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Traditionally, you would slacken the bolt holding the alternator, then use a lever to create a bit of tension for the fanbelt (not too much though) before tightening the securing bolt.

If the belt is too tight it will cause the bearings in the alternator, and anything else driven by the belt to wear as they will be under stress & slightly out of alignment.

HTH

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply, The Peter Russek manual shows the 1.5 dci drive belt is adjusted by a tensioning wheel and a special tool is used to measure tension, i just wondered if anyone has done this job without special tool. thanks Larny.
 
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The belt tension could be correct but if the belt is worn and bottoming out on the pulley vee's causing it to slip? I usually tighten auxilliary belts so I can turn the belt through around 45° dehrees with finger pressure at the longest part of the belt between pulleys.

But as already mentioned over tightening isn't desirable either.
 

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Belt is tensioned as you say by adjusting tension wheel and measuring vibration frequency of belt at lower span. Belt should be tensioned such that it will vibrate at 234 ± 5 Hz.
Measure vibration frequency using your PC or buy a special instrument costing hundreds of pounds. There is a thread on this forum that explains how to do it on a Kangoo with F9Q engine. Yours will be similar. Belt on yours is set to vibrate at higher frequency because the K9K will have a shorter free vibration span than the F9Q. Actual belt tension will be the same.

I have added a spread sheet at the end of that thread. This spread sheet calculates vibration frequency when free vibration span, linear mass density of belt and required belt tension are entered. Can also be used to work out required tension when vibration frequency is specified.

A less scientific method is tensioning belt just enough so it does not squeal like a stuck pig.
 
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Gosh, this all sounds so much like progress; using computers, etc.

So muh better than a picture in a Haynes manual showing that the belt should only be capable if so many mm movement...

Its a wonder the engine doesn't need removal.

Change doesn't always equal progress.

Paul
 

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Gosh, this all sounds so much like progress; using computers, etc.

So muh better than a picture in a Haynes manual showing that the belt should only be capable if so many mm movement...

Its a wonder the engine doesn't need removal.

Change doesn't always equal progress.

Paul
Don't blame me for Renault specifying belt tension settings in Hertz.
Checking tension by measuring vibration frequency is actually very accurate.

The method prepared with assistance of forum members and published on this forum makes it possible for home mechanics to get tension right without forking out 4 - 5 hundred pounds on a tool that is only used a few times.
 

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I wasn't blaming you (I don't shoot the messenger).

I just thought fitting & adjusting a fanbelt was one of those home diy jobs I can remember doing at the side of the road with a decent socket set, and without the need for Bill Gates.

Sadly, it looks like its a task (or at least the original procedure) which has been consigned to the history books...:d
 

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Micro V belts used in auxiliary drives are less forgiving w.r.t. right in initial tension than the olden standard Vee fan belts.
There is no accurate way of checking tension other than measuring. Twist of the belt method is useless as achieved tension will vary widely depending on span length and finger strength. Stop the squeal method is better but use with care on worn belts that bottom in the pulleys.
 

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... I just thought fitting & adjusting a fanbelt was one of those home diy jobs I can remember doing at the side of the road with a decent socket set, and without the need for Bill Gates ...
There won't be access for a socket set on modern cars. Certainly not on my Kangoo or Smart. No problem in the olden days as you say. Could be done wearing your best white shirt and tie.
 

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Aye, on my old cars, I can sit on the wing with my legs in the engine bay (and you actually get to see an engine, not just a bit of plastic).

Happy days.

Paul
 

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Aye, on my old cars, I can sit on the wing with my legs in the engine bay (and you actually get to see an engine, not just a bit of plastic)....
I think access to tensioner is rather poor on a Kangoo with the 1.5 litre K9K engine. Slightly improved on my Kangoo as tensioning is done the conventional way by turning alternator, which is more accessible.

The Kangoo II with K9K engine seems to have an automatic tensioner for all model variants. Instructions for replacing and tensioning auxiliary drive belt still indicate that the job is rather complicated:

REMOVAL PREPARATION OPERATION
Position the vehicle on a two-post lift.
Remove:
the front right-hand wheel,
the front right-hand wheel arch liner,
the engine undertray bolts,
the engine undertray.
the right-hand side reinforcement bolts,
the right-hand side reinforcement.

OPERATION FOR REMOVAL OF PART CONCERNED
Rotate the accessories belt auto tensioner at clockwise using a 16 mm offset wrench.
Remove the accessories belt.
Remove:
the accessories belt tensioning roller bolt,
the accessories belt tension wheel.
REFITTING
REFITTING PREPARATION OPERATION
Parts always to be replaced: Accessories belt,
Parts always to be replaced: Accessories belt tensioning roller,
Parts always to be replaced: Crankshaft accessories pulley bolts.
Clean the V-grooves of all the accessories pulleys using a brush with non-corrosive bristles.

REFITTING OPERATION FOR PART CONCERNED
Refit:
the new accessories belt tensioning roller,
the new accessories belt.
Turn the crankshaft twice.

FINAL OPERATION.
Refit:
the right-hand side reinforcement,
the engine undertray,
the front right-hand wheel.
 

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As opposed to;

get 2 socket wrenches, fit the correct adaptor, loosen bolt, wedge piece of wood against engine & alternator until fanbelt has only a small amount of play along its axis, then tighten up.

This is where I was questioning the 'progress' aspect...:d

Paul
 
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