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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I recently had the turbo changed after it blew, the garage changed the turbo and all the various pipes - approx two weeks ago.

I have only driven the car ~150 miles, and the engine has developed a loud knocking noise. It sounds like a piston has broken and the crankshaft is hitting/banging into excess metal in the sump. After a short while the engine stalls. There is no smoke, or vibration from the engine.

I am going to remove Engine Sump next weekend to see what is going on. Would you happen to know the star socket size, and if I'd need a new sump gasket after removal?

Laguna 1.9DCi - 2005 (54 Plate) Mileage 43,000.

I would appreciate your help. :eek:

Many thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hi All,

If this helps, I hooked the car upto my Diagnostic tool (basic OB2), and it reported a stored fault.

- P0308 - Glow Plug / Heater Circuit A Malfunction

I tried to start it, but there was loads of white/grey smoke coming out the exhaust so I turned it off.

Any help appreciated :d
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Guys,

I replaced the glow plugs yesterday, still no difference. I also, disconnected all the glow plugs and turned the engine over and no banging noise. Would you think this is good news, as I originally thought it was piston damage / big end failure....would it still make a noise being turned over?

If not I'll take the sump off on the weekend and take a look to see if there's any damage. I got a sneaky feeling its a misfire, but the noise is loud so not sure if its mechanical or misfire....

Help greatly appreciated :crazy:
 

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Firstly check the cambelt timing,it's possible that the belt had jumped a few teeth due to a failing water pump/tensioner which has now gone completely.If the belt jumps one or two teeth the engine will make some very unpleasant noises but still run quite happily.

If all is well there then you have to suspect internal engine damage.When the turbo went,did it run on it's own oil at all?.(i.e revved up and you couldn't switch it off)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Guys,

Thanks so much for your replies, I was about to send you both a private message for help :d

When the turbo went I was on the motorway and was able to turn the car off, although did run for a while.

When I removed the glow's, two had the ends missing, that's why I thought they were damaged.

If I remove the sump, would I need a new seal? I'm not sure if there is internal damage? What are the symptoms of a misfire or injector failure? When I turned the engine over with no glow plugs it sounded fine, if the big ends have failed or piston would it make a noise while turning over?

Thanks so much guys for your reply :d
 

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Oh dear - not good news I'm afraid.
If the ends of the glow-plugs are missing they may have dropped into the cylinders. Only by removing the cylinder head will you find the extent of any damage.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh dear - not good news I'm afraid.
If the ends of the glow-plugs are missing they may have dropped into the cylinders. Only by removing the cylinder head will you find the extent of any damage.:)
Thanks guys, just a thought, I took the top cover off tonight and had a look at the top of the valves (sorry don't know the official name) and the valves were; Open / Closed (Cylinder 1) Open / Open (Cylinder 2) Open / Closed (ish) (Cylinder 3) Open / Open (Cylinder 4) It just didn't seem symmetrical. I think I may take some snaps tomorrow morning. :crazy:

The knocking seems to be at the top of the engine....I'm not sure if I am clutching at straws here in desperation :confused:
 

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Before you do anything else,check the cambelt timing.It costs nothing and needs to be ruled out before you spend money on things you might not need.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Before you do anything else,check the cambelt timing.It costs nothing and needs to be ruled out before you spend money on things you might not need.......
Hi guys,

Quick update;

I have removed the engine from the car, removed the sump, to discover, couple small peices of metal, looks like the fan blade when the turbo failed.

I removed the anti-emulsion plate, and everything looks ok, no broken pieces. So I played with the piston, to discover Cylinder 3 has excessive play in it. I can literally move the piston attached to crack 3-5mm play.

What should I do now, it doesn't look like the bolts are loose, so I suspect bearing wear? Any help greatly appreciated :confused:
 

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If you have that much movement in a big end bearing then the crank will be fubar'd,to remove the crank,have it reground,then fit new bearings will be more expensive than a decent second hand engine with a warranty.Plus,you don't know what other damage is hiding inside the engine i.e cam bearings,bores,cam lobes,etc.

Just my opinion mind,but this engine sounds like it's junk I'm afraid.I wouldn't contemplate repairing any modern mainstream engine that has knocked out a big end bearing in the fashion that yours has.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If you have that much movement in a big end bearing then the crank will be fubar'd,to remove the crank,have it reground,then fit new bearings will be more expensive than a decent second hand engine with a warranty.Plus,you don't know what other damage is hiding inside the engine i.e cam bearings,bores,cam lobes,etc.

Just my opinion mind,but this engine sounds like it's junk I'm afraid.I wouldn't contemplate repairing any modern mainstream engine that has knocked out a big end bearing in the fashion that yours has.
Thanks Lagdti,

Why would one big end fail and not all four. There was oil slugde in the bottom of the sump? Also, if I just replace the big end bearings, whats the implications? I've seen on the forum I may need to get the crankshaft reground? If I don't and just add the new bearings, won't this help?:confused:

Yeah understand what you mean by the new engine, seen a couple on ebay. :d
 

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Considering you have found sludge and metal debris in the sump is definitely not a good sign - it only takes very little ginge to block an oilway.

3-5mm play either in a piston or bearing is a sign of severe damage. You'll probably find that the worn big-end journal is well and truly damaged plus the risk of con-rod damage is high.

To ensure there is no debris or metal aprticles lurking anywhere else in the engine would entail it being completely dismantled and having a complete rebuild which would proably cost in the region of £1000 plus.

Overall a relplacement engine is going to be the best and most economic option.
 
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