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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Hoping for some help please. I've had an issue with the coil light being permanently on (the one that should clear after turning the key in the ignition for about 5 seconds before starting), it makes the car (2001 Mk2 Clio 1.5 dCi) difficult to start, usually 3 or 4 attempts from cold.
The previous owner advised me of it when I bought the car in 2013 and having changed various things to fix it just keep clearing it using a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter and Torque.
My battery died during lockdown and after that the OBD2 adapter stopped working, so I bought another and that didn't work either. I asked my garage to test with a proper SnapOn OBD2 reader and that wouldn't work either suggesting an issue with the OBD2 socket or wiring I'm thinking.
The suggestion was to look at fuses/relays and having found a useful site for fuse diagrams I'm hoping I've worked out what is what. I pulled the relays up and the fuses all looked fine but can't tell with the relays. I considered whether I could try anything there. I checked in the fuse box on the passenger side as you open the door as well and they're all fine as well.
I considered I may need one of those devices that can see what might be the issue with the actual OBD2 connector maybe?

Font Automotive lighting Gas Symmetry Automotive tire
Font Parallel Urban design Slope Engineering
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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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YOU have deffo been able to use Bluetooth and torque on this CAR?
its in the inside fusebox of the car
Post a picture of your fusebox and someone will point it out
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi ours2012,

Yes the Bluetooth EM327 adapter (one of those blue ones you get cheap off eBay) has been working fine for years, I liked the low profile as I could put the cover on. I could see all sorts of things in the app such as revs, coolant temp etc. as well as being able to clear the fault light easily with it (which would then come back on after 200 miles or so)
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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The two marked are diagnostic socket
But if central locking working then the 5amp is ok, and if everything else seems ok
As in brake lights and instrument cluster then the 15 amp fuse is also ok
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The two marked are diagnostic socket
But if central locking working then the 5amp is ok, and if everything else seems ok
As in brake lights and instrument cluster then the 15 amp fuse is also ok
Many thanks ours2012 :) I'll check those out and maybe just replace as they looked ok visually when I systematically pulled all the fuses out from there.
My driver's side electric window seems to be going down ok again now though, it seems one thing breaks and another thing suddenly starts working!

Also, apologies I managed to select an image of Professor Yaffle and attach it to my original post which was probably a little confusing.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Would it be worth be spraying contact cleaner in the OBD2 socket or fuse/relay sockets? I could clean the pins on them with iron wool or something possibly?
All the lights and Central locking are ok otherwise
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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If fuses are good then its a wire somewhere

HAVE you done anything to the car
ANYTHING since the last time you had OBD connected AND I mean anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If fuses are good then its a wire somewhere

HAVE you done anything to the car
ANYTHING since the last time you had OBD connected AND I mean anything
I've had a think but can't think of anything. I wonder if it could have been something from the MOT in January maybe. The car has sat stationary mostly and rarely used during lockdown. I had to get it jump started once and a few times have used a charger on the battery. Other than that nothing else I can think of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Unsure if related but it wouldn't start when I went to leave work today. The engine turned over as I turned the key but only for a couple of seconds. Sometimes I would turn the key and just get a click. I had to call out my breakdown cover and they pointed out the red immobiliser light stayed on. The other thing was that the coil (glow plug) light that is normally on all the time wasnt on at all.
Wondering what might have happened...
It did seem like it was the immobiliser as it didn't turn the engine for more than a couple of seconds, normally it would keep doing it until turning the key back.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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running now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sadly no, need to see what the garage says tomorrow. Have just read the compilation of possible reasons for Clio starting problems on here too. A few ideas in there. Hoping my garage can get the obd2 socket working again in the process.
At least I found ecus (if the issue) are much cheaper now than I thought. About £15-30 on ebay.
 
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