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Discussion Starter #1
Hello
Am I right in thinking that when fitting a new timing belt to one of these, it's not necessary to time the pump, just the camshaft and crankshaft?
thank you, sooey
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Another query if I may...
I put the crankshaft to TDC and I can't turn the camshaft to it's timing mark without the valves hitting the pistons. I put the camshaft to it's timing mark and I can't turn the crankshaft to TDC for the same reason. Is there a special way to do this?
cheers, sooey
 

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The fuel pump doesn't need timing on this engine.

The crankshaft should be roated until all the pistons are mid-way down the bores. Then position the camshaft to it's TDC markings - then gradually rotate the crank until it is at TDC - remember Renaults cylinders are numbered from the gearbox end of the engine. You'll also need a crankshaft locating pin to ensure the crank it correctly positioned.

Are you replacing the belt as a service item or because it had failed?:)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for that noel, I was being a bit of a girl regarding my second query, I thought I had the crank on TDC, but it was 180 out. Glad to hear about the pump, I wasn't sure about that.
As regards the "service item" or "failure" question, it falls into the "disastrous failure" category. I've a long tail of woe about it if you're interested.
 

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Thanks for that noel, I was being a bit of a girl regarding my second query, I thought I had the crank on TDC, but it was 180 out. Glad to hear about the pump, I wasn't sure about that.
As regards the "service item" or "failure" question, it falls into the "disastrous failure" category. I've a long tail of woe about it if you're interested.
Let me guess - did the auxiliary belt fail and take the timig belt with it or was it just s traight timing belt failure resulting in bent valves, etc, etc.
I take it you now have the head rebuilt complete with new belts, tensioners and ne water pump, etc.

Did the belt fail prematurely or were the belts not changed in accordance with the recommeded serice intervals/:)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The auxilliary belt shredded because the big spring loaded tensioner had come off its mounting and went a bit **** eyed. This caused the camshaft sprocket to shear it's minty little locating tooth, knocking the timing out and damaging the end of the cam in the process. After the auxilliary belt had sheared I started the engine to get me home, it didn't seem to be running too bad but there was a knock. Thinking the valves must have been contacting the pistons I took the head off to check. Funnily enough there are no marks whatsoever on pistons or valves and the valves move freely in their guides and seem to be sealing well (white spirit test). So I'm just in the process of sticking it all back together now, (500 quid later) but I can't help wondering what that knocking was .
 

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The ECU calculates its injection timing from the camshaft sensor located behind the cam pulley so if the camshaft pulley ain't positioned correctly the injection timing is very likely to be will be skew-whiff - hence the hard knock.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ah, that makes sense, cheers.
Taking the head off this thing is about the hardest job I've done on a car and I served my time on the spanners. That was on mini's, 1100's. triumph heralds and hillman imps though
Things have changed a bit in the last 30 years, I've disconnected stuff that I haven't got a clue about. :d
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just a quick update, I got this going, it seems to run well and there doesn't seem to be any knocking though I only ran it for a short while. I haven't changed the oil yet. So it looks like you were right about the injection timing causing the knock noel. Thanks for the help.
 
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