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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, just managed to get me laguna taxed on the road. But i have a couple of problems after driving it for the first time.

1. Theres a horrible knocking / clunking sound coming from the front left somewhere.

2. The speedo MPH dosent work.

Can anybody help as to how i can fix this?

Thanks
 

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Clunky Laguna

How many Miles are on the odometer - sounds like a drive shaft has gone. I don't like to be the bearer of bad news as the other possibilty is the diff/gearbox has gone. A damaged differential will effect the speedo. Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi, the car has donea round 100k.

I dont know if it is the diff/gearbox as the rev counter works but just not the speedo.

Also the car drives fine in every gear.

I thought it is probably just the speedo cable etc...?

:(
 

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Faulty Speedo

johnboy2006 - the revcounter and speedo work independent of each other. The Rev meter takes its input from an electronic sensor on the engine whereas the speedo gets it input from the gearbox/differential unit. Some speedos are mechanicallly driven by a cable and others are electrically driven. The knocking sound could be a badly worn drive shaft and a faulty differential won't necesarily affect the gears themselves. Any other members wish to comment.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi all, just had a look at car today and it looks like the front coil spring had collapsed which is what was giving me the knocking noise.
I only have one problem and that is the locking wheelnut is abit worn and wont undo the nut!! Grrrrrr

How can i get this off?

thanks
 

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damage wheel nut

OOp's this is a nasty one me thinks - it important you don't cause any damage to the wheel in the process and it depends if its an external or internal keyed nut. If externally keyed see if you can get an old socket slightly smaller in size and beat it on with a hammer and then try ro undo it - suuden sharp presure is more likely to work than an even slow turn and use a long levered bar. If it an internally keyed bolt you would be best trying to get and old Torx bit slightly bigger and hammer it home and then try undoing it. I have used both methods with success in the past. Whilst yo may ruin a socket or Torx key - it will work out cheaper than a new wheel, etc. Alternatively you could take it to a tyre fitting supplier who are likely to come across this prob more often. A tyre fitting company working to the relevant BS standards will only tighten wheel nuts to the corect torque using a special torque wrench. Renault wheel bolts tend to become very tight to undo and when I refit I smear them with anti-seize compound (also known as copper grease) and tighten them to the correct torque (tightness).

Any ideas as to how you are going to repair the spring?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi all,

Just an update, i managed to get the nut off in the end by hiting the locking nut onto the bolt with a very large hammer :)
Ive now replaced the spring but i have to prise off the rod that goes from the anti roll bar and attaches to the shock absorber, what is it called as i need to buy one and are they expensive?

Also i cured my speedo problem by giving the dashboard a whack lol.

:rofl:
 

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It's an anti-roll bar drop link.:)

Aftermarket ones are around £25-£30.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ahh thanks i knew it was something similar to that.

Do you know how to get these off as when i undo the nut it just seems to turn the whole nut and bolt, i ended up with lots of grazed knuckles lol.
 

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Some of them have an allen key or torx head in the end of the thread to stop them turning as you undo them,some have two flats on the back of the joint where you can put an open ended spanner,again to stop them turning.The common problem is that the thread corrodes,and as you turn the nylock nut,it goes tight and no matter what you do the whole lot spins.

You might be able to clamp a pair of molegrips tightly around the back of the joint,but sometimes the only option is to cut the nut off and buy a new link.

If you ever try and undo one again,thoroghly clean the threads with a wire brush and spray with WD40(or similar).Then undo the nut(whilst holding the thread with either a spanner or socket depending on which type you have) and work the nut backwards and fowards.This will gradually clear the thread and make it easier to remove.Sometimes even this doesn't work.....then it's time to get the angle grinder out!:)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi,

yeah i tried the allen key thing and it just ended up rounding off inside. lol

I think i mite be getting the grinder out !

Would this be safe to drive as the top part of the link has popped out the ball part and you can move the bar about. i have zip tied it for now to the shock but i dunno if it would break free and do some damage.
 

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I wouldn't chance it.:eek:

The link would more than likely come loose,and it would cause some strange handling characteristics or even stick into the tyre or hub/brake assembly somewhere.......
 

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anti-roll bar Drop arm links

If your going to replace them and they don't come off easily - take the grinder to them - it's the quickest way and is sure to work. Just be careful not to damage the eyes were the links attach and remember sparks are hot and can easily start a fire. Have a mate stand by with a fire extinguisher or something to cool as you go. Most mechancs use a big squeezy bottle of water and douse it to keep things cool as they work. Once repaired you will be surprised how much the road handling improves. It is also recommended the steering alignment be checked after any work is carried out on steering or suspension. No point in fixing the suspension bits only to find a short while later you need a new set of tyres - false economy that would be.
 
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