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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

A few of you asked for an update on my cambelt change I did over the weekend as mentioned in another one of my threads Laguna II keycard. I did a new post as it was a bit off the subject of the keycard.

Anyways not a bad job all in all. I would stress that if you've never done a belt change on any other car before I would leave this well alone as it is a bit more difficult that anything else I've encountered.

Total cost of parts was close to £90 after, this included:
Cambelt
Aux drive belt
Tensioner kit
Cam end caps

Took approx just over 5 hrs in total. A bit long but I've never done a belt change on a renault before so took my time.

As I said the job wasn't too bad, well worth keeping a haynes close by as it gives some good tips.
You do have to make 2 service tools to do the job, first is a cam lock, I made this from a strip of 6mm thick steel just long enough to reach the 2 cams, with 2 bits bloted onto each end to engage in the cams. had to grind it down a bit so it was the right thickness to sit in the cam lobes properly. This was origianly what I had made to do a belt change on a Ford 1.6 Zetec so I just modified for the Renault. Second was a crank lock, I used a piece of 6mm steel dowel for this, slightly tappered at the end so it would fit in the crack properly, seemed to work fine. I would imagine you could get away with a drill bit if you can find one long enough. Details of how to make these are in haynes.

The thing that makes this engine a bit more difficult that any others I've done it because it has the potential to go a bit wrong due to the design. This is because the crank sprocket doesn't use a woodruff key to locki t into place, it's only held in place by the cranck bolt so has the potential to slip if not tourqued up properly, and makes the use of timing marks on the sprocket itselt usless. I can understand why they've done this as it does make tensioning the belt a bit easier but can cause disaster if it ever does slip, just make sure you clean the crank and sprocket with plenty of brake cleaner. The are recesses in the sprocket and cranck for a woodruff key so I suppose you could use on if you wanted. All other cars I've worked on have them so I can't see anything wrong with it. It deatails all this in the haynes manual so well worth buying one if you ever do want to attempt it. Other than that the job is pretty straight forward if you've done a cambelt change before and shouldn't cause too much greif.

The car is now running fine and my mind is at rest as the car was on 77k when I canged it. :d

All the best to anyone thinking of doing it themselves.
 
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Premium Member
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Hi ,

Do you know where can I find a How to guide to change my cambelt on a Laguna II Diesel '02 ??

Thanks!
I have never came across a "How to" post in the forum relating to changing the timing belt on the 1.9 Dci engine (if I'm wrong no doubt some member will correct me).
The Haynes manual is quite good in this respect so it may be a worthwhile investment. There are a few for sale on good old fleabay or £20 direct from Haynes:)
 

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Tourerman
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Unless you are an experienced Mechanic I would not suggest you go down the DIY route even with the good haynes manual.
 

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Unless you are an experienced Mechanic I would not suggest you go down the DIY route even with the good haynes manual.
I've done some repairs here and there, so far (touch wood) no major problems...

Is thes Haynes manual giving details step by step on how to change the cambelt?

Cheers
 

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The Haynes manual gives a fairly good description of changing the timing belt but you have to remember special tools will be required and it assumes you will have some experience of changing timing belts.
If you get it wrong you could end up with serious engine damage:)
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #8
I agree with Noel,

If this is your first time changing a cambelt I would advise against DIY.

Most other cars you can get away with out using the locking tools, but with the Renault they are essential. Especialy the crank lock.

The thing that makes this one a bit more difficult is the cambelt sprocket doesn't lock into the crank with a woodruf key, it's free to rotate once the bolt has been slackened off which has the potential to throw the timing out if you don't refit it correctly.

Use a new crank bolt and refit it dry. Also clean everything in the area with brake cleaner and make sure to tighten to the correct torque otherwise it might slip, and then you're introuble with bent valves.

Also you might aswell change the water pump while you're there as if it fails you'll have to do the job all over again. And it might cause your new belt to snap.
 

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Thanks guys...
You make it look scary, I might have to put this DIY off.... and pay somebody to do it.

If I were only going to change the water pump...is that easier? kind of loosen the cambelt a bit...change the water pump and tight the cambelt back??


Thanks again!
 

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Nope,you'd still have to time the engine up correctly to slacken the belt unfortunatley.
 
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