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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I have a 2009 mk3 scenic which failed it’s MOT. Front spring, both rear discs and pads and a leak from ns rear brake line.
I read up on here how to do it all and have got it done, followed a method without using any software to rewind the motors on the Calipers and all works great except I have a “check parking break” on the dash.
My question is, my mot is done at a local type/brake/service place would them plugging in their epb tool and setting it to service mode and then back solve this? If so, I’m hoping they just add a little extra to the price on top of the mot.
Thank you
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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I am new so do apologies if it’s in the wrong place
Moved, no worries.

I assume you used a 12v supply on the motors to drive them back and then forward again once new pads in?

Not done that myself though there is a write up on here somewhere on it.

I'll see if I can find it.
But a reset at your local garage should do it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Moved, no worries.

I assume you used a 12v supply on the motors to drive them back and then forward again once new pads in?

Not done that myself though there is a write up on here somewhere on it.

I'll see if I can find it.
But a reset at your local garage should do it anyway.
I cut off the power wires from an old tyre inflater and used the car supply from the cigarette lighter to move them.
Even if the charge an extra £30 just to do it I don’t mind, just hoping they don’t get too greedy lol
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Quick update, The garage where I had the mot refused to plug their epb thing in as they didn’t do the work.
Now need to find one that works with the car and not to expensive..
 

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Hmmm.
Nothing wrong AFAIK with what you did but I reckon that somehow the EPB position ended up in the wrong place.
Thinking outloud on the stops.
EPB Off at dashboard.
Drive back, replace pads.
Drive forward.
This possibly puts position wrong...end position is with EPB on.

Don't know if that is what you did?

Should be better to drive back when EPB on, replace, drive forward.

You may get away with tickling them back with the 12v supply...to put them into EPB off position and then using dashboard switch to apply.

The other thing which did work with old style EPBs (sometimes) is that they did "learn" position.
But took a few cycles to do it.
Try operating EPB from dashboard a few times..twenty or so and then going for a drive, manually apply EPB at every stop...it may self clear.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Did you use the 12 volts to reset the calipers?
You use voltage to release, then voltage to reset. THEN switch ignition off, back on
Then apply handbrake
BEFORE you touch the brake pedal..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hmmm.
Nothing wrong AFAIK with what you did but I reckon that somehow the EPB position ended up in the wrong place.
Thinking outloud on the stops.
EPB Off at dashboard.
Drive back, replace pads.
Drive forward.
This possibly puts position wrong...end position is with EPB on.

Don't know if that is what you did?

Should be better to drive back when EPB on, replace, drive forward.

You may get away with tickling them back with the 12v supply...to put them into EPB off position and then using dashboard switch to apply.

The other thing which did work with old style EPBs (sometimes) is that they did "learn" position.
But took a few cycles to do it.
Try operating EPB from dashboard a few times..twenty or so and then going for a drive, manually apply EPB at every stop...it may self clear.
I did it with the epb on (my thinking was if it started and ended in an on position then it would save it) as I said it all works fine and the message on the dash isn’t a “stop” warning, may go back under and try winding back etc but from the off position.
As you say maybe a quick drive etc may remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did you use the 12 volts to reset the calipers?
You use voltage to release, then voltage to reset. THEN switch ignition off, back on
Then apply handbrake
BEFORE you touch the brake pedal..
hi, are you saying to do the winding with the ignition on?
 

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hi, are you saying to do the winding with the ignition on?
AM about to do this myself this weekend.
My process was going to be.
1. Reverse car apply EPB ON
2. Jack up and remove tyre
3. Unplug 12v cable connection and with spare battery wind back calliper back fully off.
4. Remove caliper and with brake fluid cap off in engine compress calliper to allow space for new pads.
5. Re apply calliper and pump brake till firm.
6. Re apply cap to fluid reservoir.
7. With 12 v battery wind back the caliper on.

Have I missed anything? Or done something wrong?
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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AM about to do this myself this weekend.
My process was going to be.
1. Reverse car apply EPB ON
2. Jack up and remove tyre
3. Unplug 12v cable connection and with spare battery wind back calliper back fully off.
4. Remove caliper and with brake fluid cap off in engine compress calliper to allow space for new pads.
Caliper is already fully back..driven back electrically
5. Re apply calliper and pump brake till firm.
refit caliper DO NOT pump brake
6. Re apply cap to fluid reservoir.
7. With 12 v battery wind back the caliper on.
Now you can try foot brake

Have I missed anything? Or done something wrong?[/COLOR]
Expand the quote
 
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