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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,


Having a small issue with the 2.0dci Mk3 Laguna and info for this car seems to be thin on the ground (or I'm to daft to find it!).


I have just had the AC refilled and oiled as it wasn't working but this has not been successful.



I was advised the system reported no leaks but upon further inspection it seems the AC clutch is not kicking in on the compressor.



Fuses have been checked and wiring looks intact however I am struggling to find good sources for this information.


Has anyone had this issue before? Would be nice to try a few things before having to go to a specialist.



Any help appreciated :driving:
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Pressure/schrader valve,, if no leaks then go on this, Aircon does not need De gassing, unscrew old one and screw new one in..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Great, so part # 7701205751 "Pressure Sensor" is what needs replacing?

I think I located that when having a look around at the system, front left front in the AC pipe just before it goes into the condenser.

Is this a common issue or just the first item to check/replace
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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If no leaks then yes,, If this valve is faulty, then clutch on the air con compressor wont activate..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update


Managed to do a full diagnostics via a Icarsoft RTII unit and keep getting the code "DTC921613 Air conditioning compressor supply circuit - Active" in the UPC section.


Pressure is at 6 Bar and everything else checks out OK.


Having a Google around it suggest a couple of things:


* Feed to the compressor is broken - Any tips how to un-clip the connector from underneath?
* The thermal fuse housed in the actual compressor is blown, but how I get to this and what to replace it with is beyond me at the moment - info pulled from a French forum: https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&u=http://www.forum-auto.com/marques/renault/sujet61457.htm&prev=search
* Something to do with the compressor winding? again French information site: https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&u=http://www.mecano.ovh/index.php?clefPanne=2149&prev=search
* Compressor is goosed


Is there anything else I can add to this list to check? I have checked the fuses in the glove box and engine bay that I could find but not come across a relay. Info on the Laguna III is very limited and the handbook is of no use.
 

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Premium Member
Captur 2017 1.5DCi EDC
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Not familiar with your system but a temp 12V to the compressor might rule out the last three. Also there was something on this forum last week about the compressor being locked out by the ECU.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Large fuse interior fuse box, 40 amp aircon (bottom part of the fuse box )
Not the top large 3 fuses

4 fuses in a column ( only column in the under bonnet fuse box ) second one down ( red ) 10 amp

No idea where the other fuse box under the bonnet is, but one fuse box is by the battery, and two are by the bulk head.
If you can locate these fuse boxes, and take pictures and post them, will mark the fuses for you..
Sorry not able to post the picture I have, and not even sure it would help you
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So the plan for tomorrow:


* Re-check fuses
* Check Wiring


Due to the current weather here, I have attached a generic picture that I have circled with the locations I am aware there are fuses in the engine bay.


Thanks for all the help of everyone, fingers crossed I will get to the bottom of this and post the results!
 

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Are there just two wires going to the compressor? If so use a multimeter to see if there is 10 to 12 volts going to it with the engine running and air con switched on. If there is then the compressor is faulty. If not then you need to look at the fuse, relay, pressure switch, wiring fault, other electronic fault (in order of difficulty/expense to diagnose)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, So slightly late however I have an update.


Wiring is OK
Fuses are OK


I believe it is the compressor that is kaput



Laguna2005GT - It has 4 wires, 2 in each plug going to the compressor. Both earth wires are fine and the power is fine on both of them.


Any advice on changing a compressor? :mechanic:
 

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You have to be careful with compressors. If the old one has failed internally there will be grey sludge or even aluminium debris inside it and the whole system will need cleaning out.

Don't panic yet though. EDIT - YOU WILL NEED TO GET THE GAS REMOVED BEFORE PROCEEDING. Take the high pressure output pipe off the compressor (the thin one of the two that goes to the condenser at the front)

Get a cotton bud and swab a sample from inside the pipe / compressor. The oil inside should either be clear like water or green if there is dye in but clean green if that makes sense. If you see grey sludge or metal particles or brown/orange guey oil then it is bad news. Slight greyness is ok though, it just means slight wear on the compressor. Good luck.
 

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practicly not the all compresor is "kaput" only the electromagnetic clutch .inside the bobbin there is a thermodiod and that is kaput .i don t know if you cand find like a aparte piece .
 

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If it is only the clutch pulley that is faulty then you can just change that if you can get it off. Some compressors need a special tool to lock the pulley in posiiton while you undo the bolt otherwise the whole pulley turns along with the bolt. I couldn't say on your compressor as I haven't seen it.

Also I'm afraid I don't know how you would diagnose that as the fault unless Renault diagnostics could tell you somehow.

If the middle of the pulley wheel can be spun by hand then you at least know that the compressor is not seized.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The middle moves freely so that is promising and there are no nasty noises from the compressor its self. I'm currently looking in to getting the pulley off so this could be a cheaper option to try before going whole hog.
 

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It sounds like my Laguna III just had the same problem as OP. In my case, the electromagnet for the AC clutch has gone bad. The garage wanted to replace the compressor, but that's a bit expensive.

Mine is a petrol Laguna III 2008 Estate 2.0 Turbo. In case clutch coil is your problem, here is what I did to fix mine.

To check if 12v is going to the AC clutch coil, you will need to disconnect the 2 plugs on the AC compressor so that you can access them. One plug is black, the other is grey.

Space is tight down there, use left hand for better leverage. Optional - remove sharp edges along the access path before proceeding.

The black plug is located next to the AC pipes port, it provides 12V to the clutch coil. To unclip, "simply" press hard on the tab, no tools required.

The grey plug is located slightly further down, to unclip you will need a small flat head screw driver, I used a electric live test screw driver. On the plug you will feel 2 high posts. Between the posts there is a little tab. Manoeuvre the screw driver down there, place the tip on the tab between the posts. The tab will feel springy, press in hard with the screw driver blade to unclip plug.

Once both plugs are free, you can get the cable up into a more accessible position. Test that 12V is arriving at the black plug when AC is turned on. You can use a multimeter. I used 4 LEDs soldered with a ~1000ohms current limiting resistor, all in series.

If there is 12V at the plug, your clutch coil has gone bad.

Replacement:

As Renault and Nissan share many common parts, it turns out it is the same one as on Nissan Altima 07-12 or Sentra 07-11. Alas these are US models.

From the dimensions, it looks like the one OP found on Aliexpress will fit too.


To replace the coil:

You will need the following tools:
- jack, axle stand
- wheel removing tools
- flat head screw driver - 6mm tip
- short stem philips screw driver
- locking grip pilers
- 9" external circlip pilers - straight
- 5mm allen key
- TX-20 torx key/screw driver
- 16mm ratchet spanner

Steps:
- Jack up the car. Hydraulic jack on right subframe bolt, axle stand on front right jacking point.
- Remove front right wheel.
- Remove front right fender liner - use torx driver to remove torx screws, then pull christmas tree plugs to release the fender liner
- You will now have access to the AC pulley and clutch plate. Check that the AC clutch plate can rotate and is not locked in place. If the clutch plate cannot rotate, you need a new compressor.
- Use the locking grip pilers to clamp the clutch plate to the AC pulley
- Use 5mm allen key to remove the bolt at the centre of the clutch plate.
- Remove the grip pilers. Pull the clutch plate out. It may be a tight fit, wiggling it left and right might help it come out.
- Using the 16mm spanner on the fan belt tensioner, release the tension on the fan belt and remove fan belt.
- Now the AC pulley should be able to spin freely
- Use the 6mm tip flat head screw driver to loosen and remove circlip holding the AC pulley. On mine, the circlip holes are too small for 9" pilers but the clip is too big for 6" pilers, screw driver will do.
- Pull out AC pulley
- Using the short Philips screw driver, remove the screw just beyond the bolt holding the compressor. This screw holds a clip securing the 2 plugs onto the compressor body.
- Take a photo of the current clutch coil to provide a reference of the correct orientation for the clutch coil.
- Using 9" circlip pilers, remove the circlip holding the clutch coil
- Unclip the clutch coil plug from the clip holding the 2 plugs.

Reverse steps to reassemble. :grin2:

Gotchas:
- When installing the new clutch coil, make sure it is in the correct orientation, secure and the circlip has completely reseated into its groove. Put the AC pulley back on the spindle to check that it is not rubbing on anything.
- make sure the clutch coil cable is tucked out of the way before re-tightening the clip holding the 2 plugs onto the compressor
- Leave the fender liner out for a bit after reassembly so that you can check the AC clutch easily. Install the fender liner once you are sure it is all OK.
 

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I am not sure, but from reading around the internet I think grey plug goes to the compressor lock sensor, aka lock-up sensor, aka speed sensor.

If it is that, the car monitors the compressor speed and it compares it with engine speed to detect lock-up conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the detailed instructions isferos! I am just awaiting delivery of the new coil and clutch tool and will update shortly.
 

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The 5mm hex bolt in the clutch plate, which way threaded is it? Which way to turn to undo? It's very shallow and the 5mm hex key I used keeps coming out. Really struggling to do anything with it.

The fender liner I have uses TX-15 Torx Screws.

Simon
 
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