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I had a few teething troubles while trying to fit my stereo, but now that it's complete, I thought I'd post this as it might help someone considering fitting an after-market stereo to their car. My car is a 1999 Renault Megane with the digital display in the dashboard and steering wheel controls. This guide will allow you to retain the steering wheel controls and the display, although the display will only show the time and temperature and not the radio station information. I believe some Sony stereos do allow you to keep the radio station display with the correct leads, but in my case I was fitting a Pioneer stereo that doesn't have that functionality.

What you will need: -

A "vehicle interface" to convert the wiring from your new stereo so that the connections in the car will plug in. I used an Autoleads one. If your car has the dashboard display, make sure you buy the interface that supports this.

The relevant stereo patch lead for your brand of stereo. Autoleads also make these.

A fascia adapter. Again, Autoleads make these in either grey or black. Neither matched up with the colour of my dashboard perfectly, but the black was closest. You could spray the fascia if you want the colour to match perfectly.

A Torx 20 screwdriver.

Some electrical tape and scissors.

A medium sized flat-bladed screwdriver.

Keys to remove the old stereo. These can be bought on eBay for a pound or two.

A cloth.

An ISO to DIN converter, assuming your new stereo has an ISO socket for the aerial. These are £4.99 at Halfords, or about a quid each on eBay.

Assembling the leads: -

Before you start, it's a good idea to connect up the wiring block that comes with your stereo to both of the Autoleads cables/wiring blocks.

Removing the old stereo: -

Bend the removal keys so that you can get one end of each key in each hole of the old stereo. Make sure they're fully inserted, then pull the keys outwards and pull the stereo out and disconnect the wiring at the back. There's also a plastic surround that just unclips, so remove that.

Fitting the fascia and stereo cage: -

The fascia just clips into the hole. The black Autoleads one won't seem to clip in at the top at first, so what you need to do is push the fascia in so that the two bottom clips snap into place, then push the two upper clips upwards and you'll eventually hear them clip into place too. The fascia should now be held firmly in place by the four clips.

Remove the cage from your new stereo and slide it into the fascia. Using your flat-bladed screwdriver, bend some of the cage's metal clips outwards on all 4 sides (if posssible). That keeps the cage in place and it should be nice and sturdy.

Removing the top of the dashboard: -

This is a lot easier than it sounds. Just pop off the speaker covers on each end. They should come off easily, but you can use the flat-bladed screw driver to lever them off if necessary. You now need to remove a single Torx 20 screw from each end. It is the inner most screw on each side. Don't lose these! Drop the steering column down, then pull the dash upwards and towards you. It's held on at the front by some clips, so you'll need to lift the dash to get these clips to pop apart. Once you've removed the dash top, stick it somewhere out of the way.

Removing the clock display: -

The clock display is held in by 3 Torx 20 screws, so remove them and keep them safe. Pull the clock display forwards and you'll see the connectors that plug into the back. Disconnect the red plug from the display. Take your Autoleads wiring and you'll see that one of the cables is quite long and has a red socket on the end. Feed this in through the hole where the stereo fits in, and up the right hand side and then plug the red plug from the clock display into the red socket. You can now screw the clock display back into place, but leave the top of the dashboard off for now, just in case there's a problem.

Fitting and testing the stereo: -

Plug in the cables into the back of the stereo. There's the main wiring block, the remote control jack and the aerial lead. You'll need to use the DIN to ISO converter to get the aerial lead to plug in. Check the wiring to make sure there's no bare wires or exposed metal connectors. If there is, insulate them well with tape, or you could end up blowing a fuse. Once you've done that, you can now fire up the stereo to see if it works!

If the stereo doesn't work, you'll need to re-check all of the wiring. If it does work, test the steering wheel controls to make sure they work and make sure that the clock display shows the time and temperature. Tune the stereo into a channel and store it. Now, turn the ignition off for a few seconds, then back on. If the channel that you stored on the stereo is no longer stored, you'll need to switch the position of two wires. On my stereo, these wires were red and yellow and they were the only ones designed so that you could disconnect them at the middle of each wire, enabling you to swap them easily. Check the installation instructions that came with your stereo for more info, but don't swap any wires at all if you're not 100% sure which ones to swap. Once you've done that, store a channel again and see if the setting is retained once you switch the ignition off and on. If all is well, you're nearly done!

Now comes the tricky part, at least in my case. You'll need to try and fit all of the wiring into the space behind the stereo, so that the stereo will fit in. This took quite a lot of trial and error for me as there was one large plug that kept getting in the way. In the end, I used the end of a thin wooden spoon to poke the plug backwards and down into the space behind the stereo, as the space was too small to get my fingers in there. If you do something like this, do not use a screwdriver or anything metal in case you cause a short. Once you've got this sorted and the stereo is in, you're almost done.

Re-attaching the top of the dashboard: -

Give the dashboard top a good wipe down with the cloth before you fit it back in. Just slide it into place, then push down at the front to reattach the clips and screw in the 2 Torx 20 screws. Now just pop the speaker covers back on and you're all done!

I'd say it took me about 45 minutes in total and it would have been less than that if I hadn't had problems getting the wiring to all fit in behind the stereo. Also, I did not notice that a metal connector in the middle of a wire had become exposed and that caused a short that blew a fuse. Not a major issue thankfully, but this can be avoided by not rushing and checking over the wiring.

I hope it's OK to post this and I hope someone finds it useful. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cheers bud, just what I need I too have a 99 Megane and i'm about to fit a stereo in, this will come in very handy.:d
No worries mate!

I just realised that I missed a bit. You obviously need to connect the cables in the car to the Autoleads interface! lol. In my car there were 3 plugs - a black and brown one that were a similar shape, and a black one that was thinner with 5 wires coming out of it. The similar black and brown ones plug into the Autoleads interface and the plugs are shaped so that you can't get them mixed up. The thinner black one isn't needed.
 

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I just fitted an aftermarket Sony Stereo in my car, but I have 2 problems:

1) The fascia I have doesn't seem to fit? its Autoleads part number FP 08-00G-H which seems to the the same as the Autoleads website link: http://productfinder.autoleads.co.uk/products.aspx?m=RENAULT&f=MEGANE&id=1140&PIDs=17071,17049,17044,17077

2) I used the leads that came with the Sony Headunit but when I turn off the ignition it loses the radio presets and also the time, how do I get a permanent live to the stereo? as this is really annoying!

Thanks for any help
 

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I just fitted an aftermarket Sony Stereo in my car, but I have 2 problems:

1) The fascia I have doesn't seem to fit? its Autoleads part number FP 08-00G-H which seems to the the same as the Autoleads website link: http://productfinder.autoleads.co.uk/products.aspx?m=RENAULT&f=MEGANE&id=1140&PIDs=17071,17049,17044,17077

2) I used the leads that came with the Sony Headunit but when I turn off the ignition it loses the radio presets and also the time, how do I get a permanent live to the stereo? as this is really annoying!

Thanks for any help
It's ok now, sorted this:

1) Facia now fits, I needed to remove the old plastic instert before trying to fit it! doh

2) used the new autoleads I got from Halfrauds yesterday and all ok now

:d
 

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Hi everyone, I have a problem with my steering wheel controls on my 2008 Megane 2 .
I have fitted an Erisin Android Stereo with Canbus Decoder box ( it’s supposed to be Plug and Play) and the Steering Wheel Controls works perfect when the Car is switched off , But when I start up the car the SWC Stop working , and I have to switch off the car and get out and lock it , then wait about 15 mins then unlock the car and then the swc will only work with the ignition on but stops working every time I start up the engine 😡😡😡 PLEASE HELP 🙏🙏 this is driving me crazy , any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance 👍
 

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WOW you picked an old thread here to ask your question

Normally if the steering wheel controls do not function or function wrongly, it means that power was supplied to the CANBUS box before the steering wheel controls were connected, the CANBUS adapter when powered up originally would have searched for everything attached to the car, it would have not found the sterring wheel controls, as they were not connected, when the search has been done it saves it to memory and WILL NOT search again until forced to do so.

you could try leaving all the cables connected to the head unit, like the CANBUS adapter and the steering wheel controls, just disconnect it all from the cars power supply, so in essence disconnect after the CANBUS adapter, leave everything disconnected for about 30 minutes, then reconnect it to the cars power supply and see whether it sorts itself out.

Also check in the instructions whether the RED and YELLOW wires need to be crossed on your car, if so check to see if you have done it
 

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Hi, thanks for your reply, I disconnected the power to the stereo And left it for over 30 minutes as you said And still not working when I start up the car , I also checked the instructions and I crossed the red and yellow wires but still not working 😩 have you any other thoughts on what might be wrong ?
 

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No afraid not, did the steering wheel controls work properly with the old stereo? if so then thats not the problem, what make of CANBUS adapter did you use because its either that at fault or the head unit at fault, as it all worked before the changeover
 

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I’m useing the Canbus box that came with the stereo (Erisin) I also ordered a new power cable and new Canbus box direct from Erisin and still not working, everything was working perfectly with the original Stereo so I’m completely lost on how to fix it
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum, I let the Dogs out
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please forgive my cynicism, but I have had a look at the Erisin website and they do not do a CANBUS decoder for Renault Cars

 

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Check our Erisin model ES7913M and see photos as that’s the exact stereo I have , and let me know what you think, thanks 👍
 

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Hi, I have just had a look and obviously they package the CANBUS adapter ( car specific) with the Head Units, so in that sense it should all work, I would email their customer services or speak to them on the phone and ask them if they can help, unfortunatley I do not know the internal workings of CANBUS adapters, therefore I cannot tell you exactly what is wrong, just the diagnostic steps, which you have carried out to see whether we could fix the problem ( known problem with CANBUS adapters), it is now down to the manuafacturers to help out on their own product , sorry for not being able to help any further.
 

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Thank you so much for all your help and advice I really appreciate it, I will contact Erisin and see how it goes, if I get it sorted I will post the fix on here .
Thanks again, stay safe , kind regards.
 
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