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Premium Member
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285 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
For all those people out there who need to do this but don't have the funds, here's what I've done instead of changing the whole control arm, I tracked down a knocking noise the other day to a failed ball joint, being a cheap skate I couldn't fork out for the full control arm, so shopped around and bought the ball joint itself for an almighty £12.50... what a PITA it was for fitting but got there in the end, there probably was an easier way to do it but I'm a derrr, anyways I started by securing the car off the ground!!a big must because I'm paranoid enough as it is lol...cracked the ball joint nut so I wasn't fighting with it later and you'll see how the original joint is fitted to the control arm, it looks like it's held together with some kind of pins, infact they are a pin which has been squashed to form a rivet, grind down the bottom of the pins phlush with the ball joint bracket and then drive a chisel of some sort (I used a joiners Chishel to start with then a bolster chisel) through where the joint meets the control arm, when that's off get your pickle fork and separate the joint, knock the left overs of the pins up and your all done...for new joint do in reverse of what you've just done but I had to lift the brake disk and hub with a bottle jack to line up the new holes and bolts,

I know ive rambled a little but it may help a few others out there as I searched and searched the net and couldn't find a thing on doing it like this let alone doing anything to meg 3 1.4 tce :O I've took pics of the before and after but didn't take any in between as I was too busy stressing and swearing, well deserved 0% beer for me lol
 

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Premium Member
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285 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to say aswell that I had movement in the wheel at 3oclock, only when pulling it not pushing it, 3oclock and 9oclock movement is put down to tie rods I think, not 100%
 

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Super Moderator
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8,480 Posts
I had to one on mine when I had it and like you just bought the joint and not the arm :crying2:

What a nightmare. If it's any help if you or anyone needs to do one again when you have ground the rivets off at the bottom I found it easier if you get a pointed chisel and either raise or lower the car so you can wedge the chisel on the rivet you've ground off and the floor and then smack the arm it's self down towards the floor. I placed a piece of wood on the arm and got me faithful Lump Hammer out :grin2:

You can get much more of a hit on it instead of trying to knock the rivet up from the bottom..

Stu
 

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Premium Member
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285 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Flaming ball ache isnt it haha, I'll bear that in mind for the opposite side ;) I'm unsure as to wether they should be changed In pairs like the drop links should or should I wait for the the other to fail :/
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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40,405 Posts
Wait to fail,, was it much harder to take complete arm off.
Scenic. modus, Hour and 10 minutes, off and on for a new one..
So would think, 2 hours in all with that, taking it off, grinding pins driving pins out, by laying over a long reach socket. Replacing wishbone, then the ball joint..
 

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Premium Member
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285 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The opposite side ball joint, I'm no mechanic and only have limited tools lol, I'll try and maybe fail, maybe win but at least I saved a few £'s ;) I know for next time now and it may help others out too, how do you take the controll arm out if you don't mind me asking? Is it hard and what extra tools are needed?
 
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