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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I have a 2003 Renault Megane mk2 (Petrol) with a shade under 100,000 miles on the clock, which is experiencing 'Electronic Fault' displayed on the dashboard.

After a quick google I followed the instructions of dismanting and cleaning up the engine bay fuse box and battery terminal with WD40. The battery terminal was very grubby, but the fuse box in remarkable condition (I thought).

After this procedure I had no power at all, realised I'd broken one of the fuses in battery terminial, replaced the battery terminal, and am now back to having 'Electronic Fault'.

Any ideas on what to do next? I'm prepared to put effort into making the car go, as it has considerable sentimental value. However, for a few-hundred pound car, you have to draw a line under the expense somewhere.

Is the ECU the next suspect? How hard is replacing the ECU? The c.£40 a second hand ECU is on ebay would be an acceptable cost, but I haven't been able to find a guide to how to replace it, or even know if this would be a suitable remedy.

Thanks in advance,

Speedometer Trip computer Odometer Tachometer Motor vehicle
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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ecu would not be plug and play

And you would need, an ecu, uch and the steering lock, and keycard
BUT that does not say this will cure your issue.
You need to pay money and get it diagnosed, or buy a diagnostic tool for RENAULT
READ this section for a tool that will work
(DONT just dive in on ebay and buy a tool, the sellers lie)

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for this reply. I don't see paying to have it diagnosed as an option (which leaves getting a tool).

Getting a non runner to a garage and paying (what £50?) to have it diagnosed, and then being presented with a many hundred pound bill for parts and labour, means I should have just scrapped it to begin with.

Are there any realistic suspects other than the ECU for this fault?

It looks like the white Autel AP200 is the tool of choice on the forums? About £70 on eBay or considerably less if you're willing to wait for it to come from China. Is this legit:

55.09US $ 37% OFF|Autel AP200 Bluetooth OBD2 Scanner Code Reader with Full Systems Diagnoses AutoVIN TPMS IMMO Service Family DIYers PK EasyDiag|Code Readers & Scan Tools| - AliExpress

And would this give me what I need to diagnose the problem - potentially with some help interpreting the results.

Is this the sort of kit I'd then end up needing (not quite right for my 1.4)


For a 50:50 chance of getting it going again, I think I'd be up for having a go at this, if concensus is that it's a good move, and there is some sort of guide or diagram that would help me find, extract and replace the right parts.

Cheers,
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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ok lets start again here
so the car is a non-runner
what happened, were you driving , or it just refused to start
is it petrol or diesel

does it crank ( engine turn )when you press the start button
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok lets start again here
so the car is a non-runner
what happened, were you driving , or it just refused to start
is it petrol or diesel

does it crank ( engine turn )when you press the start button
Yes, non-runner. The wife attempted to jump start the neighbour's car - the procedure failed due to Renault displaying electronic fault and refusing to start. Whilst it's unclear if the two events are related, I'm working on the presumption they are.

It's a petrol 1.4 renault megane authentique. 2003 plate.

The dash is solidly displaying electronic fault as pictured. No cranking, no response at all to pressing the start button.

My initial presumption was that something had become dislodged connecting the jump leads, so followed the clean and reassemble the battery terminal and fuse box process.

So here we are, potentially needing some more in depth diagnostics before diagnosing it with toasted ECU.

Appreciate thoughts on what sensible next steps are to diagnose/try some 'usual' fixes of the fault/or an honest opinion that it's the end of the line.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Sorry Not understanding here
THERE was no fault ( That you are aware of ) before wife helped a neighbour ?

Under bonnet fuse box DID you check ALL fuses with a meter or visibly inspect them

Sounds like a fuse has blown

Fuses

The fuses on the battery
THE middle Large fuse is for the Starter (power supply)
But if solenoid on the starter is not being supplied with 12 volts+ when start button is pressed then this wont matter at this point

Can you hear a click when the start button is pressed
If yes, then as long as its coming from starter area. then solenoid is energising , and its not the Fuse in the under bonnet fuse box
So then check battery is fully charged fuse on battery is good , and Earths on battery are secure
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
THERE was no fault ( That you are aware of ) before wife helped a neighbour ?
Correct.

Under bonnet fuse box DID you check ALL fuses with a meter or visibly inspect them
I removed each fuse in the engine bay fuse box and visually inspected them and gave them a little clean up. All appeared good.

Prepared to go through each fuse with a multimeter if that's what we think is the right next step, as it's quite possible that I missed a blown fuse?

Reasonably confident it's not one of the three fuses on top of the battery, as I have just replaced these and the fault persists.

Are the Earths the black and brown cables coming out of the battery (which I assume go off to different parts of the chassis)? (Stupid question, but asking is better than getting it wrong)

Additional stupid question: Is the way to check that the battery is charged to check there is >12V across it with a multimeter?

I will check the earths, battery charge and see if there is a solenoid click this evening and post the outcome.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Put your multimeter on DC voltage if it has a 20 volt setting use this,
Black probe is negative red is positive
It MAKES no difference
Put black probe tip on negative terminal, red probe on positive terminal
If you get it the wrong way round it will just show a - SIGN in front of the reading You are after a reading of over 12.5 volts
You could just have a flat battery here so check this First before you start stripping
If flat charge the battery FIRST dont touch anything else just charge it
DONT get tempted to BUY a new battery to test, dont care if its 20 years old if it was ok before its ok now to test the car with If after charging it cranks you are winning

To test the fuses, put your multimeter on OHMS ,
Touch both probe tips together should read 0 , do this on each fuse, all these fuses should read 0 ( Or 0.1 to 0.2) if no reading then Fuse is blown,
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Hi,

All fuses in the engine bay fuse box, the 3 fuses on top of the battery, and the 3 fuses under the engine bay fuse box all read 0.3 ohms or less.

I also tested some of the fuses in the glove box - the ones that appear to protect critical functions, like UCH or 'Stop'. As they are fiddly to get out and in - and didn't have probes on the top to allow them to be tested in situ - I skipped over non-critical seeming ones like windows and the horn.

There is no power to the car at all, as the battery voltage reads 4.6V. I presume that the battery has run flat as it would have been displaying 'electronic fault' solidly on the dashboard for several days now. I'm a little surprised that that is enough to drain the battery.

Is the next step to get hold of a battery charging pack? Could a nearly dead battery have caused the electronic fault message? Otherwise charging the battery will just bring us back to the original position of having an unidentified fault on our hands?. If it's not a flat battery what is the next step to try fix or to diagnose?

Thanks for your input,

EDIT: After a little reading on charging batteries, it seems a reading of 4.6V is very dead, and potentially beyond charging? Which would mean a new battery, which is unlikely to solve the underlying problem. I've got a hunch the battery might actually be under warranty, however, as it's a shade over two years old.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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GO for a charge first.
Because your battery has been drained slowly good chance it will be ok
DONT take the battery back to where you bought it from reading that low.
They will refuse to replace it as they will know the car has made it go this low
 
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Yes, non-runner. The wife attempted to jump start the neighbour's car - the procedure failed due to Renault displaying electronic fault and refusing to start. Whilst it's unclear if the two events are related, I'm working on the presumption they are.

It's a petrol 1.4 renault megane authentique. 2003 plate.

The dash is solidly displaying electronic fault as pictured. No cranking, no response at all to pressing the start button.

My initial presumption was that something had become dislodged connecting the jump leads, so followed the clean and reassemble the battery terminal and fuse box process.

So here we are, potentially needing some more in depth diagnostics before diagnosing it with toasted ECU.

Appreciate thoughts on what sensible next steps are to diagnose/try some 'usual' fixes of the fault/or an honest opinion that it's the end of the line.
If I understand this correctly the car failed when your wife connected the jump leads?
At the risk of her wrath can you ask her which two points she connected the leads to and were the other ends of the leads already connected to the other vehicle?
My guess is that the leads were shorted (or the wrong way round!), and they were connected not directly to the battery terminals but the +ve one after the fuses, hence blown fuses.
Also this won't explain the battery being at such a low voltage, unless the high current through the battery has buqqered the battery. If the leads were the wrong way round and connected after the fuse I don't want to sound negative here (pardon the pun) but you may have connected reverse voltage to all the car electrics. I hope not.
I think in the circumstances I would definitely disconnect the battery before you put it on charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Wozz - agree that the leads being shorted could have wrecked the battery, even if I am assured the process was carried out correctly - i.e. +ve to +ve, and -ve to ground. Even if that wasn't quite the case, I struggle to see what could have gone wrong.

It doesn't seem to be a fuse as every fuse on the vehicle I have managed to find has checked out with a multimeter.

I will have some more time to look at the car on Wednesday, so will charge the battery and/or try to make it go with external power, and post the outcome towards the end of the week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Make sure you disconnect the battery before you put a charger on it.
Don't use a battery charging pack.
What do you mean by not using a battery charging pack? Can you please explain how you mean to charge it. Everything I read about charging a battery says pop what looks like a charging pack across it.

I've managed to borrow a 'jump start' pack- it seems to just provide 12.5V or so I suppose I could use it (or the 12V mains charger for it?) To charge the battery.

It would be easier I would he easier to charge the thing if I could bring it inside, so I tried to remove the battery, but the thread on the bolt that holds the plate that holds the battery seems to be stripped off - it's very rusted, but just goes round and round. Additionally I couldn't get the neutral side battery terminal off - I couldn't get a spanner on it, and my 10mm socket is too shallow to reach the nut, with a cm or two of bolt protruding.

Thoughts? Having discounted the positive side battery terminal, and I can take the negative wires off the negative side (but there is what I think is a ground remaining on the negative battery terminal) is the advice to put the power pack across the positive and ground and leave it for a few hours to charge? Or advice on getting the battery out?

Thanks,
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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What are you trying to do, Charge the battery
Any of the terminals undone will do
On the negative terminal ( Same with the positive )
You take the WIRES off the battery terminal
The trick here is, tape the wires together about 6 inches away
Just put insulation tape around the wires so the negative wires are together ( Same for positive )
That way you can never miss not putting all wires back on the terminals
If using a jump pack. connect the positive terminal to the battery positive FIRST then the negative to the negative terminal
IT will need to be a bloody good jump pack to get the car going
WOULD not recommend it on your car as the battery is that flat


TO get the battery out ( Yep been there done that got lots of wet t-shirts on cars )

get a lever bar/screwdriver ( You will have loosened the plate slightly,)
In between the plate and battery,
Now at the same time you force the plate away from the battery lift the battery up.
Once the battery is out.

You can now get casing out to sort the turning nut
 

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What do you mean by not using a battery charging pack? Can you please explain how you mean to charge it. Everything I read about charging a battery says pop what looks like a charging pack across it.

I've managed to borrow a 'jump start' pack- it seems to just provide 12.5V or so I suppose I could use it (or the 12V mains charger for it?) To charge the battery.

It would be easier I would he easier to charge the thing if I could bring it inside, so I tried to remove the battery, but the thread on the bolt that holds the plate that holds the battery seems to be stripped off - it's very rusted, but just goes round and round. Additionally I couldn't get the neutral side battery terminal off - I couldn't get a spanner on it, and my 10mm socket is too shallow to reach the nut, with a cm or two of bolt protruding.

Thoughts? Having discounted the positive side battery terminal, and I can take the negative wires off the negative side (but there is what I think is a ground remaining on the negative battery terminal) is the advice to put the power pack across the positive and ground and leave it for a few hours to charge? Or advice on getting the battery out?

Thanks,
@Jeremy_Cricket This may be a language issue, sorry for any misunderstanding, but because you used the phrase "battery charging pack" I was concerned that you might mean one of those jump starting devices that boosts the battery to start it. If you meant a "battery charger" being one which connects to the mains, and you leave on the battery for some hours then that's OK. (but I'd still disconnect it)
 

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You only ever need disconnect either positive or negative
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
TL;DR: We now have red battery light and solid red (?) imobiliser light. Thanks for the help so far - a different fault seems like progress.

It took me a while to get the battery out for charging - all the prying and unscrewing just didn't get the nut to sit still and the bolt unscrew. Eventually I drilled out the bolt and ripped the plate off with a water pump wrench. If we do make this car run, I'll need to find a way of securing the battery.

Similar on the negative battery terminal. It was on mad tight and it was tricky to get purchase on, but the wrench got there in the end.

Battery charged in the house, and back in the car when reading almost 13V after an overnight cool down.

Now to give it a go: No invitation to insert the card, just the milage on the led display. Inserting it anyway and pressing start with the brake and clutch down (as you ordinarily would) causes the engine to turn (I think, hear the sound in the video), but not to fire. No response to a further press of the start button, unless you give it a decent amount of time.

Then we have a red battery light, and a solid red imobiliser light (picture).

A quick Google suggests to check the fuses - which I have done previously. I've also checked that the fuses and wires seem nicely seated in the fuse box, short of removing it again.

Thanks for the thoughts so far. Next ideas?

Speedometer Trip computer Tachometer Light Odometer


Video to hear it turning:
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Ok to get after ignition on
Its FEET off pedals
Car out of gear , press the unlock button on the key card
Insert the key card, press and hold the start button
WAIT, if nothing happens after 10 seconds, finger off, and press and hold the start button again.
All the dash will now light up

Back to your issue
Did you check the fuses under the bonnet lid
Side of the battery that fuse box Looks like this when the cover is off the fuse box

The fuse with the red line over it is the starter solenoid fuse
Automotive tire Automotive wheel system Gas Motor vehicle Machine


Check this ( DONT use this as a guide of where YOUR fuses are fitted As regards colour )
Take a picture of your fusebox, so when you pull all the fuses out to check them ,,,they go back in the same place
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
She goes! Thanks so much for the help.

After holding the start button for a few seconds the ignition then went off, and I was invited to remove the card, and then got insert card as usual.

So diagnosis is grubby electrical connections and/or dead battery - much better than needing a new UCH kit!

The only wrinkle is that I've mangled / drilled the battery retaining plate so need a new way to secure the battery. A like for like replacement of the plate probably won't work as the plastic thing which is meant to stop the nut rotating has also taken a beating.

I thought I'd get one of these tomorrow, and then should be back in business. Welcome opinions on whether that's a good approach.

Halfords Battery Clamp | Halfords UK

Thanks. And contributors welcome to a beer when passing SW London (wife's round).
 
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