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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

The girlfriend's modus has started to take several attempts to start in the morning and when she leaves work. It turns over strongly but won't even splutter until take 5 or so, at which point it catches and then runs perfectly.

If not left for very long it starts perfectly all day until its left overnight again.

We've swapped to the spare key with no difference. On my basic obd scanner there are no historic, stored or pending faults.

Any ideas?

Many thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I've took apart both keys and cleaned the boards with electrical contact cleaner and changed the batteries, as well as cleaning the ignition barrel on the car as well as possible.

I feel like it's something to do with not recognising the key because of how well it runs otherwise and the lack of effort to start when it shows the symptoms, but then I'm not sure!

Will have to wait til tomorrow for an update
 

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IF you suspect keys, look at the immobiliser light.
When car locked, slow, occasional flash.
Unlock and should see a rapid flash
Key in and should go solid red then off.

If key not being recognised, will continue to rapid flash
If handshake issue between modules on car, will stay solid red.
Either state will allow the car to crank but not to fire.

Having said that, I would be suspecting fuel feed.
You say 1.6 so I assume petrol?
When you turn ignition on (without cranking) you should be able to hear the fuel pump humming for a couple of seconds.
May need to be underneath or by back seat.
Can you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
IF you suspect keys, look at the immobiliser light.
When car locked, slow, occasional flash.
Unlock and should see a rapid flash
Key in and should go solid red then off.

If key not being recognised, will continue to rapid flash
If handshake issue between modules on car, will stay solid red.
Either state will allow the car to crank but not to fire.

Having said that, I would be suspecting fuel feed.
You say 1.6 so I assume petrol?
When you turn ignition on (without cranking) you should be able to hear the fuel pump humming for a couple of seconds.
May need to be underneath or by back seat.
Can you?
As far as I can see the key brings a solid red light which goes out on starting. I'll make sure that its me starting it up tomorrow and keep a close eye however.

As for the fuel pump, I hadn't thought of this. I just went to listen and with ignition on there is a fairly loud buzz from the rear under the car as I turn the ignition on, for maybe a second in length. I assume that means the pump is ok?

It did seem a different noise to the fuel pump in other cars Ive noticed, but then maybe its normal for this car and I havent been paying close enough attention when I'm in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Went and started the car this morning myself. Ignition on and I wasn't sure I heard the pump, so cycled the ignition and definitely heard it second time. Car started perfectly with no issues, ran fine as normal.

Wondering if its pump related, or whether messing with the keys has had a positive effect. Time will tell!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Starting fine today yet again. Looking like the keys/ignition barrel was the issue as no symptoms since I have cleaned both and replaced the fob batteries.
 

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TBH, cleaning keys or replacing batteries should not make a difference.
The immobiliser bit is passive, needs no power in the fob.
You may have done something with the contact cleaner on the PCBs?

Keep an eye on it, intermittent faults are a pain.
Just keep an eye on what the immobiliser light is doing and whether you can hear the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Right, I'm now at the point where hopefully there will be a definitive answer to this soon! Girlfriend got back from a 150mile round trip on saturday. Car has ran perfect since the last post. Sunday it won't start at all.

I was completely at a loss, so was the AA attendant when he arrived, so it's sat waiting at a garage for tuesday morning to diagnose further.

Crank and no start, immobiliser light going out on both keys, fuel pump confirmed priming and the car wouldnt run on easy start. Seemed like no spark, but no codes stored or any obvious faults, or even any small attempt at all to fire!

Feeling like an expensive do at this point 😬
 

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From other thread

You can use an old spark plug, connect it to any of the coils, lean it against car body and try to start.
If there is spark on the plug and the engine does not start, it means that you are not getting fuel to the engine.

Most common problem is crank sensor. Crystal inside it cracks and you sometimes have loss a of contact, possibly worse when it's raining. When there is no contact, engine can be cranking but the computer does not "see" that the engine is turning (dead crank sensor does not send any signals) and computer does not inject any fuel into the engine.
Crank sensor is cheap, it is located on the clutch housing screwed by only one bolt, you can change it yourself. Connector of, new sensor, connector on, no need for anything else.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Right, I'm now at the point where hopefully there will be a definitive answer to this soon! Girlfriend got back from a 150mile round trip on saturday. Car has ran perfect since the last post. Sunday it won't start at all.

I was completely at a loss, so was the AA attendant when he arrived, so it's sat waiting at a garage for tuesday morning to diagnose further.

Crank and no start, immobiliser light going out on both keys, fuel pump confirmed priming and the car wouldnt run on easy start. Seemed like no spark, but no codes stored or any obvious faults, or even any small attempt at all to fire!

Feeling like an expensive do at this point 😬

HOW have you confirmed FUEL PUMP is pumping
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Ok,
Can you try this.
Disconnect the battery, wait 10 minutes.
Reconnect the battery, see if it starts then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
He did try a battery reset as well which made no difference, probably left it for more than 10 minutes as he was on the phone looking for any extra ideas before he admitted defeat.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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get plugs out, see if they are soaked., or dry
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Issue solved: faulty crank sensor identified and replaced. No fault codes but on live data engine rpm showing as 0 when attempting to start. Nice quick fix and girlfriend back in her car 👍
 

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No codes because computer did not saw a problem. Every time you tried to start the engine and it wouldn't start, computer "thought" that you are just sitting in the car because the crank sensor was silent, it wasnt even signaling that someone was trying to start the engine.
Valid for all Renaults: with the first sign that the engine is hasitating on start, it does not start as usual, take off the da*** crank sensor and throw it far away.
Get a new one and put it on. Not OEM cost 10-20 euro and even those can last years.
 
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