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I have just given my rear pads a clean and copperslip and the usual handbrake control free off. The problem is that one caliper won't retract fully and you can hear the pad binding slightly, it does retract by screwing it in then it won't quite free right off once the pedal has been pressed. Its not bad but not right. Does the caliper need a clean and stripdown? Anyone know if its worth doing. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes Noel I did, I also noticed that the handbrake cable was slightly longer at the other side, the pad catches when these are disconnected.
 

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Once the cable has been disconnected - did you retract the pistons by turning them clock-wise as you pushed them back in. If they won't go back in fully it could be the internal handbrake mechanism inside the caliper is broken. Maybe that's why the one cable appears shorter than the other. Apparently it can be a fault with these type of calipers. The calipers are not a servicable part as spares are no longer available. Most people just replace them - it is recommended if being replaced they are replaced in pairs to avoid unequal braking. When fully retracted the pads should be easily replaced by hand using little effort and definitely not be hammerd in.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I didn't screw the piston right in, I maybe should do before I take this further incase its sticking a bit, screwing it it may free it off a bit.!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Stripped it all down an all it was is that the rubber grommet which the bottom allen stud goes in is a bit tight on the stud. Cleaned it all off and gave it a little light oiling. Now it releases nicely! Hopefully thats the end of it for a while, although I have found that you have to oil the handbrake levers fairly regularly or they start to sieze!
 

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Hi Axial - what type of oil did you use on the grommet - only rubber grease should be used as normal oil attacks and destroys rubber fairly quickly.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Noel, I used a ptfe based lube, I'm not that bothered if it does break down as the bush would need replacing anyway. Works well now!
 

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Once the cable has been disconnected - did you retract the pistons by turning them clock-wise as you pushed them back in. If they won't go back in fully it could be the internal handbrake mechanism inside the caliper is broken. Maybe that's why the one cable appears shorter than the other. Apparently it can be a fault with these type of calipers. The calipers are not a servicable part as spares are no longer available. Most people just replace them - it is recommended if being replaced they are replaced in pairs to avoid unequal braking. When fully retracted the pads should be easily replaced by hand using little effort and definitely not be hammerd in.:)
I was resigned to a new caliper (£99) as I couldn't get the piston to screw back in. The cable had come off the compensator and the lever on the caliper was sticking. While I was waiting for delivery, I decided to strip the caliper for something to do - well, I removed the piston and seals. I cleaned everything up and when I screwed the piston in, it retracted all the way, so I began working on the lever and managed to free it off. Replaced the caliper and bled it, and it works like a good 'un. Luckily the guy I buy parts from was understanding and sent the new caliper back.

So, if that cable has popped off the compensator, it's not always a knackered caliper as a quick Google led me to believe.
 

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Once the cable has been disconnected - did you retract the pistons by turning them clock-wise as you pushed them back in. If they won't go back in fully it could be the internal handbrake mechanism inside the caliper is broken. Maybe that's why the one cable appears shorter than the other. Apparently it can be a fault with these type of calipers. The calipers are not a servicable part as spares are no longer available. Most people just replace them - it is recommended if being replaced they are replaced in pairs to avoid unequal braking. When fully retracted the pads should be easily replaced by hand using little effort and definitely not be hammerd in.:)
so by driving the pistons home with drift I will have knackerd them ?

I wondered why they were knocking so badly this morning...

ahhhh crap.. more money to spend on the car.
 

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It is a bonus being a member of this forum
 

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Pistons in all calipers should return with little or no pressure. Whilst most rear calipers need to be rotated whilst being retracted they should all return with little or no effort. If it needs the assistance of a big hammer or such it is usually a sign something ain't right. It's the same with brake pads you should be able to insert them gently by hand - no rough stuff.:)

On cars with ABS I always release the bleed nipple when pushing pistons back in as there is a risk (alll be it small) of upsetting the ABS valve system.:)
 

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Pistons in all calipers should return with little or no pressure. Whilst most rear calipers need to be rotated whilst being retracted they should all return with little or no effort. If it needs the assistance of a big hammer or such it is usually a sign something ain't right. It's the same with brake pads you should be able to insert them gently by hand - no rough stuff.:)

On cars with ABS I always release the bleed nipple when pushing pistons back in as there is a risk (alll be it small) of upsetting the ABS valve system.:)
the pads were shot to buggery and the whole piston was way past its full extension.. i thinks that why it was such a "*****"...

Ill wait and see how they look when I inspect them, they have only done 8 miles since though..
 

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This is the closest thread subject for my problem so here goes!.......
My handbrake cable had become disconnected and traced it back to a seized mechanism on the caliper. On removal it took a bit of 'persuading' but managed to free it up to return on the spring.

Question: Should the piston move when the mechanism is moved even with caliper removed? (I imagine it should to make the handbrake a mechanical operation). I fear the mechanism has broken :-(

Thanks
 
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