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Should I change the pump and tensioner?

  • Yes

    Votes: 12 80.0%
  • No

    Votes: 3 20.0%

  • Total voters
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2011 Renault modus 1.5dci, I've had it from new. It's only done 30k miles.
Should I change the timing belt?
If so Should I change the water pump and tensioner as well.?
I believe the timing belt should be changed as it has aged but I think the Tensioner and water pump can do another 30k at least.
I'm on a budget and can do the work myself.
I purchased a Continental timing belt for £12, If I can get away with this id be happy but not sure to change the water pump and tensioner as well.
I don't mind doing the job again at 60 or 70K
So what are your thoughts???
Will the water pump and tensioner last another 40k miles? as they are genuine Renault parts.
or should I save for the new parts?
Please let me know.
cheers.
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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6,391 Posts
cant remember miles/ age for belt change being a tight git with that low miles i would just do the belt but be warned if it was to fail down the line it would be your own fault for being a tight git like me
but if you can and you have the cash go for a complete set
Ron
 

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I personally follow a typical "90's Japanese service schedule" with my cars (the most reliable era of the most reliable car manufacturers :wink2:).
For the timing belt this would be 60K miles or 6 years - whichever comes sooner.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Belt change was 5 years or 60K miles
Renault have since changed to 6 years or 72K (IIRC)

So belt at least is past its use by date.
Age related time is due to elastomers leaching out of the rubber and breaking up due to that.
Whether this is happening to your belt, dunno but given that you will severely damage the engine should it fail, no brainer to change belt.

The rest of the items???
Normal to change all but if you are feeling brassic and DIY so not going to incur labour charges....

Water pump, wear and tear due to mileage mainly.
If it does start leaking, unlikely to damage timing but will need to redo timing to change.

Pulleys and tensioner.
Again, wear is more mileage related but grease will age... sealed for life bearings (hah) so is toss a coin.
If any sign of wear, not turning smoothly, clicking, replace. If one does fail, so does timing.
I'd change them but your choice.

Do change auxiliary belt even if it looks okay, that is aging the same as the cam belt and failure can throw timing.
Same choice on pulleys and tensioner on that.

Only caveat on pulleys, if any are plastic bodied, change them, the plastic will also suffer from age.
 

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Sexy at 70 super duper mod..
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Belt change was 5 years or 60K miles
Renault have since changed to 6 years or 72K (IIRC)

So belt at least is past its use by date.
Age related time is due to elastomers leaching out of the rubber and breaking up due to that.
Whether this is happening to your belt, dunno but given that you will severely damage the engine should it fail, no brainer to change belt.

The rest of the items???
Normal to change all but if you are feeling brassic and DIY so not going to incur labour charges....

Water pump, wear and tear due to mileage mainly.
If it does start leaking, unlikely to damage timing but will need to redo timing to change.

Pulleys and tensioner.
Again, wear is more mileage related but grease will age... sealed for life bearings (hah) so is toss a coin.
If any sign of wear, not turning smoothly, clicking, replace. If one does fail, so does timing.
I'd change them but your choice.

Do change auxiliary belt even if it looks okay, that is aging the same as the cam belt and failure can throw timing.
Same choice on pulleys and tensioner on that.

Only caveat on pulleys, if any are plastic bodied, change them, the plastic will also suffer from age.

:iagree: good advice ..take it..nuff said..:smile2:
 

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How does the drive belt affect the timing?
I think I take your advice and do the lot.
It has been known for the auxiliary drive belt to fail and get tangled up with the cambelt and cause catastrophic damage.

Also keeping an ear open for those little squeaks and squeals of something being not right, seizing or wearing out is essential. If it starts making a different noise it usually means something is on its way out.

:smile2: :grin2: :laugh: >:)
 

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Belt change was 5 years or 60K miles
Renault have since changed to 6 years or 72K (IIRC)

So belt at least is past its use by date.
Age related time is due to elastomers leaching out of the rubber and breaking up due to that.
Whether this is happening to your belt, dunno but given that you will severely damage the engine should it fail, no brainer to change belt.

The rest of the items???
Normal to change all but if you are feeling brassic and DIY so not going to incur labour charges....

Water pump, wear and tear due to mileage mainly.
If it does start leaking, unlikely to damage timing but will need to redo timing to change.

Pulleys and tensioner.
Again, wear is more mileage related but grease will age... sealed for life bearings (hah) so is toss a coin.
If any sign of wear, not turning smoothly, clicking, replace. If one does fail, so does timing.
I'd change them but your choice.

Do change auxiliary belt even if it looks okay, that is aging the same as the cam belt and failure can throw timing.
Same choice on pulleys and tensioner on that.

Only caveat on pulleys, if any are plastic bodied, change them, the plastic will also suffer from age.
a few years ago i would have agreed with this... not any more.

in 2012 or so i did the timing belt on my laguna. as it had only don about 30000 miles at the time i didn't bother to change the waterpump..
5000 miles later the pump failed at speed on the motorway, leaked for a hour or so (i reckon) then the bearing seized and snapped the timing belt.
a full set of valves, a belt kit and water pump, several hundred in sundry costs and 3 days of my time later, the car was running again.

having spoken to a few mechanics about it since, re-tensioning a new belt onto a old water pump often causes failure a few thousand miles later.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the warning.
I ordered a full kit almost two weeks ago and finally, they turned up today. (Thank's buycarparts.co.uk who send their parts from Germany) and I think the
drive tensioner is the wrong one.
Rant aside, nice weather tomorrow to do the job.
 

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It has been known for the auxiliary drive belt to fail and get tangled up with the cambelt and cause catastrophic damage.

Also keeping an ear open for those little squeaks and squeals of something being not right, seizing or wearing out is essential. If it starts making a different noise it usually means something is on its way out.

:smile2: :grin2: :laugh: >:)
Came across this
https://ww2.gates.com/europe/file_display_common.cfm?thispath=Europe/documents_module&file=TB 018_E2_Renault 5PK_6PK .pdf

Somewhere else I read that Renault did this to reduce noise . Can't find that page atm.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Done the job, water pump, timing belt, timing tensioner, drive belt & tensioner.
I got a few problems:

1, The timing belt is sliding off the pully by about 1mm, I slackened the belt and pushed it all the way to the back of the pully
but it moves back to the front and hangs over about 1mm.

2, I broke the top front timing covers and can't find anywhere to buy a new one.

3, I got an oil leak, It must be coming from the crank setting screw cap bolt, I forgot to thread lock it, It is very hard to reach,

4, I could only fit in 5 lts of coolant when I think there should be 7 lts. Only found 1 bleed screw when the manual said there should be 2.

5, Finally I could only tighten the crank bolt 20 NM + 60 degrees I'm not sure if that's enough but I did put thread lock on it.

I would appreciate any information anyone could provide.
Thanks
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Not sure how you have tightened the crank pulley to only get 20nm, as sparkplugs are more than that,
That is NOWHERE near enough..
Its not holding the crank pulley on as such, Its locking the crank pulley to the sprocket , to stop the sprocket, when the engine gets hot from slipping..
Lock tight will not help here, thats only locking the bolt in place..
Just letting you know...
Get your car in gear, get your handbrake on fully and tighten some more..

Your belt, not sure what to suggest , as this could either be the water pump, or tensioner, that one is not sitting true to the engine for the belt to move forward.. or its designed like that
Did you check, before you removed the original belt, could you see the front parts of the Cam sprockets, .?
It cannot come off completely as you would see signs in your timing cover, where the belt would be rubbing.
Your oil leak, tighten the plug some more,
Covers, not a clue, apart from some Gorilla glue and repair
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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20NM + 60 degrees, (1/6 th of a circle) , Thats tighten and a pinch,, = Nothing..
He has tightened his battery clamp more than that..:grin2:

40 NM + 115 degrees
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's supposed to be 40NM and 70 degrees.
My torque wrench only went to 20 NM lol and I tightened it be selecting 5th gear and using a steel rod to jam the wheel hub up as I don't have a ramp to
do it from under the car, I used a wheel wrench which was awkward as it has a 45 degree bend at the top not a 90 degree like a breaker bar. I tightened as much as I could before the steel rod started to bend.
I'll have to invest in a decent breaker bar and torque wrench.
I hope the tensioner and pump are ok, the tensioner was INA make and the water pump was Airtex. I originally had a Continental timing kit but the water pump was wrong so had to go to my local parts store and get whatever they had.

That crankshaft tool stop plug thing is so awkward to get to, other than taking the whole front end off the car it practically imposable, I had to use all my extension bars and 2 universal joint sockets to do it. It be easier to leave the crank timing tool alone and just lock the cam, then use the timing marks for the crankshaft.

If I had to do this job again id wait till I got plenty of time and take the whole engine out, that way I would replace everything including the clutch and be fairly confident that all the major work is done in one go.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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What engine is this on.? the 1.5
Just reread as thought you were on a 16v petrol, yours being a 15. dci .
Its 120NM +95 +or- 15 degrees. for a M14 bolt
Or 60NM + 100 + OR - 15 Degrees For an M12 bolt

This is off Haynes/Atris, And Autodata, No other lower torque settings shown for a MODUS on 2011 engine
This info would have been had from Renault..

Sorry just amended it..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It's what Renault sent me via email when I asked for the parts.
It's a 1.5 DCi K9K turbo engine
Not sure if it was an M12 or M14, but it must be the larger one as it needed an 18mm socket.
How can it be 120NM + 95NM wouldn't that just be 215 NM? or do you mean 95 degrees.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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after the MR378X ( Modus ) What are the other numbers that the pdf shows,,
(Your File you received off Renault)
Have amended the last post sorry, not a clue why I put two nm figures
 
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