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15K views 25 replies 14 participants last post by  stevechesterfield 
#1 ·
I have a knocking noise coming from the front of my laguna 2, it sounds like the O/S. It only occurs when im going over bumps. The car has just gone through an MOT and i have replaced both lower suspension balljoints and track rod ends so i can rule them out straight away. I would assume if it was anti roll bar bushes or lower arm bushes these would be picked up on MOT.

Anyone got any suggestions as to where the problem may lie?

Thank you
 
G
#2 ·
I have the same and just passed MOT too.

My guess is anti roll bar bushes, as they are hard to detect during the MOT as they aren't under strain, and are only visually inspected.

Could even be slihght play in the drop links, but again not enough to be picked up on MOT.
 
#3 ·
CLi0 II Lower ball joints and cam belt

Hi Folks,

More Clio questions.

The Clio needs a n/s lower ball joint. The garage suggess changing the whole are assembly as it is similar labour, although part more expensive. Sounds like work creation to me.

Also, as the car is 10yrs old although low mileage (29k) should I change both?

And one more, should I get the cambelt done with the service this year?
Cheers

Paul
 
#4 ·
Re: CLi0 II Lower ball joints and cam belt

I would agree that it is a similar labour time to fit a complete arm. If they change just the ball joint it involve grinding and drilling out the rivets that secure it. Changing the arm is easier as its just a bolt job.
Not sure what others would suggest but when working on suspension, I always do the same to both sides - so i would replace both arms.

I would have the cambelt done too, its a bit over due..
 
#5 ·
Kangoo 4x4 Steering rattle

I have a Kangoo 4x4 2001 grey import with a serious knocking coming from steering. On rapid steering movements i can feel knocking from rack area. Replaced bottom ball joints and track rod ends to no avail. Am I right to suspect the rack itself???
 
#6 ·
Re: CLi0 II Lower ball joints and cam belt

I know this is an old'ish thread, but it needs correcting. The ball joints aren't riveted to the arms, but bolted. So given a good soak in plus-gas they should come off easy enough.

I may have to do this soon. MOT is due at the weekend and there is a minute amount of play in the wheel is grabbed top and bottom and rocked. But not enough to be visible, so hoping we might get away with an advisory.

As for the cambelt, isn't it 80,000 miles or ten years ... which ever comes first? Ours in now on 71,500 so probably needing changing soon. Anyone changed a 1.5 dCi and have any hints and tips? (I've done a pug 206 1.4 Hdi and Pug 206CC 2.0i, but this one looks very tight for space!)
 
#15 ·
Re: CLi0 II Lower ball joints and cam belt

I may have to do this soon. MOT is due at the weekend and there is a minute amount of play in the wheel is grabbed top and bottom and rocked. But not enough to be visible, so hoping we might get away with an advisory.
Passed without an advisory on the balljoints ... can't have been as bad as I feared.

They did give one advisory. They can't see the pads properly but think the offside inner is worn. As they can't take the wheel off for the MOT, then they can'y check properly, buy from what they can see it could be down. They have done about 36K and mostly around town. they were fitted before we ought it so could be a cheap make (and made of cheese :crazy: )
 
#8 ·
Re: CLi0 II Lower ball joints and cam belt

hi guys

Im having some trouble on my kar that i cant seem to figure out why this is happening.

1: there is a strange noise coming from the engine or the wheels,not sure.What happens is that when im accelerating the noise is gone,but when im leaving the accelerator the noise re-appears. I tried looking under the car or close to the cv-joint but all looks fine.. i did fill up the the gearbox with correct oil and the cars oil is also topped up.

The noise im talking about sounds like it comes from the gearbox,or of the wheels somewhere,but cant figure it out.

Some guys tell me it can be the thrust bearing in the gearbox,others again say its the ball joints,and some say is the shock mountings on both left and right shocks.

Please can someone give some insight on this matter?

Regards
 
#10 ·
Re: CLi0 II Lower ball joints and cam belt

not like a knock sounds more like something is grinding against the wheels. There is a knock sound as well but that i think is the shock mountings that has to be replaced.

The noise is like a knocking sound as soon as i leave the accelerator padle
 
#11 ·
Clio MKII 1.4 16v - Wishbones - Listing to starbord

Now I've got a lean to the front driver's side - have had new springs and dampers as well as ARB bushes. Wallows somewhat in left-handers. Was looking around the car and noticed that there seem to be some support bars on either side of the wishbone on the passenger side but only 1 on the driver's side.
Not sure whether this is right or not or even a possible reason for the problem.
Does anybody have a diagram of the suspension setup/wishbones? Anybody had the same problem and managed to resolve it?

Thanks in advance.
 
#13 ·
Re: CLi0 II Lower ball joints and cam belt

Is it worse on full-lock? If it is, then it's the CV joints. :(

Could also be the suspension arm is worn and wearing so when the weight of the car shifts when you take you foot off the pedal, something is rubbing.


Tried jacking the wheel up and pulling/pushing at top and bottom, etc. See if you have play in the wheel bearings. If you can get someone else to do that while you look underneath at the suspension, you may see where the movement is.
 
#14 ·
Re: Clio MKII 1.4 16v - Wishbones - Listing to starbord

BUMP and quick update. Had a good look around today and noticed that the front strut tops do not sit flush with the body of the car. Further the gap between the rubber top and the body are different left and right. Presumably this isn't right?

Help!
 
#16 ·
Suspension seems hard and bumpy

I have recently bought a RENAULT GRAND ESPACE PRIVILEDGE 2001 2.0 16V it has 84000 miles and is a great car.....apart from the suspension. I've checked and adjusted the tyre pressures but the car just doesn't travel and handle right. if yoy ride over small pott holes or even rumble strips etc. the car seems to either 'skate' over them or you REALLY feel the bumps and if you hit say a ridge you get a real 'bang' in the car. Anyone any ideas? Can the suspension be adjusted I've been told the suspension on these cars are different to others??:confused:
 
#17 ·
Megane cc front coil springs

Having had my megane cc seviced at a local renault dealer last wednesday i found that when the car was returned they had managed to snap the near side coil spring,( having missed my drop kerb with 1 wheel and riding up the kerb not recommended} I contacted the garage concerned and spoke to the service manager who asked me to return the car and they would repair the damage free of charge i also asked him if both springs should be changed together, he said he had contacted renault and this was not necessary.
my question is this true or is the garage concerned just trying to save money.
 
#18 ·
Re: Suspension seems hard and bumpy

Hi and welcome to the forums

there are 2 types of shock absorbers available, Soft Oil ones or Hard Gas ones. you need to find out what you have fitted. if you also have 17" rims fitted it will make the ride much harder as well.
switching to 16"wheels will be smoother ride if you have gas shocks and the pot holes wont cause so much panic when you see one coming up.
the suspension is pretty much the same as Laguna's and megane's and do share a lot of parts with them.
how many bolts are on the wheels 4 or 5?


you could/should! also get the car checked for tracking. as its a new(to you) you should try to get one that does all 4 wheels for tracking and camber measurments.
just so you know if there is any problems that the previous owner didnt own up about. (like excessive rear tyre wear etc...)
rear axle toe/camber problems are common (in a loit of renaults), and can be readily fixed with shims by garages with the right equipement.

i was going to advise you get a haynes espace manual, but im not sure they do one for espace?, if they dont get a laguna1 manual, as its pretty much the same under the bonnet.
 
#19 ·
Re: Megane cc front coil springs

Hi

they were just saving money:rofl:, actually its a known problem that is often missed until the parts fail.

the springs should be changed every 50k or 5 years or so. unfortunatly they are not listed on many service interval schedules for reno's.

a lot of reno owners have had similar failures and many have had the tyres ripped when they fail.
the timing for you was just lucky that it occured while it was with the garage.(*technically" its just wear and tear) it could have happened at any time.

i would definitly recomend you get them to do the other side at the same time, it doesnt take long to change, it is good idea to change the top mount/bearings as well, as they also wear out.
 
#20 ·
Just an update to this thread.

At the time when i checked the ARB bushes they seemed to be quite solid but after leaving it for a few more months it got worse and i checked it again and it was clear the bushes were worn out.

I disconnected the drop links and when lifting the ARB up there was a clear gap between the bar itself and the bushes.

I managed to change the bushes by removing the road wheels, disconnecting the drop links and going in the side.

Theres not much space but it is do-able and it took about 3hours.

Thank you to all those who replied to this thread.
 
#22 ·
Re: Ball joints?

have you got the bolt bore of the hub is clear of corosion?
rub it down with sandpaper/a file to make sure its clean.

use a G-Clamp to press the bolt into the hub.
if it wont go all the way in, use a bit of wood under the joint and hammer it the rest of the way.
once thread is clear of the top, fit nut and tighten up.

in older models you could use a screwdriver/chisel to open the split on the hub a bit if it was too tight to get the ball joint to fit easily.
 
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