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Plenty of life left in that its just a hose taking air to the airbox..if it splits just wind some gaffer tape around it as a temp repair.. lol
Agreed - they are actually covered in a sorta soft-touch material like outer skin nowadays - MB been doing it for years and have never replaced one yet ................. so normal and nothing to do
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Thank you everybody for all your help.

My list of suspects looks like this:

a) ignition coil(s) (apparently there are two actual coils in the coil pack for the 1.2 engine);

b) spark plugs;

c) crankshaft sensor; (although I've had it out and cleaned it and it's still magnetic (but it has no metal tip - I assume it's a later design?)

d) camshaft sensor;

e) MAP sensor.

f) HT leads (though they look (clean and dry and in good condition);


However...

The "hesitation" or "misfire" only happens above 2000 rpm - possibly even 3000 rpm. Until then... it's fine.

I drove it around today for a bit trying to work out what's going on.

Below 2000 rpm it seems to run OK. Somewhere between 2 and 3K (and above) it hesitates as the revs rise. But it's a "soft" hesitation, so I don't think all the cylinders are cutting out. It's like it's "stuttering" but it certainly doesn't feel like it's cutting out, big style cutting out.

Am I right in thinking that this rules out the plugs? Or can plugs break down - fail - as the revs rise? It's only done about 15K.

If it was the coil pack... I understand that there are 2 coils in there. Could that be it? Soft hesitation. Maybe just one side going down?

HT leads look OK. Like the rest of the inside of the engine compartment, it's very clean - mint.

Could their be another suspect? g)...? An injector?

I've thrown a bottle of a proprietary brand of Injector Cleaner in the tank, but it didn't help. Actually, it did seem to at first. But then it didn't afterwards.

No check engine light and no codes.

Grateful for any suggestions please.
 

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Super mod..
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Thank you everybody for all your help.

My list of suspects looks like this:

a) ignition coil(s) (apparently there are two actual coils in the coil pack for the 1.2 engine); yes this correct

b) spark plugs;

c) crankshaft sensor; (although I've had it out and cleaned it and it's still magnetic (but it has no metal tip - I assume it's a later design?) yours should be a blue sensor and early ones were black

d) camshaft sensor;

e) MAP sensor. these can be tested ..look on you tube to see how..but be careful because the rubber grommet it sits in can snap off and what is left can fall into the inlet manifold

f) HT leads (though they look (clean and dry and in good condition); dont judge by looks see you tube on how to test ign leads..


However...

The "hesitation" or "misfire" only happens above 2000 rpm - possibly even 3000 rpm. Until then... it's fine.

I drove it around today for a bit trying to work out what's going on.

Below 2000 rpm it seems to run OK. Somewhere between 2 and 3K (and above) it hesitates as the revs rise. But it's a "soft" hesitation, so I don't think all the cylinders are cutting out. It's like it's "stuttering" but it certainly doesn't feel like it's cutting out, big style cutting out.

Am I right in thinking that this rules out the plugs? Or can plugs break down - fail - as the revs rise? It's only done about 15K. I had an issue with plugs on a Mk1 cortina that only misfired at high revs..might be worth changing them out..if it doesnt fix it you still have a set then for when they do need changing..

If it was the coil pack... I understand that there are 2 coils in there. Could that be it? Soft hesitation. Maybe just one side going down? yes this is correct..

HT leads look OK. Like the rest of the inside of the engine compartment, it's very clean - mint.

Could their be another suspect? g)...? An injector? Never judge the condition of an ignition cable by the way it looks..

I've thrown a bottle of a proprietary brand of Injector Cleaner in the tank, but it didn't help. Actually, it did seem to at first. But then it didn't afterwards. It can work and has done from me in fuel injector cleaning but some are better than others..

No check engine light and no codes.

Grateful for any suggestions please.
 

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Super mod..
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You too... hope your back is better.
Improvement today.. thank god.. lets hope it stays that way.. I get itchy feet and want to do things then bugger it up again..my own worst enemy really..but I can't just lay in bed and do nothing..but end up there when it all goes t1t's up.. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #68
That's good to hear.

It's the reverse for me, in as much as exercise makes it get better. Sounds odd, but it does. Different ailments clearly..
 

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Multiple blown and bulged discs ..narrowing of the spinal cord arear in a few places.. trapped nerves in a few places as well and riddled with arthritis ..been with me now for 14 years ..2 years after we moved into our current home I woke up one morning and couldnt move..had fallen asleep on the sofa that night and was stuck on there for the next few months until I could be moved.. been a bit of a turbulent time really and have even put my back out having a poop 😄
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Phil, you mentioned that some fuel injector cleaners were more effective than others. Are you able to say which is your preferred brand please? I'm tempted to give it another go before I start replacing things. The one I used required me to pour the whole bottle into a full tank of fuel. But I've also heard that with some the preferred technique is to run the tank right down low and then pour the recommended amount in so that it's more concentrated - or at least less diluted. Do you subscribe to that theory?

What's making me think it might be an injector problem is that it definitely only happens above 2000 - 3000 rpm and I've managed to convince myself (rightly or wrongly) that it's related to throttle opening sizes. Am I right in thinking that the injector sprays a larger volume of fuel into the combustion chamber when the throttle opening is larger? And if it does, that a clogged or dirty nozzle will present issues as the throttle opening increases? Sorry, but most of my mechanical experience is with motorcycles with carburettor engines. I've never worked on a fuel injected engine before.
 

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Super mod..
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And this is why..I was on Fiat forum back then and deckschairs5 was very knowledgeable and as he said he didnt believe in snake oil and I certainly wasnt until I tried it.. other positive cure is to get them sonically cleaned but that means taking them out and finding someone who can do it for you.. someone else might know another way so if they do maybe they will post up here as well..will also say I dont use super market fuel in my cars ..believe that petrol stations gave a better blend of fuel and cleaning agents in their petrol

 

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Hope the cleaning helps to sort it out.
I must say I'm still a bit confused why the system isn't flagging up an error code. Any injector stuttering should cause a mixture mismatch, i.e. what's coming out (measured by the lambda sensor) won't match with what's been requested (by the throttle sensor etc) and what's being supplied (all the other sensors). Bit of an over-simplification, but I'm sure you know what I mean! Maybe it's within tolerance, so the computer does allow a certain variation before saying it's a problem. But I know what it's like as a driver to have such a thing going on. I had the same years ago with a carburettor and it was hard to sort out back then.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Fuel consumption is only in the high 20's but it's very rural around here and it does a lot of short journeys.
Just been reading through the thread and this from your first post strikes me....
Would I be right in assuming loads of short journeys, often not really getting hot and rarely having a blow out?
And unless you are a boy racer, quite possibly not using all the revs?
If so, before you dig much deeper or get to changing things, might I suggest an Italian Tune Up.
Go out for a trip somewhere where you can open it up and cruise at higher revs for a while, ignore it if the car nags you to change up, let the engine rev and keep it there (obviously within speed limits). If you can keep it above 3K and better 4 for a while, lovely, will blow the cobwebs out.

The only other thing I'd suggest is an oil change..... low mileage cars often don't get changed as often as they should, forget the 18K on mileage, 12 monthly is what you should be doing ... and may do but often people don't.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Thanks both. Although I've not got a Check Engine light on I have checked it with an OBD2 reader, but it didn't find any codes. I've also given it quite a few Italian Tune Ups ;) but unfortunately with no improvement. The short journey bit is dead right though.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Just read that post that you sent me the link to Phil. Very impressive stuff indeed. I was about to go out and put some new brake pads on the bike, but I think I'll go for a trawl around the Accessory shops instead and see if any one has got any of that Comma Petrol Magic stuff.
 

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Super mod..
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Just read that post that you sent me the link to Phil. Very impressive stuff indeed. I was about to go out and put some new brake pads on the bike, but I think I'll go for a trawl around the Accessory shops instead and see if any one has got any of that Comma Petrol Magic stuff.
Again it may or may not solve the problem but only by trying will you find out..I had the same problem on my clio when i first bought it and could never find the solution for it and it corrected itself at a later date..mine was in first gear tho and not at higher reves like yours..
 

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Discussion Starter #79
It's certainly worth a try. Everywhere's closed in Sleepy Hollow unfortunately. It'll be Monday now. But yes. If that stuff doesn't work - I'll have to try replacing stuff. I've found somewhere that seems to be a Comma stockist so it sounds hopeful.
 

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Drive it like you stole it once you put any "cleaner" in..... best if you can get on a motorway, how rural are you?
 
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