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Discussion Starter #21
Start the car up & spray all round inlet with brake cleaner, upon noticing revs increase problem found. Avoid exhaust manifold due to fire risk regards Richard
Been there tried that on far to many occasions with to much hope .. manifold is now well and truly sealed with sum high heat sealant.. problem persists.. gotta be throttle body gear assembly thingy or whatever I'm still learning lol

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Another thing that could cause problems with the idle is the IAC valve. Did you clean that? Many people clean the throttle body but totally forget about this valve.. You can do this with some carburetor cleaner spray. It's very easy to come off. Try not to expose the small rubber o-ring of the IAC valve to the cleaner as it will corrode the rubber. Plenty of resources/videos on the web on how to do that.

After cleaning that you may have to do a reset on the electronics of the car (in my Megane it's done by turning on the ignition, waiting for a while, turning it off again and repeating several times without turning on the engine).

I've read about cases where idle related problems were solved by replacing all the coolant of the car.. I'm not sure why and how but it seemed to work. It might be worth it to check this out as well..
 

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Is your oil dipstick and filler plug both properly seated and are their seals present? (thinking possible air leak via the pcv system to intake?)



Whats the odo reading? (thinking that bad blowby on a worn engine can enter intake via that route)


Smoking? (either at idle or while revving or driving)


Aircon - if fitted - if you switch it on and fan on full speed does the revs drop back to normal and as expected?


Clamp the rubber vacuum hose shut or plug it near the engine preferably - any change ?


Alternator - I know you said you measured the DC component as being ok, but guys are saying a faulty alternator can output spikey power and its THAT that upsets the ECU and driving it nuts causing the problem. Safest way to confirm - remove aux drive belt and start engine for a short period only - problem solved (alternator not running)?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Is your oil dipstick and filler plug both properly seated and are their seals present? (thinking possible air leak via the pcv system to intake?)



Whats the odo reading? (thinking that bad blowby on a worn engine can enter intake via that route)


Smoking? (either at idle or while revving or driving)


Aircon - if fitted - if you switch it on and fan on full speed does the revs drop back to normal and as expected?


Clamp the rubber vacuum hose shut or plug it near the engine preferably - any change ?


Alternator - I know you said you measured the DC component as being ok, but guys are saying a faulty alternator can output spikey power and its THAT that upsets the ECU and driving it nuts causing the problem. Safest way to confirm - remove aux drive belt and start engine for a short period only - problem solved (alternator not running)?
Dip sticks always popped out for sum1 reason even before this started, as for the odo m8 I'm lost with what that means lol.. and as for smoke I don't see any I've checked for that case it was burning oil or sumfin burning anyway but nope nufn like that .. I'm baffled absolutely baffled the only thing I can possibly think of is the plastic hear cogs on the throttle body housing but if that's the case then I presume new throttle body it is .. but as I stated at the start of this it all began with my old clutch starting to fail and now even with a shiny new 1 it's not room that issue away so it leads me to believe the issue is gonna lay between where the 1st thing failed and where it's failing now which is RENAULT

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odo = odometer ................... total distance covered by vehicle.


Popping out of dipstick needs to be fixed and the source/reason addressed ................... either o-rings/seals or the wrong unit or too much sump compression. It popping does affect PCV system and thus mixture preparation .......... could also affect your idling. Most importantly it allows water/rubbish/dust into the oil.


Yeah you said it started BEFORE replacing the clutch but imo a rotating chunk of iron isn't able to affect the idling ........... and a new chunk of rotating iron isn't going to either.


Was it ever idling properly?



Alternator - I know you said you measured the DC component as being ok, but guys are saying a faulty alternator can output spikey power and its THAT that upsets the ECU and driving it nuts causing the problem. Safest way to confirm - remove aux drive belt and start engine for a short period only - problem solved (alternator not running)?
............ do try this and for giggles have a quality high power charger (regulated switch-mode 20AMP+) connected or another vehicle idling with jumpers to your vehicle's battery while checking (keeps the ECU from deciding the battery voltage is low and then increasing idling again to charge the battery:wink2:)




Are you the only/first owner of the vehicle?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
odo = odometer ................... total distance covered by vehicle.


Popping out of dipstick needs to be fixed and the source/reason addressed ................... either o-rings/seals or the wrong unit or too much sump compression. It popping does affect PCV system and thus mixture preparation .......... could also affect your idling. Most importantly it allows water/rubbish/dust into the oil.


Yeah you said it started BEFORE replacing the clutch but imo a rotating chunk of iron isn't able to affect the idling ........... and a new chunk of rotating iron isn't going to either.


Was it ever idling properly?



............ do try this and for giggles have a quality high power charger (regulated switch-mode 20AMP+) connected or another vehicle idling with jumpers to your vehicle's battery while checking (keeps the ECU from deciding the battery voltage is low and then increasing idling again to charge the battery:wink2:)




Are you the only/first owner of the vehicle?
Nah I'm the 4th maybe 5th not sure tbh .. I've tried the hook up jump leads and testing the power units to see what outputs I get and what falls below it's expected level all mechanical parts seem absolutely find and if they weren't I replaced with I oem parts not even after market upgrades .. I will dig deeper into the dipstick issue tho, as I was informed by atleast 4 independent ppl that wudnt be the source well know what they've all turned out wrong on what they thot it was anyway so ima give ur idea a run thru today and try source why it won't stay in it's place

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Discussion Starter #27
Nah I'm the 4th maybe 5th not sure tbh .. I've tried the hook up jump leads and testing the power units to see what outputs I get and what falls below it's expected level all mechanical parts seem absolutely find and if they weren't I replaced with I oem parts not even after market upgrades .. I will dig deeper into the dipstick issue tho, as I was informed by atleast 4 independent ppl that wudnt be the source well know what they've all turned out wrong on what they thot it was anyway so ima give ur idea a run thru today and try source why it won't stay in it's place

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Oh and yeah it idled perfectly up until the clutch started to slip and since then it's stayed persistently even with a new clutch ..

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've tried the hook up jump leads and testing the power units
..................... no use ............. you have to remove the alternator from the equation on a running motor at normal operating temperature and without the ECU interfering to check the idling in real time............... see recipe again


it idled perfectly up until the clutch started to slip
as in the exact same time you noticed it the first time? .............. clutch slip normally is progressive
 

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Discussion Starter #29
..................... no use ............. you have to remove the alternator from the equation on a running motor at normal operating temperature and without the ECU interfering to check the idling in real time............... see recipe again
Ah I get u now, I've got 1 of my friends coming over today and he's maybe a bit more clued up than me so I'm gonna run this idea by him and tbh give it a try as I'm baffled and so was he the other day so thanks very much cos that's not sumfin that I would have thot of tbh and neither has my friend in any conversation we've had regarding this issue

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I would want to get the car on a scanner tbh and see whether or not the ECU actually gets informed of the status of the clutch/brake switches even though you say you did check on those ................. broken wire/bad connector
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I would want to get the car on a scanner tbh and see whether or not the ECU actually gets informed of the status of the clutch/brake switches even though you say you did check on those ................. broken wire/bad connector
I've been over the full wiring loom from front to back of the car and I mean proper from pulling wires from behind a headlight to wires behind the engine to under the car in the boot even along the roof liner.. since I cudnt find anything mechanical I spent 2 days searching for a wire fault .. and obd2 don't give no codes nor am I that clued up on the other stuff the obd2 kicks out but I am learning it I've gotta otherwise the obd2 ain't much use to me

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I've been over the full wiring loom from front to back of the car and I mean proper from pulling wires from behind a headlight to wires behind the engine to under the car in the boot even along the roof liner.. since I cudnt find anything mechanical I spent 2 days searching for a wire fault .. and obd2 don't give no codes nor am I that clued up on the other stuff the obd2 kicks out but I am learning it I've gotta otherwise the obd2 ain't much use to me

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Simple OBD interface basically only looks at engine and emissions related info hence your limiting experience ................. you need something like CLIP that speaks proper Renault and that can tell you the status of all signals/parameters to the ECU and other computers without even opening the bonnet/hood ................. (I also have an Autel 802 that can do about 95% of CLIP's functionality)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Simple OBD interface basically only looks at engine and emissions related info hence your limiting experience ................. you need something like CLIP that speaks proper Renault and that can tell you the status of all signals/parameters to the ECU and other computers without even opening the bonnet/hood ................. (I also have an Autel 802 that can do about 95% of CLIP's functionality)
Are these bought direct from Renault or manufacturer .. I'm already on the ball to convince the Mrs that a top end diagnostic is what i want for my next birthday in July but I don't know if I can continue with this embarrassing issue of revving up and down at traffic lights that much longer

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You are not legally allowed to buy/own a CLIP or even talk about it here if you do own one - its apparently reserved for the exclusive use of angels and gods and people and dealers that don't know what the hell they are talking about enabling them to charge you a small fortune to often tell you nothing you didn't already know......................that said you can buy one elsewhere and put it to good use
 

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Discussion Starter #35
You are not legally allowed to buy/own a CLIP or even talk about it here if you do own one - its apparently reserved for the exclusive use of angels and gods and people and dealers that don't know what the hell they are talking about enabling them to charge you a small fortune to often tell you nothing you didn't already know......................that said you can buy one elsewhere and put it to good use
Yeah I'm literally trying to find out how i get 1 lol I was never an angel or a god but I was a little asshole devil so I'm sure the bad guy in me will track this down for sure

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