, which you really need to do whilst driving, just repeatedly stopping and making small adjustments until youve got it just right based on sound of the engine, clean burn and responsiveness.

The prima pump has a long nose which is good for this but unfortunately slightly too long to carry the original k9k pulley. So I shortened the pump nose by 3mm which involved a little bit of lathe work and also dismantling and rebuilding the pump. I also had to shorten the body of the k9k pulley, again on the lathe.

I think the transit 2.5di bosch pump may be a better donor, I'm not sure as I don't actually have one to measure, I'm just judging from photographs. It would be nice to find out. That method too would involve dismantling and rebuilding the pump though, maybe not quite as extensively as my method, but you would need to fit an LDA turbo compensator top assembly from another turbo pump as the transit di is non turbo. A pump from a turbo vauxhall astra might also be a good option, 1.7litre I think from memory, ive never had one though and i suspect it would have a 17mm shaft.

There's a number of pumps that might be a good fit but would have 17mm shafts so you would have to make some kind of pulley adapter between a hub that fits the 17mm pump shaft and a k9k pump pulley or possibly the Vernier camshaft pulley might be better, but if you used the camshaft pulley your 'adapter' would need to include the little inside edge standup that the k9k pump pulley has to prevent the belt running in towards the engine. If everything is correct the belt shouldn't run against that but it is there to prevent a calamity.

The bracket is a steel fabrication, 8mm plate with a couple of lugs welded on to bolt it to the cylinder head picking up the two 8mm bolt holes nearest the timing cover. I had a couple of goes at it, i first made one i could easily adjust by bolting it together in different positions in order to find the best location for the pump.

Now that everything clearly works I have to make another bracket to support the back of the pump, the two 8mm bolt holes that hold the common rail accumulator are very conveniently placed for that.

 

This is great work, may become very useful as we are now entering a time where we have lots of rust free cars with good mechanicals but failing electronics.

 

0460494372

This is the number of a Vauxhall astra Bosch ve pump that might be a good fit, there's a couple of things that might make it a better donor, but no real way of knowing without actually having one to look at.

I don't know if the astra engine is a Di or idi but if its idi then thisbpump may not have an aggressive enough camplate in it, but that is easily changed.

Almost certain that this pump will have a 17mm shaft, but it looks like the astra engine uses a Vernier pulley, so if the donor pump can be got with the pulley then there will be an easy base from which to turn an adapter to fit between that hub and the k9k camshaft pulley.

The two bolt front mount might allow the pump to fit into the recesses in the k9k head better than the pump I have used and end up with a more upright pump installation.

 

I have had a go at trying to reduce the number of warning lights ive had showing on the dash since getting this running. The rev counter has also not been working.

By progressively trying various combinations of plugging items and sensors back in that are no longer required to run the engine I have managed to get the rev counter working again and also get rid of the red 'stop' warning light and also the red engine light. I still have the heater plug light and the yellow engine light in the bottom right corner lit permanently, which is annoying but i think it would be acceptable for the mot like that.

So, to achieve this these are the items that are not plugged in:

• egr valve
• air flow sensor
• intake pressure sensor
• all injectors
• timing sensor on pump pulley
• green plug on delphi fuel pump

And these items need to be plugged in:

• common rail accumulator sensor (fuel pressure?)
• brown plug on delphi fuel pump (i have removed this sensor fom the pump and this also needs a ground connection)
• accelerator pedal
• and im guessing there is a crank sensor somewhere, as the rev counter needs a feed from something, but i havent seen it yet.

The heater plugs dont seem to be working, it starts well enough without them but it would be nice to get them working properly, though i could just connect a momentary switch to the relay. Being a di it starts well enough without heat, and it actually started better on a -2 morning a couple of days ago without heat than it would have done with the original common rail system.

 

Great project, first time ive heard of a mechanical pump conversion.

Id imagine it will be fairly easy to increase power by turning the fuel and boost up a bit if you want a bit more power.

Might be worth trying some resistors in place of the missing sensors to get the remaining dash lights off.

 

2000 miles completed now since it's surgery and I've slowly got it adjusted to perform well so to answer the questions about performance and economy I would say it's essentially the same as original plus or minus a few percent that I can't detect or measure as unfortunately I didn't have a long term record of fuel/mileage before doing this. Since conversion the best individual tank full was just over 13p mile but that wasnt an ideal test as although it was a good fairly gentle motorway run I was towing an empty trailer 60 - 65 mph. It's really hilly round here, lots of little roads and average seems to be about 14p mile, but i do a fair amount of towing so im yet to get an opportunity to see what the best i can do is, but i would think i could get it down to about 12p a mile.

As Brigsy said above with this setup it would be very easy to increase boost and adjust for more fuel to match.

It starts better too, I guess the common rail has to build a certain amount of pressure before it will go and that takes a couple of turns of the engine, this engine now starts instantly.

 

Awesome conversion