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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Just registered as found this forum popping up a lot whilst doing some Google diagnostics!

I've got a Clio 3, it's far from standard but the last couple changes have brought about a Low Battery and warning spanner on the dash, it appears after about 15 seconds and won't go away. - What I was initially trying to establish via Google which led me to this forum, is will the CAN CLIP system give me an idea of why this message is appearing?

I'm getting about 14.6v when starting the car, then after the 15 seconds and the warning comes on, it drops to 14v. So clearly it's charging, and the alternator is the same one that used to work on the car (been laid up for a couple of years). I've also traced the exciter wire and that pins back to the UCH still.
The car has since the last time it was working had the A/C removed - most people it seems don't have an issue doing this, but can I use CLIP to code this out and would it tell me if that was the problem?
The other change is it has also had the throttle pedal and throttle body removed - would this cause it, and I doubt there's anything in CLIP to fix that!? (Car runs cable throttle and individual throttle bodies now).

Any pointers or advice welcome, I'm toying with the idea of buying one of these CAN CLIP clones as long as the consensus was it might help?

Cheers,
Rich.
 

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Premium Member
Captur 2017 1.5DCi EDC
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3,767 Posts
When you say the warning won't go away, how long are you waiting? If the car has been unused, or the battery is getting on in years, it is possible the warning is correct. It may take a reasonable drive (15mins or so) for the warning to disappear. The fact that you have a charging voltage doesn't mean that the battery is in good condition. My last car (Scenic) was parked up at the airport for two weeks. When I came back it took 20mns for the low battery warning to disappear. And that was a relatively new battery. I think on the Scenic though, the Battery Low warning is replaced by Battery Charging while driving if memory serves.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi, the battery is brand new and the warning will not go away even if driven for 3hrs.
 

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Premium Member
Captur 2017 1.5DCi EDC
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Ouch. Are you checking the voltage across the battery terminals, and what is it when at rest, and first thing in the morning?
 

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Artful Bodger..chief sneaky eliminator
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Could be your phone battery warning or key card battery, if it comes on again and you have your phone, switch it off to see if the warning clears, how old is the battery in your key card?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So after the best part of a month my CLIP tool has arrived and I've setup an old Win 7 32bit install. It connects to the car and appears to work, although I confess I've no idea what I'm doing with it!
One thing I've noticed while flicking through screens is an error on PR001 Battery Voltage = 0v. This seems very likely to be the culprit for my low warning on the dash? I've gone as far as checking the UCH main power plug, and both pins are seeing battery voltage to it. So I'm at a loss as to why the UCH would not be registering anything here?

Any ideas? Cheers
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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So you have connected to the car, clicked the ? and its put your vin in.
Then you have filled details in to allow diagnosing,
Then you have put a tick in the box just below to force re identification
Then a screen appears after data scan, showing all green lines, then you click next screen, and you get Red boxes showing faults yes
So what boxes are red, and what are the faults in them
Start with UPC as the first to diagnose this controls Charging system

Then Injection computer, then UCH

Write all fault codes down, BEFORE you clear any faults
Write down each code plus the DEF at the end of the code and put what each code relates to what computer/module
Come back on here with the codes, someone will help you ..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah roughly that's what I did, I'll have to do it again tomorrow and record the errors. - But there are tons of them, however bare in mind my car doesn't run the stock ECU and has had multiple systems removed from it, but it's been that way a long time and I never used to get the low battery error.

This error has occurred since the last set of changes, which were: A/C removed, converted to cable throttle (so removed dbw throttle and dbw pedal), and had a new wiring loom built for it.
I'm of the opinion it's the wiring loom done incorrectly, the wiring guy is not of the same opinion! This PR001 status of 0v seems to be quite probably the issue though, if I can work out why and what would cause that then perhaps once ~12v is seen again, it'll be resolved?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep so UPC and UCH both reporting 0v (screen shots attached). The ABS and A/C modules both show correct voltage. I don't have the injection computer anymore (ECU) - it runs an aftermarket one.

The UPC is the white one under the bonnet yep? That looks like it gets its power from the battery direct, the 2 large red wires feeding it are certainly showing voltage on them both.

The UCH - that's the black one under the glovebox? I'm not sure how I'd go about figuring that one out. However I've attached a screen shot of a green plug that's been changed and carries a large red live. It's been changed to run a new fuel pump relay, but I'm not sure where it would have gone to before and I'm wondering if this is related possibly?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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39,844 Posts
need to write the codes down,, and post them NO screenshots of CanClip allowed
 
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