Independent Renault Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello I have a 1991 2.0 espace GTS carb not injection.
It would not heat up at all so I assumed the thermostat was sticking open so I went to change it but there was no thermostat there. Before I changed it I noticed the coolant was brown so i flushed the system and put the new thermostat in. My problem now is that it is overheating slightly, it is constantly close to the 3/4 mark (after warming up). In traffic it goes up towards the red. Even out of town on a run it stays up by the 3/4 even letting it freewheel down a 2 mile hill with the engine running. I checked the fan and they weren't cutting in so I bypassed it to a switch and its still at 3/4 with the fan running. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,145 Posts
Hello & Welcome to the Forums.

I'm sure someone will be able to assist with your post shortly.

Regards

Ottoman
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
sounds like the reason the last owner left the thermostat out.

When you flushed the system did it remove lots of sludge/[email protected] and did you flush both the radiator and heater matrix seperately? as well as the block?

only other thing I could think is that theres still some air in the system. Are you happy you bled it all out?

Scott.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
43,291 Posts
Overheating espace

Check for air locks first. After the engine gets hot - does the temperature drop when you switch on the fan's? Does the heater give out any heat.? If not - it looks very much like a blocked radiator It seems this car has a history of overheating as someone has removed the thermostat. Additionally either the switch/s have failed or the hot water can't get through the radiator to activate them. You could try removing the radiator and taking it to a radiator specialist and depending on the conditon he may be able to clean it internally. But as radiators age - corrosion tends to be a big prob., and any attempt to clean may cause total failure. One other posibilty is that the impeller on the water-pump has failed - thereby the water does not circulate properly.:) Let us know what happens!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys,

When I had another look I noticed that there was a split in the header tank and water was escaping. I have now replaced the header tank there is a slight improvement but I have now noticed that there is water leaking from the bottom of the water pump. I'm going to change this tomorrow.
If that doesn't work then I think It is a new rad.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
30,789 Posts
A couple of weeks ago my daughter returned from a trip saying the temperature gauge had stopped working in her Fiesta.
I changed the sender unit purchasing a generic one from a motor factor, previously with the old sender under normal driving the gauge never went past the quarter way mark now its almost on the three quarter mark yet the car drives normally with no problem, obviously this is because of the calibration or lack of, the sender. Maybe your previous owner did the same and flapped when he saw the temperature gauge rise beyond normal & removed the thermo.

TBH I'd just have a quick look at the sender to see if it's new before spending good money. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
After taking the pump off I found that it when it had been fitted the previous owner had used silicon with the gasket and it was leaking between gaps in it. I cleaned the faces and fitted the new one and filled it up and it all looked ok BUT now I have a new problem to remove the water pump, the cam belt had to be removed I made sure that both pulleys were not touched but when I went to start it, it wouldn't start and it looks like the cam belt has slipped. I have taken it back off to re-align the cam and crank but although there are marks on the cam and crank pulleys there is nothing to line them up with on the engine. Arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Can anyone help please?
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top