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Discussion Starter #1
Hi firstly i am new to this forum and have enjoyed and learnt a lot from reading threads so thanks to all who share their knowledge on this forum.
I don't know much about cars and am looking for some experienced advice here..

I have a 1998 1.9d kangoo and a week ago i noticed that the glow plug lights didn't come on as i started it..(warm start). I drove 5miles to home and noticed the engine more noisey than usual and also a loss of power. The next morning it would not start so I called home start service. By running a wire directly to the glow plugs it started..no engine noise..no loss of power..The next day the direct wire to glow plugs did not work to get it started..I bump started it to the local mechanic who later told me the air filter was like a wet sponge (I had been driving through flooded areas previously) and that I needed a new engine. Mechanic had fitted new glow plugs and new air filter.He got me started with a tow start and the engine sounded like a box of spanners until it warmed up and then run and sounded fine.He was surprised and said maybe I had slightly bent con rods from water intake that were preventing it from starting.

I was dubious about the mechanics diagnosis and quote of £900 to remove and fit an engine and took it to another mechanic for a second opinion..He told me a current was arriving at the glow plugs and control panel for them although no glow plug light was appearing on the dash. The 60a relay in the engine compartment also appears to work.This mechanic suggested that I see an electrical mechanic.
This morning i called home start hoping to get a tow to the electrical mechanic and the helpful driver managed to get me started using the direct wire to the glow plug and plenty of easy start spray. Again the engine sounded like it had a few spanners loose but this noise improved as the engine warmed up.This mechanic said the problem had nothing to do with the glow plugs as he had given them a current direct from the battery and echoed the diagnosis of the mechanic saying that I may have slightly bent co rods which prevent it from starting cold...My kangoo only has 100k miles and no rust and i do want to keep it running ...
Also I believe that 3 of the relays in the fuse box inside the car are not working...Could these be affecting my starting problems? Can you offer me any advice?
Any feedback will be most appreciated...Thanks forum friends!
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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strange.. Young mechanics then LOL ..

take a picture of your engine will show you where to put your hand to feel a vibration on the pump as it sounds like the fuel injection pump timing solenoid is sticking ( Must have a Lucas Pump fitted on that year )
 
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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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post your picture, and will explain what you need to do
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Hi and thanks for your swift reply.I have taken a photo..what next?
Post it?
In terms of bent con rods, can't see it myself.
It doesn't take a lot of water to hydrolock an engine but if it gets in, it is immediate, if by any chance the engine keeps running, you will know immediately that something is wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Post it?
In terms of bent con rods, can't see it myself.
It doesn't take a lot of water to hydrolock an engine but if it gets in, it is immediate, if by any chance the engine keeps running, you will know immediately that something is wrong.
Thanks...So hoping to resolve this...such a reliable old workhorse this kangoo1
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also do you know how i can find out what the individual relays in the fusebox do? I know that one is for the indicators but does anyone have a diagram showing the purpose of these relays on a 1998 1.9d Kangoo?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Sh1t, just remembered , bonnet opens backwards, see your alternator, can you take a picture showing the fuel pump from just above the alternator so phone on alternator, pointing at fuel pump and snap

Tuck knows whats going on with the site, can download but cannot use paint to help, the pictures are downloading but weep format ( Tuck knows what that is , wish the Canadians would stop pi**ing about )
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok i will post that photo after sunday breakfast which might be earlier than normal now the pubs closed! Its also a left hand drive from spain so part locations are a bit European..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Morning! So I took a few photos from above alternator...will upload shortly...thanks for your help.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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SEE that rubber boot, lift it off, thats what you are after
Get someone to switch the ignition on while you give this a slight tap,

( You should hear it clicking as the ignition is switched off and on, , Found putting my hand on it, a can feel it click )
IF nothing then would be checking this, as it sounds from your replies this is failing to open correctly ..
NOW to check its that,
READ ALL THIS DONT MISS ANY OF THE INFO, re-read it

Unscrew it, take the plunger AND spring from the bottom out ,,, screw the solenoid back in
DONT LOSE THE SPRING INSIDE, OR THE PLUNGER .
If its this, the engine will now start, you will need to prime the system

BUT YOU WONT BE ABLE TO SWITCH THE ENGINE OFF
you need to stall the engine, SO CHOCK THE FRONT WHEELS, IF NO FAITH IN YOUR HAND BRAKE , Shove it in gear and stall it.. ( Lift off the clutch with it in first gear other foot on brake pedal)

YOU are doing all the above at your own risk, make sure bonnet lid is back down
FFS be careful here, have known someone put his car through his front wall and wreck his car


Here is the part number 77 01 205 886 ( Its just a stop start ) any will do, just need to mess with the wiring..
IF it turns out to be that. PM me and I will explain how to get around the wiring,,
 

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Discussion Starter #17
SEE that rubber boot, lift it off, thats what you are after
Get someone to switch the ignition on while you give this a slight tap,

( You should hear it clicking as the ignition is switched off and on, , Found putting my hand on it, a can feel it click )
IF nothing then would be checking this, as it sounds from your replies this is failing to open correctly ..
NOW to check its that,
READ ALL THIS DONT MISS ANY OF THE INFO, re-read it

Unscrew it, take the plunger AND spring from the bottom out ,,, screw the solenoid back in
DONT LOSE THE SPRING INSIDE, OR THE PLUNGER .
If its this, the engine will now start, you will need to prime the system

BUT YOU WONT BE ABLE TO SWITCH THE ENGINE OFF
you need to stall the engine, SO CHOCK THE FRONT WHEELS, IF NO FAITH IN YOUR HAND BRAKE , Shove it in gear and stall it.. ( Lift off the clutch with it in first gear other foot on brake pedal)

YOU are doing all the above at your own risk, make sure bonnet lid is back down
FFS be careful here, have known someone put his car through his front wall and wreck his car


Here is the part number 77 01 205 886 ( Its just a stop start ) any will do, just need to mess with the wiring..
IF it turns out to be that. PM me and I will explain how to get around the wiring,,
Thanks for that and the warnings...will get back to you...is glow plug dash light a seperate issue do you think or related?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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If thats not working, then all related..
( Glow plugs, though were needed all those years ago, a spray of easy start would have had it up and running straight away)
 
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Don't think rods will be bent, bought a flood damaged 2000 Scenic years ago, intake full of water and found head gasket missing a large ½" chunk on the left side piston from water entering cylinder. This piston still level with its twin, new head gasket and it was fine thereafter. My block had F8Q cast on it though it was an F9Q732 engine. This same F8Q block is what you have so I would rule out bent rod(s) for now.
Have you cleaned out the intake, especially the low points, my intercooler was ½ full of water. Best
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hi Wyn and thanks for your advice...I have checked the air intake and seems clean and dry. Damn I am confused by this issue! I tried to follow the advice of "ours2012" .I ended up breaking the 2 thin wires connected to the injector pump solenoid while removing it. Once off I was not able to remove the plunger as it appeared to be stuck in the solenoid and would not budge. Maybe wrongly?? I assume that having replaced the solenoid which still has the 2 thin wires broken that the plunger is disconnected and is the same as if I had managed to take it out? The weird thing is that the engine does turn off with the key though ( related to ours2012 advice that i would need to stall to stop engine) so maybe those 2 thin wires attached to solenoid do not operate the plunger? Can you answer that one? Maybe I should have forced harder to get the plunger out but I gave it a good go...
Today I tried connecting a wire direct from battery to the glow plugs and noticed that the engine really couldnt turn over with the wire connected...it turned over without the glow plugs directly connected but wouldnt start after 10 good attempts. I managed to bump start it and it lacked power until the engine had warmed up.
2 local mechanics have told me that they just dont know what the problem is...I am paying for a hire car which is killing me and I have to return it on friday....and generally mechanics are closed right now.....Please continue with your valued advice.Just dont know where else to turn to...Thanks guys
 
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