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clio 1.4 16v mk3 2006 petrol---oil light was coming on with stop light-went off after about 10-15 seconds--was doing it fairly frequently----mechanic removed sump and examined pump-looking for blockage in gause-none there(he just shone a very bright torch in gause)-oil remaning in sump(after drainage) did not contain any contamination he could see----checked chain -okay----replaced sump and new oil and filter-----he also replaced new oil sensor in engine block above oil filter-----------he didnt replace oil lever sensor------not sure what its for but he just said it will be okay--------one week later it has started again- but more frequently-called with him and now he says(off top of his head he didnt look at it again) it needs a new pump-----i thought why did u not say this when sump was off-----he says its a big job to replace pump(even though i always get him parts)-i have to take him at his word on this-some one here will know if this is correct--------i asked about the level sensor if it could cause this if it was faulty and he just dismissed this-------could it be anything else? other than the pump or the sensors causing this?-oil checked every morning -not losing or using a drop------------would appreciate any advise on this-he said 4-5 hours to replace pump but it only took him 15 minutes to drain and remove sump(with power tools) as i was in garage bay with him when he did it last time-----any help or advise very welcome thanks in advance
 

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i have very little mechanical knowledge but he didnt check oil pressure at all------im sure of this as i was there from start to finish about 40 minutes in total-not sure how u do it or what gauge they use but he only did what i reported on-he never mentioned oil pressure at all
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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My issue with the story is that it reads as much as an electrical fault...say a worn wiring loom that is occasionally shorting.... as a faulty oil system.
Without sticking a pressure gauge on the system and seeing if the pressure is dropping to low levels that would trigger the warning, anything is guessing.
 

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Is the oil light coming on while driving or while idling? Hot engine idling on tickover, what is the light doing? Does it go out quickly enough when you start the car. Reason I ask is that IF the oil pressure is failing it is going to be lowest with a hot engine on slow idle. If your light doesn't represent this then I am with DD. The level sensor is also a warning system for checking oil level in the sump. If the level is low you will get a "Low Oil Level" warning, or similar. That shouldn't cause a "Stop" warning.
 

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Is the oil light coming on while driving or while idling? Hot engine idling on tickover, what is the light doing? Does it go out quickly enough when you start the car. Reason I ask is that IF the oil pressure is failing it is going to be lowest with a hot engine on slow idle. If your light doesn't represent this then I am with DD. The level sensor is also a warning system for checking oil level in the sump. If the level is low you will get a "Low Oil Level" warning, or similar. That shouldn't cause a "Stop" warning.
[/QUOT-------------it comes on only when driving never on idle-------it bleeps twice and both oil and stop light come on and stay solid for no more than 20 seconds(sometimes it goes out straight away) and then go out but its happening more frequently now-it used to do it maybe once a week over 300 miles or so now its about every 10 miles or so--------mechanic adamant new oil pump needed-----not losing or using a drop of oil checked each morning when cold-----i will ask him about pressure test-i watched video of same on youtube-thanks
 

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I think DD will be proven correct again. If it doesn't come on when idling then the engine and pump are most likely OK. Unless the oil pressure is randomly escaping elsewhere (PRV is always a possibility) the fault is most likely electrical. Why not fit, either permanently or temporarily, an oil pressure gauge. They were once common on cars and easy enough to fit (there are threads on here I am sure)
 

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I think DD will be proven correct again. If it doesn't come on when idling then the engine and pump are most likely OK. Unless the oil pressure is randomly escaping elsewhere (PRV is always a possibility) the fault is most likely electrical. Why not fit, either permanently or temporarily, an oil pressure gauge. They were once common on cars and easy enough to fit (there are threads on here I am sure)
i think ill ask him about fitting an oil pressure gauge and c what he says as i think hes not 100% sure himself--he has been chasing a emmissions(flashing yellow light only when car idling) problem in same car for me for nearly 2 months--throttle body---pencil coils-plugs-4 new seals on inlet manifold also a new gasket seal on part of engine above where oil filter is-ignition coil-all replaced but still flashing yellow light only when car idling-goes off and stays off when excelerating---------he has a big diagnostic machine-misfire on cyclinder3--thats the same reading all the time-he cant find fault----hes now to consult renault mechanic to c can he throw light on what problem is-----i suggested to him faulty exhaust valve but he said he did smoke test and it was ok-car due mot next month and this is a failure-thanks
 

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--------he has a big diagnostic machine-misfire on cyclinder3--thats the same reading all the time-he cant find fault----
The only other thing not mentioned in that long list is it might be worth changing the spark plug on that cylinder.
 

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Two random faults that are not readily identifiable and have not been cured by swapping out the usual suspects ?
I'm getting more convinced of a wiring loom issue.
Which is not the sort of thing that is easily found but wobbling wires and connectors, cleaning connectors into ECU, making sure no signs of green corrosion on connectors, checking earth points are good.... just some of the common items that can cause havoc.
 

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The only other thing not mentioned in that long list is it might be worth changing the spark plug on that cylinder.
4 brand new ngk fitted at-very start of problem with 4brand new pencil coils which where not needed as a friend got them tested in a place he works beside which fixes the diesel ones-they tested them for him with a meter free of charge
 

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Two random faults that are not readily identifiable and have not been cured by swapping out the usual suspects ?
I'm getting more convinced of a wiring loom issue.
Which is not the sort of thing that is easily found but wobbling wires and connectors, cleaning connectors into ECU, making sure no signs of green corrosion on connectors, checking earth points are good.... just some of the common items that can cause havoc.
ill suggest this to mechanic on wednesday and possibly c can i get an auto electrician to have a look as i have spent over £280 on parts and labour for emmissions light problem-not fixed(and lot of parts clearly not needed) and he has admitted hes baffled-he was to seek advise from renault mechanic he knows by then on both problems thanks
 

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4 brand new ngk fitted at-very start of problem with 4brand new pencil coils which where not needed as a friend got them tested in a place he works beside which fixes the diesel ones-they tested them for him with a meter free of charge
If you still have the pencil coils I'd be inclined to fit a new one the No3 regardless in case the existing one is only displaying intermittent problems which the meter may not have detected.
 

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If you still have the pencil coils I'd be inclined to fit a new one the No3 regardless in case the existing one is only displaying intermittent problems which the meter may not have detected.
mechanic did this last week but to no avail thanks
 

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A thought, could be totally wrong but easy enough to check.
Some earlier Clios had a metal shield behind the ECU and this could (did) dig into the loom, causing problems.
I wonder about yours ?
 

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My scenic 1.6 16 v petrol 2002 model had the emissions MIL light on permanently. For the MOT I did have a fooler fitted and even this did not keep it off. The light would come back on after about a week but it was off long enough to get it through an MOT if it was reset a day before the MOT.
It has always passed the emissions test even though it was showing an emissions fault.
Last year though I gave it a dose of Wynns Petrol Clean 3 Extreme a couple of weeks before the MOT and then reset the Mil light the day before. The Mil light has not come on again and the bulb has not failed, it lights on the start up sequence.
Worth giving a go, if you think it might be fuel related, it also increased the mpg by 10%, went from 34 mpg to 37.5.

To fit an oil pressure gauge the oil pressure sensor on the engine needs to be removed and a pressure gauge fitted in its place. I suppose in theory a "T" fitting could be put there and you could have both the gauge and the original sensor.

:(
 

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Ignition on and engine not running ...............

See the oil light?

Take wire off the oil pressure switch and short it to the engine .............. oil light off?

If it happens like that then you can leave the short there and fiddle with the wiring loom and see if you can make the oil light come back on when touching a certain part of the wires................... since you also seem to have driven quite a way like this already, short the sensor and make a secure connection to the engine. Go take a drive - oil and stop light still coming on?

Are you 100% sure the oil pressure switch has been replaced? .............. and if so was it replaced with one having the same closing pressure specification?

I see a real funky range of sensors available with specs ranging from 0.15 to 0.9Bar ................
 
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