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Discussion Starter #1
I thought I would start up a thread about my attempt at repairing my Laguna II 1.9 DCI, and hopefully I will try and make updates on my progress.
The timing belt snapped last year and Im hoping all that needs repairing is valves.
Now the weather is getting better and the nights are getting longer im going try and get the car back on the road.
So far I have removed the auxillary belt and have started on the timing belt cover.
I believe that to get the timing belt cover off I need to remove the crankshaft pulley that drives the auxillary belt. Two things I have noticed, firstly the auxillary belt seems to have fraid and bits of it were wrapped around some of the pulleys, and secondly there was a broken bit of metal casting wedge behind the the crankshaft pulley, not sure where it came from at the moment.

I have two questions to start with;

Do I need to take the auxillary belt crankshaft pulley off to remove the timing belt cover? If I do what direction does the bolt need to be undone, is it opposite threaded?

Do I need to remove everything that the haynes manual tells me to to get the head off the engine? I have been told that it could be simplified a bit?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Had another go today atslowly fixing the Laguna.
I manged to get the timing belt cover off. It looks like most of the timing belt as jammed arround the crankshaft pulley.

Should I be able to turn the camshaft if I put a spanner on the pulley that the timing belt attaches too?

Should I be able to tun the crankshaft at all?
 
D

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Do yourself a favour and get the head off. It needs to come off anyway, and then you can see if there is any damage to the bottom end
 

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you need the head off valves ARE BENT this will stop the cam turning easily
The pulley on the camshaft needs to come off to check the keyway is not damaged most likely is.

If valves are badly bent they might have damaged the guides too if this is the case just get a good secondhand head its cheaper in long run.

Crankshaft will not turn as it will be jammed it will most likely turn backwards though
 

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Erm, I hate to break it to you, but humpadink was asking for help with the procedure for removing the head, I don't think jumping in here and telling the OP to do what they're already trying to is very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Im slowly cracking on with getting the head off. I have got as far as removing the injectors. I have taken the retaining bolt and clamp off. The injectors seem to be in fairly tight. Before I try and force them out, should they just pop out, do I need to do anything in particular to get them out? Do I need to to remove them at this stage to take the head off?
 

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Generally speaking yes, you should be able to turn the engine with a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, especially as you most likely have no compression. However at this stage you don't need to. I agree with Danthevan, get the head off and see what is going on. You can set up TDC on the crankshaft later.

Marv
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Finally... I have removed the head.
It came off easier than I thought, and it looks like there are only two bent valves. I have also turned the engine and the pistons seem to be free, and ther doesnt look like they are damaged on top either.
I have also removed the starter. I have measured across the terminals and it appears to be ok. I will put it in a vice next and run it to see if it goes ok.

I might have another problem though. When taking the Auxillery belt pulley off I found piece of metal near the timing belt pulley. There is a shoulder that surrounds the timing belt pulley that protects the belt, the bit of metal has come of this shoulder. What would the best thing to do with this metal bit, should I try and glue it back on to the engine? I can put up some photos if this will help with what I am talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have stripped down the head today. I managed to get out 6 of the valves, the other two just dont want to come out. Also the injectors dont want to come out either. try again tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Finally got the last two valves out, and the injectors and glow plugs too. A new set of valves will be on order shortly.
Tested the starter today too, it works also.
As far as I can tell the only damage is too the valves, so a good result I think.
I am planning on replacing the water pump, anything else should I look at to replace before I build it again?
 

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hi dont forget the cam valve clearance is determined by the buckets not hydraulic must have clearance gap when valve closed
 
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