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Discussion Starter #1
Clio Mk4 DCI
Was going to try and program another smart key for the Clio as it only came with one. I have an Autel AP200 which should be able to program a blank transponder key. Purchased a new blank transponder key from a supplier on eBay "The Renault Man" who has 100% positive feed back.
So plugged in Autel bluetooth unit into OBD port, went into service functions, Immobiliser keys, key assignment..
Started the process and received the following message " Key Assignment The UCH has not been programmed. Perform the programming procedure for the UCH" Finish therefore closed that one.
Went to have a look what that procedure was "Program body computer" Assuming I could always cancel before anything done.
Next message "Program body computer Programming of the UCH immobiliser code is only possible if the UCH is blank. Have at least one card (for keyless vehicle) or a vehicle key to hand. If it is a keyless vehicle, remove the card, or switch off the ignition if it is a vehicle with key, then click NEXT. There was no option to abort at this stage.
Next screen. Message. "Enter the programming key below into Code Management with the VIN. Important, you have 60 minutes to enter the code provided. Do not disconnect the diagnostic tool." then a 28 digit code and an input box below.
Options OK or ESC. As was unsure what it meant hit ESC and came out of the program.
Scanned the car and got the following DF311 Transponder supply circuit. and now I can not start the car.
Key card will lock and unlock doors and when inserted into dash slot everything lights up on the dash as normal, press the start button, can here a click behind clove box but no start.

The only reference I can find for code DF311 refers to a DPF regeneration.
Desperate for any help.
Screenshot_20210211-135858.png Screenshot_20210211-140203.png Screenshot_20210211-141414.png Screenshot_20210211-140224.png Screenshot_20210211-141157.png
 

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Scenic II, 2004, K4M761, DPO
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The AP200 is doing what CLIP will be doing while registering a new key - even in CLIP you need those codes to supply the correct info at the time of registering a key else its not going to work ................ if you now screwed the pooch by not following the correct procedure I am not sure how you would go about getting life back into the animal................

I am going to guess you need a blank UCH and possibly an actual CLIP and most importantly A WAY OF PRODUCING THE REQUESTED CODES (from dealer only at this stage?)

Lets see if anybody else have actual experience with such a situation - I don't sorry
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Appreciate the reply LvR
Thing is I did not go into the procedure after reading the warnings, just exit the procedure. Therefore don't understand what I have done.
Don't take this the wrong way but I hope you are wrong.
 

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Scenic II, 2004, K4M761, DPO
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The thing is you actually WERE in the obviously timed procedure and ignored the instruction to not disconnect the dongle ..............

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The exact same warnings are present in CLIP and once you start the procedure you have to complete the actions by supplying the code within the 60 minutes .................

I have never had to deal with this situation of yours (interrupted update/program) on CLIP so I cannot tell you what the current status of anything is on the vehicle.

I would suggest removing the battery connections, leave it off for a about 10 minutes while you make sure the battery is properly charged, switch on the headlights, reconnect the battery, switch off the headlights, switch off the ignition and wait about 5 minutes, switch on the ignition without starting the engine and wait a minute, switch off ignition .................

After about 5 minutes start the engine (or then try) ...................

If this doesn't work then you are on your own wrt help from me because I just don't have experience with this situation and there is no manual for its recovery either
 

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Sorry, I can't help, but it's just this sort of thing that makes me not want to mess with it too much. We paid Renault £200 for a new proper key. I felt a bit ripped off but it did the job.
 

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Sorry, I can't help, but it's just this sort of thing that makes me not want to mess with it too much. We paid Renault £200 for a new proper key. I felt a bit ripped off but it did the job.
Yep - modern tools are quite powerful in a certain bad sense and its exactly this sort of experience that is often held up as motivation for not allowing 3rd parties to get involved in managing the brains of modern vehicles.

The AP200 is instructing the user, just like CLIP, to use the dealer level Code management tool in order to retrieve a reprogram "authentication" code ................. obviously if you don't have access to THAT you cannot ever complete your intended action (THAT BOTH AP200 AND CLIP HAVE ASSUMED YOU ACTUALLY WANTED TO DO AND INDEED KNEW ABOUT THE REQUIREMENTS)
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, see if it will start then.

Should not be able to remove the code, unless AP200 can virginise a key ( Cannot see how as its assigned and cannot be overwritten )
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I know what you are saying LvR, but I didn't initialise any operation. Tried the first step and got the message " The UCH has not been programmed. Perform the programming procedure for the UCH" I assume it meant could not do the key because of that. Did not disconnect anything, just moved out of that procedure 'SC015 Key assignment'. Then clicked 'SC004 Program body computer' just to see what it meant. Then got the second message telling me the UCH can only be programmed if it is blank. The UCH obviously is not blank as it is existing. Exited the procedure by pressing ESC, shut the program down and only then removed the dongle.
Can't see why it is telling me why the UCH has not been programmed.
All I was doing was following what others have done to assign a new key.

Thanks for jumping in 'ours'
I have tried the battery disconnection procedure with no luck.
As you say the UCH is a write once only unit but the AP200 says it is not programmed.
Didn't get as far as trying the new key.. I am only repeating the messages that appeared on the screen which I have posted as screen shots.
I am completely stumped and car is now stuck on the son's drive. Will probably have to tow it off tomorrow unless someone can come up with a solution. :(
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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PM me Andy
 

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My generic helpdesk suggestion is based on the old 'switch it off-street and on again' so have you tried starting the procedure again from scratch?
 

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Sorry, I can't help, but it's just this sort of thing that makes me not want to mess with it too much. We paid Renault £200 for a new proper key. I felt a bit ripped off but it did the job.
I've got one virgin key card from Aliexpress for 14 USD. With the help of DDT4ALL, Renault Pin Extractor and some Russian forums I was able to program it.
I also reprogrammed my ECU with updated Renault firmware (to get rid of an injection problem) which my local Renault dealer refused to perform.

Even though @Andrew Capp got unlucky, this would not discourage me from working on my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Still not fixed but I have been doing some more digging in-between the snow showers.
Tried the battery off and on again thing still no help.
Rescanned car and found the following.
ET181 Key allocated to the vehicle NO
ET180 Key code recognised by the vehicle NO
ET659 Transponder communication ACTIVE
ET674 Transponder communication YES
ET046 Engine immobiliser INACTIVE
ET182 Blank key NO
ET229 Injection immobiliser code ALLOCATED

DF202 Invalid UCH multiplex signals

Also the UCH still has the correct VIN number,

As we all know I am no expert at this stuff but to me that is saying the car is OK and the key is at fault.

Now can I reprogram the key or program a new key.?

This is what the Autel instructions have to say.
The IMMO service enables you to disable the lost vehicle keys and program the replacement key fob. It could be one replacement key fob or more, depending on your needs.

To program the replacement key fob(s)
1. Tap the IMMO KEYS after entering the SERVICE functions from the job Menu
2. Tap AUTOMATIC SELECTION or MANUAL SELECTION to acquire vehicle VIN information and tap YES to confirm.
3. Tap ERASE/PROGRAM ALL KEY FOBS in the IMMO function list after it is displayer. The list may vary for different vehicles being tested

To complete the key fob programming, you need to acquire the SECURITY CODE, which can be acquired through the SECURITY CODE READ function in hot functions,

Before programming please check and erase the fault codes.

If I am looking at this correctly I may be able to retrieve my existing key, if not should be able to program the new key.
Can't do it now as battery needs charging again as I have been faffing on for so long.

Would appreciate any thoughts. (y)
 

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My thoughts are dinna fash and call a locksmith.. what a situation to land yerself into.. :(
 

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Now can I reprogram the key or program a new key.?

If I am looking at this correctly I may be able to retrieve my existing key, if not should be able to program the new key.
Can't do it now as battery needs charging again as I have been faffing on for so long.

Would appreciate any thoughts. (y)
My thoughts are (and bear in mind that I've never done this) you can't make it any worse, so what have you got to lose by doing both those things, i.e. try to reprogram the existing key and/or try to program a new key.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Andy, have you managed to get the security code out of the system
If yes, then go for it
You can either try and program original ( Think that's tucked to be truthful)
Or you can try your new one
E faults are not DF code faults so you should be good to go
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Have not been able to get code yet as battery was getting low and I was starting to freeze.
Will try again tomorrow after I tow it back to mine. Easier to work on then.
 

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What @ours2012 said ....................

On the battery "getting low" - may I advise that the battery should be fully charged and on a powerful charger or supply the whole time you reprogram any computer on the car.

"Low batteries" often corrupt the reprogram process and have killed many a computer
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sorry to be a pain but I was just thinking, am I over thinking this and have I inadvertently confused everyone who is trying to help.
I admit I know very little about auto electronics but I have checked out what the UCH controls, such as.
1/indicators & hazards 2/front & rear wipers 3/door and window controls 4/door opening indicator lights etc.
Most of these all work except the ones that only work when the car is running.
We know the car will not start but when you insert the key card all the usual dash lights come on for the system check then extinguish, all but the engine light. I then get the message "PRESS BRAKE + START" can't quite remember the exact wording.
Would that not indicated that everything including the key card has been checked and passed?
When I press the brake or clutch pedal and press the start button I can hear a click from the area of the glove box fuse board. Sounds like a relay clicking.
I have checked the owners manual and that lists the fuses but does not say which fuse box, nor does it mention any relays. I have checked the Haynes manual and that does not mention fuses or relays, except what they do.
I could be just clutching at straws hear but I would appreciate some thoughts. (y)
IMG_20210214_105740.jpg
 

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Hmmmm
You may well have been confusing yourself and us.
If we take the diagnostics out of the picture, what you describe is that the card has been recognised and that there is an issue with the starter system.
Also should be noted that if the card code is not recognised, the beasty will crank, just not fire.
IIRC, the dash message is something like card not recognised but may be wrong.

Go back to basics.
Click in fuse box is likely the starter relay.
If you cannot hear a loud click from starter area and no crank then likely power feed to the starter or poor connection on the solenoid feed or bad earth.
Get your meter out and check the large fuse on the battery positive terminal...that is the power feed.
If that is okay, throw a jump lead from battery negative to solid metal on the engine block...that should bypass a bad earth.
Then it is get down to the starter and check the relay feed to the solenoid.
 
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