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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

This summer I started to have issues with the rear brakes on my car, a Laguna 2001 1.6.
This is what have happened:

- After changing discs and pads on all 4 wheels, the rear brakes started to get really warm after driving for a while, i.e. they don't release properly after braking.
- I screwed the piston in the calipers back to give enough space. --> Didn't help.
- I aired the brakes --> Didn't help.
- I greased the "gliders" on the calipers. --> Didn't help.
- I bought a repair kit to overhaul the calipers, greased up the piston again and changed sealing rings. --> Didn't help.
- I took of the handbrake cable from the arm on the caliper, to make sure it was no tention at all on that one --> Didn't help.
- I bough new calipers --> Didn't help.

So, now I don't know what to do. It seems strange though.
Have I missed anything? I really like the car and how it drives, but I don't enjoy spening so much money on it :)

I would be thankful for any help!

- Laguna owner from Norway
 

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Hi!

This summer I started to have issues with the rear brakes on my car, a Laguna 2001 1.6.
This is what have happened:

- After changing discs and pads on all 4 wheels, the rear brakes started to get really warm after driving for a while, i.e. they don't release properly after braking.
- I screwed the piston in the calipers back to give enough space. --> Didn't help.
- I aired the brakes --> Didn't help.
- I greased the "gliders" on the calipers. --> Didn't help.
- I bought a repair kit to overhaul the calipers, greased up the piston again and changed sealing rings. --> Didn't help.
- I took of the handbrake cable from the arm on the caliper, to make sure it was no tention at all on that one --> Didn't help.
- I bough new calipers --> Didn't help.

So, now I don't know what to do. It seems strange though.
Have I missed anything? I really like the car and how it drives, but I don't enjoy spening so much money on it :)

I would be thankful for any help!

- Laguna owner from Norway

*I'll write in norwegian since it's easier*

Hei!
Det er to ting som lager varme, det ene er et alvorlig defekt hjullager, det andre er bremsene.

Er du helt sikker på at glideflaten til klossene er rengjort grundig og smurt med enten kobberpasta eller monteringspasta? Det er det aller første du må kontrollere her. Klossene skal være veldig enkle å bevege på når caliper er demontert og kun bremseklaven er montert..

Der er også en "arm" på caliperet som beveges når håndbrekket blir betjent, vær helt sikker på at denne legger seg inntil anleggsflaten når håndbrekket ikke er dratt på. Det skal ikke mye til her for å drepe et caliper..

Gi et vink når du har fått sjekket klossene! :)
 

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I have seen the same thing on a few sales executives company cars, I will check with my fitter that is renault trained and get back to you ASAP
 

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Did you open the bleed screws when you screwed the caliper pistons back in?

I came across a similar problem on a Honda a few years back. It turned out the ABS distribution unit didn't like fluid being forced in the wrong direction. It is recommended nowadays to open the adjacent bleeder when retracting caliper pistons whether that be front or rear brakes.

Not saying that is your problem but worth considering.
 

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Did you open the bleed screws when you screwed the caliper pistons back in?

I came across a similar problem on a Honda a few years back. It turned out the ABS distribution unit didn't like fluid being forced in the wrong direction. It is recommended nowadays to open the adjacent bleeder when retracting caliper pistons whether that be front or rear brakes.

Not saying that is your problem but worth considering.


+1

Just remember that I've seen this once on either a Honda or a Hyundai a few years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hei RenBen1!
Takk for tilbakemeldingen.

Ja, jeg har pusset sporene der klossene skal gli og smurt med kobberpasta ja.
Som jeg nevnte i posten, så har jeg demontert håndbrekk-wiren fra armen på kaliper for å være sikker på at den ikke lager noe kluss. :)

Hmm...
Hører gjerne fra deg igjen hvis du kan tenke på noe mer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi madnoel10!

No, I didn't do that... Can that be the cause?
I asked a guy in my local Renault garage about that, but he said that should't matter...

But maybe you have a point, since the Haynes manual also tells me to open the bleed-screw when I turn the piston back...
Do you know what I can do about it or how to check if that is the problem?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Not to much fluid in the reservoir, have you checked...
If yes get it down to max level..
 

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Are handbrake cables slack when handbrake off?
Sorry, just read first post again, you covered that.

Other question, are pads moving freely?
Sometimes they are tight fit and when they heat, they jam.
 

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Hei RenBen1!
Takk for tilbakemeldingen.

Ja, jeg har pusset sporene der klossene skal gli og smurt med kobberpasta ja.
Som jeg nevnte i posten, så har jeg demontert håndbrekk-wiren fra armen på kaliper for å være sikker på at den ikke lager noe kluss. :)

Hmm...
Hører gjerne fra deg igjen hvis du kan tenke på noe mer.

Hei. Den er grei.. Da ville jeg gjort følgende; løft opp bilen på den siden det henger, forsøk å snurr på hjulet, så ser du om det ruller fritt før du demonterer noe som helst. Det skal være veldig enkelt å snurre det rundt.. Om det henger på, så tar du av hjulet og tar av caliperet, så setter du på igjen hjulet og forsøker å snurre på nytt og ser om det er forskjell.

Om det ikke er det, så tar du vekk klossene og forsøker å snurre på nytt. Jeg har på følelsen at det er klossene som lager trøbbel her altså..

Gjør du det slik kan vi stegvis finne ut hva som gjør at det henger.


Sorry for all you english speakers. I'm basically saying to take off caliper and then try turning the wheel to check if it's the caliper that's making problems, and then the same with the pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Are handbrake cables slack when handbrake off?
Sorry, just read first post again, you covered that.

Other question, are pads moving freely?
Sometimes they are tight fit and when they heat, they jam.
Hi!
Thanks for your reply!
Yes, the cable is taken of the lever, and I have grinded the places where the pads are fitting a bit + putting copper paste....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hei. Den er grei.. Da ville jeg gjort følgende; løft opp bilen på den siden det henger, forsøk å snurr på hjulet, så ser du om det ruller fritt før du demonterer noe som helst. Det skal være veldig enkelt å snurre det rundt.. Om det henger på, så tar du av hjulet og tar av caliperet, så setter du på igjen hjulet og forsøker å snurre på nytt og ser om det er forskjell.

Om det ikke er det, så tar du vekk klossene og forsøker å snurre på nytt. Jeg har på følelsen at det er klossene som lager trøbbel her altså..

Gjør du det slik kan vi stegvis finne ut hva som gjør at det henger.


Sorry for all you english speakers. I'm basically saying to take off caliper and then try turning the wheel to check if it's the caliper that's making problems, and then the same with the pads.
Hallois!

Setter pris på at du hjelper :) Takk!
Når jeg jekker opp bilen så går hjulet treigt. Ja, til og med når jeg fikk på de nye caliperene og bare skulle lufte systemet, så satt bremsene seg slik at det var vanskelig å dreie på skiva for hånd før jeg jekket ned igjen.

Når jeg tar av caliperen og klossene, så snurrer skiva lett. Når jeg skrur stemplet i caliperen litt tilbake og setter det på skiva igjen, så ruller det lett, helt til første gang bremsene blir brukt ordentlig, da setter de seg igjen.

Klossene passer bra, men er ikke originale. Kan det ha noe å si? Kan materialet i i selve klossene være årsaken? Det skal også sies at det er samme uorginale klossene foran (Skruvat), men der er det ikke noe problem.

Du bor ikke tilfeldigvis i Hamar-området? :)

(Short in english: The wheel is turning with friction when the wheel is jacked up. When caliper is taken off, the disc is turning smoothly. When I turn the piston back a bit in the caliper and fit it on the disc again, it turns smoothly, but when I apply the brakes again, it get stuck. Even when I fitted the new caliper and was bleeding the brakes, the brakes stuck to the disc in a way that made it hard to turn it witn my hands)

I still appreciate help.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Have you checked the calliper guides are free, ..
With the pads out, you should be able to move the calliper in and out.
Its possible. because the guide pins are further back than they were, are now sticking,,
If foot brakes were NOT ok before, then you will have had an issue getting the pistons back, If a fluid, piston issue,, Possibly signs of rust on the wheel, before you started, because of a sticking issue, and not a wear issue.
If just worn out, then now recheck guides.
Was one brake pad worn more than the other,,, guide issue, if both brake pads were worn the same, and getting hot, (rust sign) fluid issue.. as in piston, not retracting when pedal released, or flexi, collapsed inside and becoming a one way valve..
 

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Hallois!

Setter pris på at du hjelper :) Takk!
Når jeg jekker opp bilen så går hjulet treigt. Ja, til og med når jeg fikk på de nye caliperene og bare skulle lufte systemet, så satt bremsene seg slik at det var vanskelig å dreie på skiva for hånd før jeg jekket ned igjen.

Når jeg tar av caliperen og klossene, så snurrer skiva lett. Når jeg skrur stemplet i caliperen litt tilbake og setter det på skiva igjen, så ruller det lett, helt til første gang bremsene blir brukt ordentlig, da setter de seg igjen.

Klossene passer bra, men er ikke originale. Kan det ha noe å si? Kan materialet i i selve klossene være årsaken? Det skal også sies at det er samme uorginale klossene foran (Skruvat), men der er det ikke noe problem.

Du bor ikke tilfeldigvis i Hamar-området? :)

(Short in english: The wheel is turning with friction when the wheel is jacked up. When caliper is taken off, the disc is turning smoothly. When I turn the piston back a bit in the caliper and fit it on the disc again, it turns smoothly, but when I apply the brakes again, it get stuck. Even when I fitted the new caliper and was bleeding the brakes, the brakes stuck to the disc in a way that made it hard to turn it witn my hands)

I still appreciate help.

Den er god. Jeg bor dessverre 5 timer unna Hamar.. Materialet i selve klossen har ikke noe å si. Jeg fikk en ekkel følelse på at det er glideboltene dine som lurer oss her. Sjekk at de "glir" fint inn og ut. Det er de boltene som står inn i bremseklaven din med gummi på. De skal være enkle å ta inn og ut. Presiserer at det er ikke de korte boltene som er skrudd inn i glideboltene!

Viktigeste med klossene er bare at de er riktig type og at de ikke sitter fast.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Have you checked the calliper guides are free, ..
With the pads out, you should be able to move the calliper in and out.
Its possible. because the guide pins are further back than they were, are now sticking,,
If foot brakes were NOT ok before, then you will have had an issue getting the pistons back, If a fluid, piston issue,, Possibly signs of rust on the wheel, before you started, because of a sticking issue, and not a wear issue.
If just worn out, then now recheck guides.
Was one brake pad worn more than the other,,, guide issue, if both brake pads were worn the same, and getting hot, (rust sign) fluid issue.. as in piston, not retracting when pedal released, or flexi, collapsed inside and becoming a one way valve..
Thanks for your reply!
There were new guide pins that came with the new calipers, so i fitted them and greased them up.
The brake pads were worn totally down, almost to the metal before I changed them and the discs. They looked pretty much equally worned.
Can you explain more in detail what you mean by "or flexi, collapsed inside and becoming a one way valve."
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Den er god. Jeg bor dessverre 5 timer unna Hamar.. Materialet i selve klossen har ikke noe å si. Jeg fikk en ekkel følelse på at det er glideboltene dine som lurer oss her. Sjekk at de "glir" fint inn og ut. Det er de boltene som står inn i bremseklaven din med gummi på. De skal være enkle å ta inn og ut. Presiserer at det er ikke de korte boltene som er skrudd inn i glideboltene!

Viktigeste med klossene er bare at de er riktig type og at de ikke sitter fast.. :)
Ok, skjønner :)
Hmm...ok, jeg vet bare om de glidepinnene som skal smøres opp og som gjør at begge klossene skal ta samtidig på skiva, er det de du mener? De var nye med de caliperene jeg fikk, og jeg smurte de opp. Kopperpasta på caliperen på venstre side, og noe fett som fulgte med på høyre caliper.
 

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sorry missing something here,, you have had new callipers discs and pads,,,.
Before we all go around the bend with you ,,, why the new callipers?..
 

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Don't think it has been answered so.

Collapsed flexible hoses.
The internal walls can break up, collapse.
Nothing visible outside.
So when brakes are used, fluid pushes past the blockage but doesn't all return, trapping some and preventing the pads from fully retracting.
They act like a non return valve.

This could be giving you the problems you describe.

Flexibles collapse due to age and sometimes if they have been clamped to prevent fluid loss when working on brakes.
 
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