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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

My megane 3 has got a knocking noise coming from the passenger side front (been going on for a month) only when going over bumps or holes in the road. It doesn't make make any noise on flat roads, turning, accelerating or braking. It especially makes it if I go over a speed hump, almost sounds like the wheel bounces twice or something. Anyway carried out some troubleshooting today and inspected the ball joint, wishbone and track rod. Mostly everything appeared fine except for some slight cracking on a bush on the wishbone (see pic). I decided to check the other side as well and it is in the same condition but I don't hear any knocking, so I'm wondering if it can be something else but not quite sure where to look. Is it possible that the crack is causing the noise? Or does anyone think it could be something else? I checked both sides for play with the wheel on (sideways and up and down) and it was solid, no movement.

Any advise is very much appreciated!

Thanks
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the advice!

Is there a way to test to top strut without taking the whole thing apart?
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Top mounts.
Usually can find if any play by working steering from side to side and feeling, listening.
And bouncing or rocking the vehicle...don't get fingers trapped.
The top bearing can jerk/jump a little when worn.

I'd check the drop links first though...funny little rods with "track rod end" type bearings between strut and roll bar ends.
A little play can sound out of all proportion to the amount, should be zero play.
These things (example only)

Relatively cheap and easy fix if it is them... worst is it taper is not gripping so nut simply rotates... give it a smack to set it into the taper or grind the nut off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I've just had another look. I checked the coil for any cracks/snaps and all seems fine there. I checked the drop link and I was able to twist it (see pics), but it wouldn't move up and down or sideways.

Before jacking the car up, I rocked the front side of where the noise is coming up and I can definitely hear a tapping coming from the top strut. I then did it on the other side to get a comparison and there is a noise, but it sounded a bit cushioned/deadened, so maybe that side is on its way out - I have heard that you're supposed to change both sides at the same time so if it is that, then I'll just do that.
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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Drop links should rotate/twist.
As long as no play, use a lever to double check.

Top mounts... plastic holder and bearing.
If intending to DIY, be careful, them springs are under a lot of tension.
You will need decent spring compressors, hooked finger type not the older flattish hooks.
Should be okay to swap only the one side, if springs or struts both are recommended.
Don't let me stop you if you want to do both sides.

Basics of the job.
Disconnect lower hub from Track Rod.
Drop link from strut
Loosen and remove strut mounting pinch bolt.
Any wire or brake pipe clips from strut
Remove hub from strut, lower hub and support it, don't pull out the drive shaft.
Cable ties are your friend.
Scuttle panel off for access to top mount bolts.
Mark a line for alignment when refitting.
Three bolts, strut can now come out... don't undo the big central nut.

Fit spring compressors and compress till top mount loose, remove the big nut.
Remove top bearing assembly, replace with a new one, make sure spring into angles on the mount properly.
Stick the bolt back on.
Relax and remove compressors.
Refit it all.
Depending on tight bolts and tapers, hour to two per side.
May need to drive a screwdriver/chisel into the pinch bolt slot to open it and get the strut out.
Probably a video or two on you tube to show the job ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Perfect! Thanks for the guide. I have found a detailed video on youtube (
) on how to replace the top strut, so I'll give that a go.

Thanks for your help.
 
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