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Discussion Starter #1
Evening all,

Question for you electrical experts out there.... My instrument cluster fuse (15A) blows the minute you turn on the ignition, everything else seems to work, starts runs etc. The display still shows the indicators flashing and immobiliser but nothing else, no speed RPM or warning lights. It also doesn’t make the ticking noise for indicators.

I have got the dash apart enough to to remove the instrument cluster and disconnect it. With it disconnected the fuse still blows immediately. I have checked for chafed wires and all that jazz but cant see Anything obvious.

So my question, is there anything else that is on this fuse other than the display?

Cheers in advance!
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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side/tail lights working?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Going to need your Oval plate to help here..
No chance of finding a diagram without it
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Going to need your Oval plate to help here..
No chance of finding a diagram without it
It’s a repainted ex PTS ambulance (slow one) nothing inside door apertures - all I can see is a VIN - I can send you this via PM if that’s any good?
 

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the simple answer is you have a short somewhere in the circuit, the only reason it is every time you turn the ignition on is because the ignition circuit is generating that circuit, this helps narrow down the location slightly as you now no it is not going to be a circuit with a permanent live feed, the fact it is blowing the fuse with the dash disconnected rules the dash out as the cause, have you had any thing aftermarket added lately, stereo, dash cam etc.? may also be worth looking at the abs sensors on the front as one of these is usually also the speed sensor (generally the near side) if a stone had been caught up and damaged the sensor enough it may be shorting it, normally just causes an abs fault but you never know so worth a quick look plus if all your warning lights are out you wouldn't know if that was the cause due to no warning lights. hopefully that should help but unfortunately short circuits can be absolutely any where and either a pig to find or you may find it quickly, have a wiring diagram will definitely speed things up but you can manage with out one as long as you can use a multi meter and it will take a lot longer (do not use a multimeter blindly unless you have unplugged the vehicle computers as this can cause damage resulting in a new ECU if you probe the wrong connection, and never use on the Safety Restraint System unless you really know what your doing i.e. never ever check an airbag with one, it is almost a certainty you will deploy it)
 

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just had a thought, i just remembered looking at a video on a non start issue on a traffic (was looking for a different reason, can't remember what it was now and stumble across it) definitely worth a look as it may well direct you strait to the fault ( know yours isn't a non starter but wouldn't be surprised if its the same liquid contamination problem).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
the simple answer is you have a short somewhere in the circuit, the only reason it is every time you turn the ignition on is because the ignition circuit is generating that circuit, this helps narrow down the location slightly as you now no it is not going to be a circuit with a permanent live feed, the fact it is blowing the fuse with the dash disconnected rules the dash out as the cause, have you had any thing aftermarket added lately, stereo, dash cam etc.? may also be worth looking at the abs sensors on the front as one of these is usually also the speed sensor (generally the near side) if a stone had been caught up and damaged the sensor enough it may be shorting it, normally just causes an abs fault but you never know so worth a quick look plus if all your warning lights are out you wouldn't know if that was the cause due to no warning lights. hopefully that should help but unfortunately short circuits can be absolutely any where and either a pig to find or you may find it quickly, have a wiring diagram will definitely speed things up but you can manage with out one as long as you can use a multi meter and it will take a lot longer (do not use a multimeter blindly unless you have unplugged the vehicle computers as this can cause damage resulting in a new ECU if you probe the wrong connection, and never use on the Safety Restraint System unless you really know what your doing i.e. never ever check an airbag with one, it is almost a certainty you will deploy it)
Legend thanks..... through more googling it appears the typical 2007 master has tacho/pre tension on seatbelt and airbag system also on this fuse (scary) . I am confident enough to start tracing the wires however I can see they disappear into a very well wrapped loom just aft of the fuse board. I wonder where the actual junctions are for each circuit protected by the fuse? If I knew this I could confidently unwrap the loom a bit and isolate each item as a cause.

with regards recently done work. I plumbed ina speaker wire behind the fuse board and display however the blowon’t didn’t occur until about a week after. I am looking at the fuse block and wonderingif I can get enough slack to remove this partially and see what’s going on behind..... that’s tomorrow’s job
 

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If you have used any self tapping screws or metal clips with sharp corners I would be checking these areas first just in case through vibration they have worn through wires shorting them, and would definitely be checking the multi plug the guys speaks of under the steering column, i believe he says in the video that this plug leads back to the UCH which is your computer for all the electronics inside the vehicle so any shorts in this connector would definitely cause all sorts of issues
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you have used any self tapping screws or metal clips with sharp corners I would be checking these areas first just in case through vibration they have worn through wires shorting them, and would definitely be checking the multi plug the guys speaks of under the steering column, i believe he says in the video that this plug leads back to the UCH which is your computer for all the electronics inside the vehicle so any shorts in this connector would definitely cause all sorts of issues
Okay will check and report back!
 
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