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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone.

I'd like to start by saying thanks for reading this thread. Please watch this video and give advice:

Novice mechanic here; I am trying to replace wishbones and drop links on both sides of my Renault Scenic mk 2

Problem 1.The nut which holds the supporting bar for the front bumper has rounded off and I therefor can't get it off and get access.
Problem 2. The bolt which is attached to the drop link is turning with the nut.

Please watch the video and offer any advice you have. Many thanks for your time.
 

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Premium Member
Grand Scenic 1.6 2007
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4,342 Posts
Get some penetrating fluid on to both of them. If you don't have anything like WD 40 or 3in1 you can use a mixture of kerosene and nail varnish remover. Let it act for a few hours. The drop link screw has a hole that is supposed to be for a tool like a hex key or Torx bit to counterhold and stop the thing turning as you unscrew the nut. The subframe nut might be easier after a soak. You could try forcing on a spanner the next size down. Failing that a locking pliers of some sort and or a tap with a chisel could be enough to get it started. Be patient. If you have a six point socket you might find that the nut is not as rounded as you think.
I've just replaced both wishbones and didn't need to open the droplink.
Grand Scenic II 2007.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok cheers for the advice

I will spray the nuts and then I'll report back how it has gone when I get time to re-attempt it in between work ?
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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As Brenda says, Hex sockets (six sides) are wonderful inventions.
Or if you have any imperial sockets often they are a fraction of a size smaller and can be hammered on.
Or this sort of thing does work, I know the Irwin ones are solid, there are cheaper versions around you may want to try, no idea how good they are
And don't forget that heat and a few good smacks with an 'ammer often helps.
Final resort is hacksaw, disc grinder or a Dremel.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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That link arm is now tucked,, IT WILL knock ,you now need to tighten it up first, clean the thread with a wire brush, and back and forth with the nut to get it come off do the same for the bottom nut holding lower link arm knuckle on
Got any stilsons Mole grips, ???????

The bottom one,, subframe,, can you not undo the Top one and allow all that bracket to come down with the subframe
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That link arm is now tucked,, IT WILL knock ,you now need to tighten it up first, clean the thread with a wire brush, and back and forth with the nut to get it come off do the same for the bottom nut holding lower link arm knuckle on
Got any stilsons Mole grips, ???????

The bottom one,, subframe,, can you not undo the Top one and allow all that bracket to come down with the subframe
ok cheers it has been knocking for a few weeks now which is why I checked.

will it be ok to drive for a day or two before I can change it?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Yes,,,,,, its tucked anyway, and the banging will do your head in..
So you are doing this because of a knock then. Would do the link arm first , and see if that cures it
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes,,,,,, its tucked anyway, and the banging will do your head in..
So you are doing this because of a knock then. Would do the link arm first , and see if that cures it
it had advisories on the MOT that the ball joints had play and the drop links had play, then not long after started hearing a knock, it is rare though only sometimes when full lock and on bumpy bits, might be getting worse though. Also during this I have found out the CV joint on the (right) drive shaft is split and has been spraying it's grease everywhere. So I will try and acquire one of those and then do it all the time same time. That's if I can get a part in this lock down!!! Is it best to replace both drive shafts at the same time?
 

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51 plate Laguna 2 1.6
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You can replace the CV joint boot separately, no need to do the shaft if the joint isn't worn. If it were it shouuld have been spotted in the MoT. There are CV boot kits.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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ok then
Well you know its tucked, so with a hacksaw cut through the centre of the rod that connects both link knuckles.
So its now in half, with a trolley jack bar/tube, place it all the way up to the knuckle, so the rod is inside the tube, and the tube is as close to the knuckle as possible, lift up, you will then pop the part that goes over the knuckle off ..
Clean the knuckle up, grip the knuckle ball with the mole grips , and you will undo it..
Just undo the bottom nut first , before you cut the rod,

This is the easy way . might not seem it, but unless you have baby mole grips you will struggle to get them over to grip the knuckle
 

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Premium Member
Captur 2017 1.5DCi EDC
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3,842 Posts
Does nobody use nut-splitters anymore. I still have two in my tool box and they are cheap and brilliant.

 
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